OK, Here is my question, I have both 2 bolt and 3 bolt timing covers as well as 2 bolt and 3 bolt distributors, Which ones are better and why? I have a 2 bolt Harman Collins Dual Coil distributor and a chromed 2 bolt timing cover. Now I know that the distributor used is determined by the cam type. All the adapter plates I have seem are to bolt 2 bolt distributor to 3 bolt covers, why is that? Ever any need to go the other way??
Also who made these plates in the past? I have 2 hanging on the wall. The one to the left is a Harman Collins plate and the other seems home made. It is made of magnesium and is ultra light. Looking at it you can see where someone used a saw to cut it out. Any one ever seen one made from a block of magnesium before??
Several reasons the two-bolt distributor is the better choice. The two-bolt distributor layout lets you use the "crab" distributor which is MUCH easier to install and remove than the older three bolt. Parts are somewhat more common. The two-bolt distributor have the 11A advance mechanism which is much better (faster and quicker), than the old three-bolt 40B or 68A. The two-bolt uses a "remote" coil is gives you a lot of options in addition to being much cheaper than the three-bolt types. Unless you are some sort of purist who is seeking a totally restored car go with the two-bolt. Tom
So I have a cam that is an early regrind on a 32 core, what distributor should I use? What other parts do I need to hook the 2 bolt distributor to the 32 cam? Which timing cover should be used with a 32 cam regrind? Should I use a 3 bolt cover with an adapter or use a 2 bolt cover without the adapter? I would prefer to use the 2 bolt cover since it is chromed, but if it is not gonna work, Id like to know ahead of time.
Pre-'42 cams are longer than the newer ones, you need that spacer/adapter for the new style distributor to fit the older engine. The cover will fit on the engine, but the dist. won't bolt up due to the cam sticking out too far. You could maybe drill out the two holes in the adapter and use the 2 bolt cover with it, I'm not 100% sure that would work though.
This is what you use to make the 21A distributor marry up with the long cam, all parts in stock if interested call 518-861-5367 m-f 9-5 et.
My vote is to use the HC distributor, the chrome cover, and get a spacer from Spadaro for use with the long '32 cam.
Next question. The Harman Collins distributor uses vacuum for the advance mechanism. I am using an original Edelbrock "Sling Shot" intake with a pair of Lincoln Zephyr 91-99 carbs. Where do I run the vacuum from? What level (how much) vacuum should I expect to need for the proper advance on the HC distributor? I know that the ford Distributors, 49-53 are very particular in vacuum, are the earlier units just as sensitive?
No...this is a real distributor. The HC advance is all stock '42-48 Ford stuff. The vac on this is Mallory type, not an advance but a disc brake that slows rate of advance if you encounter pinging on acceleration. Take the vac system apart and see that the piston moves freely and that you have good leather against the disc...often you can just turn the piston 90 degrees. Slowing/limiting the advance curve is likely to be completely unnecessary with modern octane levels, so start loose: Turn the adjusting bolt out by hand (if you turn it all the way with a awrench you will probably pop the spring seat off of the bolt) until it stops, run it back in slightly...call that 1 1/2 turns, say. Lock it, worry only if you get more than a trace of pinging under hard acceleration or load. If you do, turn it down to suit. You need a small amount of drag on the brake to stabilize the movable advance plate/brake disc at low speeds. The setup is meant to use manifold vacuum.
Here is a picture of what I am working with. There is no internals yet but soon, there will be a 4 1/8 stroker in there.
Anybody know where vacuum should be pulled from when running 2 - 2 carbs for a Harman Collins distributor?
Manifold vac, a reasonable place to pull it would be side of the plenum right below the removable forked part of the manifold.
On a low rise OFFY manifold there is a port drilled about 1/2" below the top edge of the rear carb riser to carb flange. If you dont want to drill your manifold you can purchase one of those diecast vac*** plates that are used for a southwind heater and position it between one of the carbs mounting flange base and the manifold riser.
Bruce, I would hate to have to drill this intake. I have a plate that is between the riser and the base intake. I use this plate to mount my fuel distribution block and I have used it before to pull vacuum for the last motor this was on. But that was an 8BA and that didn't work because of reasons unknown (STUPID FORD 8BA DISTRIBUTOR). I will try that port and see what happens.
I am running a Weiand hirise on a flatty with a '42 distributor, and use a vacuum port that is right between two runners near the bottom of the intake. There is a very small trough between the two intake runners at this spot on the underside of my intake. I was discussing how much vacuum I was getting from this spot, and my numbers seemed to be fine for the distributor expert I was talking to. I was worried since it only pulls from two cylinders, not all of them. It looks like your manifold may have a small raised dot for this purpose on the right side, but it would easier if there was one on the left. Is there? PS: That engine looks NICE. A lot of neat (rare-ish) parts and chrome.
That is the spot used by Ford roughly 1934--39...they had vac ports run in between the pairs of ports on the left side, one at back feeding the wipers, one at front for the distributor. A little machined groove connected each pair across the hole so both were connected to both sides of the manifold.
Know what would make that engine WAY cooler? A GM HEI, a big ol' GM chrome one wire alternator, EFI, a rainbow sticker, and a boyfriend with an earring and a ponytail to ride around with you...Seriously, that is going to be a cool setup. What are your plans for the generator, chrome? check this out:
Richard D Forgive if I don't follow your lead with the boyfriend in the p***enger seat, it might work for you, I don't see it happening. Might work for you TEXAS folk, but not around here. Block and the rest of the accessories will be painted, contrary to many thoughts, there is such a thing as too much chrome.
Your extra plate is a perfect place to pull manifold vac for a 21A didtributor. '49-53 distributors CANNOT be run from manifold vac, and fact are barely workable when properly hooked up on a stocker.
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