1957 Ford 272 Y Block Is this bendix not retracting all the way or is this the way it is/stays? If the drive is junk I can only get the spring compressed about 1/2 of the pin size? Any help?
Any Idea on the removal I cannot compress the rear more than 1/2 the pin diameter Whats a good part number?
Drive MAY be OK as it takes the flywheel turnning faster than the drive for it to kick back to the released posistion. Open up the vise jaws about a inch and push the drive end against the jaws with your gut on the other end of the starter. A extra pair of hands will help. Those pins can be a right *** to get out BTDT !!
If you have a wire wheel on your grinder use it to spin up the drive in the direction that it ratchets, if your wheel is large enough you can spin the drive until it hits the right rpm and it will kick back. If you cant get it to kick back that way pull the pin and do the same with the drive spinning free on the armature shaft ( use a little oil on the shaft). Thats how we do it in the shop after bench testing when we send it back after rebuilding the starter. Hope this helps.
Bench grinder spins @ 3500 Still would not kick back...Any ideas? I cannot get the pin out of the rear....
1965-1970 Ford truck 330 starter will it work for example NAPA PART #44-9622 Will this work on a Y Block?
Replace the whole starter with a gear reduction type, it not only pulls way less amperage and spins faster but because it engages from the front it will have "new" ring gear teeth to engage into! They can be had for &125 or so, Google it.
You might try turning a bicycle upside down and having somebody pump the pedals while you spin the Bendix against the spinning back tire. That was a technique for starting tether car racers with glo-plug engines back in the 50's. The larger the wheel diameter the better.
Having trouble with my starter on a 272 '55 wagon. Did the Napa starter mentioned above work for you? Thanks Bruce
The Jalopy Journal
