I was just wondering if theres was ant truth to a 010 code motor info that you hear from alot of guys I have one that spun a bearing that Ill be bringing to the swap meet next month but I dont want to feed someone a line about it being better than another sbc if its not.
If it has a spun main you most likely have some interesting scrap iron. Those blocks aren't real valuable in good shape about 50/100 bucks around here so I'd have to think that the block you have isn't going to bring much over scrap price. They really aren't rare or hard to find.
The 010 block is a stronger block. It was mfg starting in the late 60's up till approx 79. It has a high zink content which gives it added stregnth and is a sought after block by brage racers. They came in 2 bolt and 4 bolt mains. A 2 bolt can be made into a 4 bolt It is not a high price block but can be sold faster then the new style because of the strength of the block. Racers would rather build an 010 block
Is that number stamped somewhere on the block? How can you tell it is one of the 010 engines if not ? Don
no damage that I can see the motor still ran when I pulled it I heard a squeal and pulled it the next day. I just dropped the pan and motor still rotates fine and There were no shavings in the oil or pan I may have pulled it prematurely thinking thats what was going on.
Yes its on the back driver side the code reads 3970010 and you can fide the other numbers on the front passenger side that will give you the other info parshall vin and if it were a 4 bolt or 2 bolt main.
It's nickel and or zinc.Supposedly the casting numbers on the front of the block are a code for this. No one here or anywhere has provided any factory proof that the numbers meaning is block material. One guy here suggested it's nothing more than casting mold numbers.
The 3970010 early blocks where almost all 4 block. Later some 2 bolt made it threw. Many where a 919 alloy block and manufactured in the Tonawanda plant. If you look on the left side of the block looking from the rear forward you will note pattern numbers on the block in the area of the core prints/freeze plugs. Not just the small clock looking things but a conglomeration of numbers and letters. These are the 919 alloy block, and the better blocks for racing. As far as the crank having a spun journal. It's number 7 rods journal 99% of the time. Back in the day when we raced we ran factory parts unofficially. Everything came out of the Tonawanda plant. We would make the trip over and get our parts. We once did a study as to what bearings in a Chevy went out first. After disassemble 100 engines we found it was always number 7 rod bearing. In the old days everyone new this. If you didn't you sure as hell weren't in the know. I find it interest that some of the old timers never mention this. I guess that this is one of those cases where what's old is new.
great info Johnny I think your right as far as where the noise was coming from was the rear driver side that would be #7 Thanks for the info.
Look at the photo ... You can tell a LOT about a SBC by the block date code ( when it was made ), Block casting number ( like 010 ) and the engine ID number/VIN code ( the vehicle the engine was originally installed in from the factory ). Easy ...
On the SBC, #7 tends to have more problems because of the sequential firing order; crossfire between #5 & #7 causes preignition. This happens when there are problems with the plug wires, or they are routed too closely.
by the block casting #, all four bolt main blocks are 010, but not all 010 blocks are four bolt main. 010 cast behind the timing gear cover is a higher nickle content block.
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