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Dead spot in rebuilt Holley

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by B12Junkie, Aug 28, 2011.

  1. B12Junkie
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 6

    B12Junkie
    Member
    from Illinois

    Like the ***le says,freshly rebuilt 600 cfm(4160) on a 305 has a dead spot off idle. Air screws at 2 1/2 turns,floats set.Any advice?:confused:
     
  2. 52pickup
    Joined: Aug 11, 2004
    Posts: 833

    52pickup
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

    Are you sure you got the accelerator pump check valve thingy in the right way?

    This thing
    [​IMG]
     
  3. B12Junkie
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 6

    B12Junkie
    Member
    from Illinois

    No,saw it in the kit but never saw it in the carb.Is it under the check ball?
     
  4. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,561

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    I had that same problem with a Holley I had on a 350 in a Nova. Tried everything, even took it to a dyno and never could find out the problem. That was the last Holley I ever owned and that was back in 1972.
     
  5. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    The check ball under the acc pump and the red flapper do the same thing. It's "either/or", doesn't use both.
    There is supposed to be another check ball under the squirter too.
    Larry T
     
  6. LUMBERJACK 50
    Joined: Jun 15, 2009
    Posts: 56

    LUMBERJACK 50
    BANNED
    from upland ca.

    your air and fuel mixture screw's are to far out...for your app all you need is a 1 1/2 turn's out...they also have different size power valves or you have a faulty one to begin with. if the rebuild kit is old the power valve could be no good.
     
  7. B12Junkie
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 6

    B12Junkie
    Member
    from Illinois

    Thanks guys,first rebuild ever. I should have known I'd miss somethin!
     
  8. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 26,687

    Deuces

    Check and make sure you have a .015"-.020" clearance between the acc. pump arm and the pump cam lever at wide open throttle... You need feeler gages and a 3/8" and a 7/16" wrenches to make the the adjustment... Let us know how it worked out...
     
  9. the check ball is inside the accelerator pump casting in the primary blow. It is held in place with a br*** strip. The ball should be loose. Check the float bowl gasket accelerator pump hole alignment with the metering block. Check the metering block to body accelerator pump hole alignment. It may have the transfer pipe. The check valve under the accelerator pump discharge nozzle should be loose. Check the discharge nozzle openings for a restriction. For some reason some engines respond to the hollow accelerator pump discharge screw. Now the linkage: when you open the throttle slightly the arm riding on the plastic cam should move quite a bit to activate the accelerator pump arm. You can shift this plastic cam to another hole or flip it to make the linkage more responsive. There should be no slop or free play in the accelerator pump linkage. Open the throttle and check the distance between the pump arm and the adjusting screw. Push in the arm and a medium paper clip should slide between them. Adjust the screw for clearance. You also need to check for any vacuum leaks around the carb. Vacuum advance working?
     
  10. B12Junkie
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 6

    B12Junkie
    Member
    from Illinois

    Ran air screws in 1 turn and set accelerator arm.MUCH BETTER!!! Thanks alot guys!
     

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