Pull a nylon string in when you pull the wires through, that way if you need to add a wire later on it'll be there to pull the wire for you... maintenance electrician trick
Try Waytek for wireing supplies and bulkhead connectors. Other than that, this is a great thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here is a thread with a Vendor even http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=516757&highlight=waytek
A few more thoughts: a) If I were doing this, I might run a tube inside the frame (ideally plastic, something nonconductive just in case) but not bring the end out through the rail. Then put a cutout in (probably) the boxing plate for a Deutsch DT-series bulkhead connector (depending on where you put the cutout and the thickness of the material at that point you may want a doubler plate around the opening.) Then your body wiring at the front and light harness at the rear would just snap into the connectors on the frame. b) There's a number of sources for the Deutsch stuff these days, Batts Racing (deutschconnector.com) used to be pretty much the only game in town but it's getting broader now. Some vendors have minimum order quantities and etc. that can get sticky; pcsconnectors.com turns small orders around very quickly for the things they carry. Mouser.com and digikey.com don't carry Deutsch so far as I know but are an essential resource for other types of connectors (AMP, Delphi Weatherpack/Metripack/etc.) Also worth poking around on ebay. delcity.net and mouser carry an Amphenol-made clone that's a little cheaper, plug-compatible with the Deutsch connectors, decently made but obviously a different plastic, only available in a limited range of sizes. There's a few outfits to be careful of like onlinecomponents.com that don't seem to actually stock anything, you'll wait weeks. c) There's two flavors of terminal available for the DT and DTP connectors, a stamped split-barrel terminal similar to a Weatherpack/Metripack/etc. (and uses the same kind of split-barrel crimping tool) and a mil-spec solid-barrel terminal that uses a crimping tool usually found in aircraft applications e.g. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310339593836 Mine is an older Daniels AF8 with just the TH1A turret, guessing about 30 years old, paid $70 for it used. The solid-barrel terminals are more durable and a joy to work with but aren't as adaptable to situations where you're trying to stack multiple wires in a single terminal. The solid-barrel terminals are commonly used in other mil-spec applications and apparently can be found in large batches surplus, but it's a PITA to figure out all the part-number details... d) As far as running wires inside the car under carpet, etc - OEs do it all the time, the battery cable in my BMW runs right up the middle of the passenger floorpan. But it's all got to be properly protected, both physically and electrically. e) When the + battery cable has any distance to run I end up using a 175-200amp Mega fuse (Waytek, Del City, McMaster-Carr sell the fuses and the mounts) in the cable as close to the battery as I can. This is also typical OE practice these days; in fact, a lot of Audis have the exact same little Mega block you get from McMaster-Carr for $6, but with an Audi logo on it. Given what I know of Audi parts pricing they're probably asking at least $40 for it.
Thanks! That sure looks like some space age stuff to me, I did recognize the Allen wrench. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=310339593836
Do yourself a favor, and use something NON-conductive for your conduit. I'd also use the Deutsch connectors. Weather-packs will do the job, but not as well.
What's so bad about seeing some wiring on a car? Yea, lengths of cut up extension cord with wire nuts on the end have no place in your engine compartment but I actually LIKE seeing wiring if it's done neatly and cleanly. It can be just as aesthetically pleasing as any other aspect of the car. Use the appropriate style wire/connectors/loom/etc for the car and you'll be fine. Just leave the zipties and colored plastic loom in the toolbox, haha! On my latest roadster I ran cloth covered wire in the stock early Ford loom down the inside of the framerail held in place with some vintage wire clips. Anywhere the wires passed through a crossmember or edge, I slid a small section of rubber hose over them to protect against rubbing through. Like Frank says above, if the car is wired properly, it won't burn... it'll just blow a fuse if you have an issue. Definitely respect electricity, but there's no need to fear it.
x2 oldfart! we use it on all the heavy trucks we build for the railroad and have never had a problem with wires chafing and shorting out!
Out of sight and out of mind, that is my view. Can't hide the ignition wires on the 354 HEMI but the hood will be closed so that with be the only wire in sight if all goes well. I'm starting another thread on firewall wiring.
Seriously, if you run that trailer harness cord through conduit and achor it with an Adel clamp at each end there is NO WAY it will ever rub through. Where is all the motion going to come from on a street vehicle anyway? Desert race truck...maybe.
Great point, that and the fact that I'm almost 61, chances are I won't be alive when it is time to wire it.
they make little plastic bushings to keep the wires from getting messed up. honestly i think 1 1" emt would be overkill just looking it up really quick it looks like you could fit around 30 #14 wires in a 1" comfterably and still be code compliant haha (not that that even matters)
Out of sight out of mind, you think like a engineer. Out of sight out of mind, until you have a problem then you have to tear the damn thing all to pieces to troubleshoot.
Not at all, that is why all the wire will be inside a tube, with quick disconnects on both ends. If it burns up the fire is in the tube any you run new wire, paint and upholstery should be fine.
If it is fused, it would only pop a fuse and not burn. If a wire shorts and it is not fused, it will burn that wire up all the way from the source to the load. Fused properly and a wire cannot burn up.
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