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ground wire....is this ok to do ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by whid, Aug 11, 2011.

  1. whid
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 452

    whid
    Member

    i have a 49 chev pu.350/350 combo...battery is in the stock location on the frame under the floor....i'm routing the battry cables and know i have to ground the battery to the engine....my question is ...to make this easy is it acceptable to use one of the starter mounting bolts to attach my ground cable to?.....if not what is acceptable or perferred..............whid
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    no, how about using a bolt hole in the back of the head?

    The starter bolts need to be tight, it's kind of hard to make them tight as they should be with a battery cable under them
     
  3. 1RuleRods
    Joined: Feb 10, 2010
    Posts: 18

    1RuleRods
    Member

    The wiring harness I used from Ron Francis recommended grounding to one of the starter bolts. Macr for a long ground because my battery was in the rear under the bed.
     
  4. NumbNutz
    Joined: Mar 11, 2009
    Posts: 319

    NumbNutz
    Member

    I would run it to one of the bell housing bolts then run another cable from that point to the frame using the same heavy gauge cable.
     
  5. whid
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 452

    whid
    Member

    trying to keep the cable as far away from the exhaust as possible.............whid
     
  6. Tripple G
    Joined: Oct 21, 2010
    Posts: 367

    Tripple G
    Member

    Agree with Squirrel. Find a spot on the engine block/bell housing, run a flat "braided" ground strap (sell 'em thru Summit/Jegs, etc.) to the ch***is and run your battery ground to a point on the ch***is as well. Make sure the metal surface is clean & free of rust. You can never have too many grounds. IMO
     
  7. I would recommend the bellhousing bolt also. I wouldn't use the starter bolts, not on a Chevrolet. Then I would also have a ground from the engine to the frame. The 3rd and final ground should be from the engine to the cab or body/firewall. This will confirm the ground for the main wiring harness and all the instruments/gauges. TR
     
  8. whid
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 452

    whid
    Member

    ok,will look for another spot...i got a pair of astro van cables at pull and pay... on the ground cable it has a fairly heavy wire (almost a cable itself) in addition to the cable....it has enough room to reach the frame, so if i can attach it there..bolt the cable to the block somewhere...i bought some flat braided ground straps at louisville,1/2" wide and 12" long....was gonna bolt them to the back of the head and attack them to the firewall somewhere.....is this enough or do i need to do something else as far as grounds go ? i bought some extra straps should i ground the bed to the frame also ?
     
  9. stuart in mn
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,822

    stuart in mn
    Member

    You can't have too many grounds on a car. :) My Bonneville came from the factory with four braided ground straps - two on the back end of the cylinder heads that go to the firewall, and two on the front end of the cylinder heads that go to the frame.

    The negative battery cable goes to one of the cylinder head bolts.
     
  10. whid, I dont have a turbo 350 handy, only Powerglides and sticks. The Powerglides have ears or big thick tabs of aluminum on the ****** cases, I use these if I cant reach the bellhousing for whatever reason. The idea behind all this is that the starter motor is the biggest draw on the system, so its generally regarded as best to get the battery ground as close to this high draw as possible. TR
     
  11. bulletproof1
    Joined: Feb 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,079

    bulletproof1
    Member
    from tulsa okla

    sbc have enough probs with starters,,id stay away from using those bolts ,,,,i have my battery in the trunk.. and i use a bolt on the back of the head..
     
  12. RHOPPER
    Joined: Mar 12, 2006
    Posts: 263

    RHOPPER
    Member

    I welded a bolt to the frame near the starter, under the battery tray. Ground cable from the battery to the bolt, then from the bolt to the bellhousing. Routed it that way to avoid the cable rubbing the exhaust. I like the back of the head idea and I'll take a look at that. I used one of the ground cables that has the 10 gauge pigtail and ran that to the cab.
     
  13. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I used one of the 4 bolts for the 350 tailshaft housing. That solved my no start when hot issue. Keep the battery cables as short as reasonably possible.
     
  14. Model A John
    Joined: Apr 24, 2008
    Posts: 1,771

    Model A John
    Member
    from wichita ks

    I use a starter bolt for a ground wire connection. It works!
     
  15. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,506

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    Don't forget to use star washers and clean the surface under the connections of any paint for better ground.
     
  16. Boryca
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 718

    Boryca
    Member
    from Detroit

    My opinion: there's no problem with grounding to the starter bolt. The copper end on the ground wire will compress only so far, so you'll be able to get it tight fine. You do have problems when you have to pull the starter, as the wire is just one more thing to move. As far as electricity is concerned, it doesn't care where you mount it, so long as it's a good clean ground.
     
  17. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,776

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    I had a big ground cable on my race motor that went right to the starter bolt. BBC with 14:1 compression and a stock starter (!). It lasted for 2 seasons of racing with no issues but I did burn out a solenoid after a couple hundred starts. I used a star washer on the bolt.
     
  18. I've seen bolts that have another thrtead sticking out of the top-like a stud with a hex on it about 3/4 the way down. You bolt up your item and tighten the hex like a normal bolt, then you can put a terminal on the remainng thread and just run a nut onto it- both stay tight that way.
     

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