Wisbone/Hair pin Angle?

I dont care for the engineering

but just out of curiosity..how much horse power are you expecting this set-up to hold up under?..its a legit question

you compare old henrys idea to yours..his idea only had to put up with 20 HP...and maybe at best 20FT LB of torque. and your idea is not an improvement on his by any stretch

your going to need to build this thing like a monster truck to keep that center support out of the dirt..and what ever else it may hit..
what is supporting that cross member from folding forward?..or aft?

The guys before that gave legitimate concern for this idea working, are not on here to bust your balls..they are on here hoping you will listen and learn as not to hear about another unfinished project, or worse a dead hot rodder from a suspension failure..
and yes I have built a few ch***is in my time, so this isnt smoke

If I were you I would spend some money on a ch***is engineering book

you say in your first post that you dont want a ch***is disaster...were trying to help you avoid that ..take it as constructive criticism..we dont want to get ****ed up either..or hurt someone else out on the road...

There are a **** load of Hot Rodders and HAMBers in CA. dont be shy, inlist their help. It makes this hobby that much more fun, when its done right.

I just got My next one on the road (my avitar)..and all my nice ch***is work paid off..the ***** handles like shes on rails.

Look at it this way..Were a small community and we care about our brothers, we dont want you to build something thats obviously unsafe

 

Sorry, but the whole thing looks a mess! Do some more research, there is so much info on how to do this properly. You just can't beat a properly set up ladder bar system. Might get more support over at the other site.

 

that crossmember looks really low. running hairpins under the rails is something i have never seen before. they are usually outside or inside the rails (maybe it is just the angle of the picture)

 

Man, By your comments you seemed destined to go ahead with this poor craftsmanship and design. You probably think that since you did all this work already and did no actually research on rearend geometry that you have committed yourself to this design. I am going to be very blunt here like I usually am. It looks really bad from an aestetic(sp) point of view. That forward mount looks horrible and the hairpins are too lightweight to be used as stated by others. Just because you have something that you got cheap at a swapmeet doesn't mean you should use it. You are looking at an accident waiting to happen. Horrible scrubline. Do yourself a big favor and cut out all this stuff and start over with the right parts. There is enough poorly built ratrods out on the roads as is. Why add yours to the mix? I wouldn't want to cruise down the highway next to you. I am not saying any of this is a derogatory manner. You asked. Here it is.

 

At the very least, you should brace the dropped down crossmember to help it withstand the forward and backwards loads being applied to it. Also raise the mounting points enough to get the things level. And if you are committed to using the hairpins, weld some sort of bracing between the tubes. You seem to be trying to make ladder bars out of them, and I really can't comment on how strong the front mount is, or how well it will articulate. But I would consider welding some sort of tube on the front end, and installing factory type spring bushings into the tube. That would give the thing more "give" to help articulate without binding. Also the torque arm sugestion would warrent consideration as well.
Good Luck with it.

 

I'd be most concerned with the strength of the hairpins and their ability to withstand the forces they'll see from the rear end. Remember, those 2 hairpins will be asked to transfer all of the power generated by the rear wheels to propell the vehicle. The way they are constructed and steeply angled (looking at them from the top), I can imagine them folding under those forces.

 

I just ordered some lower axle brackets so I can rebuild the crossmember and have a better angle and wont s****e the ground with an ugly mount. Im going to build a m***ive torque arm to take most of the rotational force of the rear end. This is why I always "tack" everything in place.I can't imagine these 1" hairpins are weaker then flimsy stock wish bones are they?

 

rrk, the WALL THICKNESS is or should be more of your concern than the size of the tubing. 1" means nothing, think about exhaust tubing. It could be 2 1/2" or 3" in diameter, but could NEVER be used in a structural application due to the rather minimal wall thickness. Do you know the wall thickness of the tubing? Is it D.O.M. tubing? These guys trying to help, myself included have quite a extensive backround in these builds and are simply trying to help. Please take some of our suggestions into consideration, that's all we ask. Best of luck with your build, TR

 

Stock wishbones do not handle applied torque. That is the task for the torque tube which is about 4 inches in diameter. The downward pointing bones will result in considerable torque steer from the rear. Not good and definately not fun on the highway. Race car suspension is designed for a very special application and predictable conditions. Sprint cars are frequently steered by torque and stager and spend a great deal of the time going sideways. What you propose for rear suspension will be very unpredictable and eratic. Every bump in the road will cause the car to dart.

 

You need to start over and do your home work, that **** is a mess, listen to what the guys are telling you. Do it right or suffer the consequences.



President US Chapters Goldchainers C C
Dallas, Texas Chapter

 

That **** IS a mess. Gee wiz

 

arent those for the front ? no torque there except brakes . i think you are going to wad them up .................... carefully !

 

Im not trying to be sarcastic here, but I stole this pic from another thread and this is what I had in mind. Is this setup garbage? will it not work? Im running a BBC with skinny bias ply tires that wont have a chance in hell of hooking up.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^ note torque arm. That said, I think the sprint cars you refer to are touque tube equipped.

 

Rice Rocket Killer had stated previously that a torque tube (parallel) was what he had in mind. (as in the pic above)
Please be congenial and ***ure him that the pic would have correct geometry if the wishbone mounts were triangulated with the U joint.

 

A torque arm would work if done correctly. The suspension shown in the picture will bind.

 

Adding a torque arm will help. but those hairpins won't be as strong as the bones and will likely fold up, or a clevis will likely break with big-block power behind it.

 

Dude... why ask if you're not going to take these guy's advice. They don't want you to die, much less hit one of use while driving.

You'll learn more by listening instead of telling everyone your setup is right.

 

****it,, go ahead with your plans and hopefully you just kill yourself and not some innocent folks.

tired of holding your hand and tired of being nice.

what you got wont work, no matter how many times you claim it will or no matter how much other **** you cobble into it.

so either shut up and listen to those that are trying to help,, or shut the **** up and go away.

either way I really dont care as your not anywhere close enough to hurt me or my family with your wicked cool death trap.

have a nice day.

 

A book that would help you, " Tex Smith's How to build Hot Rod Ch***is",
$22.95 . Shows several different approaches, lots of pics and pretty clear text.
A fellow named Steve Smith has several books that are on fabricating race cars that explain some of the angles, torque arms, forces etc that you need to consider.
Learn from somebody else's mistakes...Good Luck

 

Wow.. thanks for holding my hand and being "nice". I know that you are the authority on ch***is design and you know everything however there are many experienced builders who have built similar systems and pulled it off. Im am getting varying info from a ton of builders and trying to draw my own conclusion. Why don't you **** off and wish death on someone who gives a **** about your rants.

 

Which one of you two would like to explain to us how to calculate " instant center ". I would be safe to say, neither. Please dont pull that above at***ude in #52 on me, I'm trying to make you think and help you, nothing more. The set up in #44 is incorrect. TR

 

Thanks for the info rex! Ill look it up

 

I'm glad to hear you'll check out the book, good luck rrk.

 

My work is done here..

Im far far away from Citrus Heights. I doubt it would ever make it this way unless it was on a trailer,

so tell me..the engine is going to be a monster ..right?

500 HP with 525Ft lb torque..am i close?

 

That is indeed a tremendous resource. Another must-read is "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod".....by Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel. Lots of great tips.

 

LOL! I wont pull a #52 on you I promise.just try not to wish death on meAgain im not trying to be a smart *** here but what exactly in incorrect on the #44 suspension? I am getting SO much different info it's making my head spin.

 

And here is what happens when you THINK a set up like the one in #44 will work!

 

chop32 I think you are getting carried away, those cracks are only half way through!