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Econoline wont start when hot. Any ideas??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tankwilson, Aug 29, 2011.

  1. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    Hey guys i got a 63 econoline van with a 289 in it. Just put on a new/rebuilt autolite 2100 carb. Van runs awesome but it wont start once its warmed up. It acts like its flooded. Have to hold it to the floor to get it to start. The hotter out it is the worse it is.

    I have a felpro insulating gasket on and i have run the fuel line up and away from any heat sources.

    Any Ideas????

    Thanks
    matt
     
  2. TonyVan
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 120

    TonyVan
    Member
    from Vancouver

    Sounds like vapor lock. I chased that for months last year - fuel boiling in the carb, flooded symptoms etc.
    Did all the things you've done - rerouted and wrapped fuel lines, thicker gasket..also made sure the gas tank was vented to ensure there was no vacuum build up there. In the end, I put on a 1" phenolic spacer and all the hot start issues went away.
    You need to either reduce the heat in the engine compartment, or insulate the fuel components from the heat sources.
     
  3. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    Where can i get a phenolic spacer? I have a 1" aluminum spacer.

    Thanks
    matt
     
  4. lowbudgetjunk
    Joined: Jul 21, 2011
    Posts: 28

    lowbudgetjunk
    Member
    from Cullman

    I had a '65 Mustang that would do the same thing....vapor lock for me too. I pushed mine of down a pretty long hill, dropping the clutch in third and it would eventually sputter to life. I would like to think it was the cooling air and continual draw of fuel that got it running.

    http://www.google.com/products/catalog?client=safari&rls=en&q=phenolic+spacer&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10158427657162122632&sa=X&ei=bMxbTtvXBpGTtwfv8uyTDA&ved=0CFwQ8wIwAw#ps-sellers Just an example, I haven't used that particular one.
     
  5. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    Sounds good. Van runs great and hauls ***, just wont start when hot.

    Thanks
    matt
     
  6. hungrymonkey
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 9

    hungrymonkey
    Member
    from Oregon

    You can get a cheapy spacer from most box automotive stores. Last one I bought was from autozone.
     
  7. TonyVan
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 120

    TonyVan
    Member
    from Vancouver

    I picked up my phenolic spacer from Summit - it was about $19, I think.. You should be able to get one over the counter at a decent parts store. Just make sure you also pick up a set of longer carb studs - your stock ones will probably be too short.
     
  8. Moldy1956
    Joined: Aug 29, 2011
    Posts: 27

    Moldy1956
    Member

    Try an elec. fuel pump. I had a '63 Club Wagon with the 170 I6. Had same problem. I put the points eliminator and an elec fuel pump. No more problems!
     
  9. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    Im bout to pull my hair out. Just installed my phenolic spacer and went for a drive. Not even that hot out prob mid 70's. Started up cold great, cruised around, ran awsome, tons of power, came home, went inside for a bit, come back out and will just barley start.

    WTF??? I think it is still a heat issue. I basicly have a V8 motor inside a small box and nowhere for the heat to go. Any ideas???

    Thanks
    matt
     
  10. 68 truck
    Joined: Aug 7, 2010
    Posts: 10

    68 truck
    Member
    from Kansas

    it could be a timing issuse too. being too far advanced can do that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2011
  11. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    I do have an HEI installed. Its getting spark, just flooded
     
  12. 23dragster
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 264

    23dragster
    Member
    from U.S.

    That does sound like hot fuel, but of course it's been proven not to be now... Vacuum leak causing it to run too hot? Or maybe your carb float level is too high. I'm not familiar with the Autolite 2100 but I think it has a side mounted bowl. Could it be that when hot it doesn't have enough time to dissipate the extra fuel if the level is too high and drips into the intake?

    I used to let old high-ish compression kicker Harleys sit for an hour or so with the exhaust valves open to start them if I flooded them back a few years. They would start terrible hot if flooded, but when cool, obviously there was no liquid fuel build up and they started fine. Same principle for V8/I6...
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2011
  13. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    the thing that gets me..... is other than not wanting to start when warmed up,,,, The thing runs perfect.
     
  14. Johnny Wishbone
    Joined: Aug 10, 2009
    Posts: 314

    Johnny Wishbone
    Member

    Float set too high? If it is hot and you shut it off, will it start up right away, but not if you let it sit for 5 minutes? Having to hold it to the floor makes it sound like it is flooded. Keep us posted and good luck.

    JW
     
  15. 23dragster
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 264

    23dragster
    Member
    from U.S.

    What Johnny said makes sense, happened to me before.
     
  16. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    yea will start up fairly soon after shut off. If it sits for 5-10 min or longer then wont want to start. Carb is so hot cant hard to touch it, even after the spacer is installed.

    Thinkn about seting up an electric fan on the under side of the doghouse lid pointing down and putting it on a thermostat.
     
  17. Johnny Wishbone
    Joined: Aug 10, 2009
    Posts: 314

    Johnny Wishbone
    Member

    Check the float. Been there, done that. In an Econoline the carb is going to be hot no matter what. Check the float. Check the float. :)
     
  18. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    new carb, everything to spec. float is great.
     
  19. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,279

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Mine was a vapour lock in fuel tank vent and then the same thing happened again. It was the coil this time, when it got hot it just shut down and wouldn't start until it cooled.
     
  20. 2bad2bRich
    Joined: Aug 28, 2011
    Posts: 12

    2bad2bRich
    Member

    idk alot bout fords of this time era but... I know some of Vacuum advance and carb set. vacuum advance odda keep idle temps down, have the carb spit lean at idle, and set timing to exact mark with timing light. Idle Should have vacuum advance, advancing it so lean mixture burns like it odda.. Takes more to burn a lean mixture, so vacuum advance is crucial. And then have it spit rich when floored. Vacuum advance stops, and mechanical jumps into play up in RPMs. A float problem at idle aka Rich mixture will burn faster, and the advancing will pre-detonation. in this case you gots lots of heat and spark knock. P.S make sure you have vacuum. And also, make sure its vacuums from the manifold, and not the top of carb...
     
  21. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,738

    bobss396
    Member

    The first thing I thought is the coil. Swap it out with another one, they're cheap enough and always good to have a spare on hand. Do you know for a fact that it might be dumping fuel into the manifold, have you checked the plugs?
    Another possibility is a dragging starter, hard to check without a load tester. I've been fooled by a couple of bum starters in the past.

    Bob
     
  22. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    Would it really be ignition issues if i can start it by holding the acc pedal to the floor??? i really think its carb issues.

    Gotta remember my engine is in a compartment bout the size of your household oven. No where for the heat to go when shut off, but up.
     
  23. Van Dutch
    Joined: Nov 17, 2008
    Posts: 247

    Van Dutch
    Member

    Get the fan you mentioned or prop open the doghouse when you shut it off. I have also seen some guys build an air tunnel from the floor the the doghouse. Vexing **** like that just pisses you off. So close, but yet...
     
  24. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    Yeh, I crack open the doghouse on mine when I park it on hot days. Trying that might eliminate one of the possibilities, on the cheap too.
     
  25. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    Are you using the original dogbox, or a 65-67? If the original, then you have a really tight compartment.

    Prop up the lid as suggested so some heat can escape and see if that helps. Insulate the fuel lines in the dogbox like I suggested in the PM. Those are both quick, easy, cheap things to try.

    Are you SURE fuel is getting through the carb when it's hot? Did you check the float, or are you ***uming it's correct because it's new?

    You keep say that there's nowhere for the heat to go. What can you do to fix that? Lots of guys run v8s in their Econos without the vapor lock you're describing.

    This is what I did:
    aluminum radiator + electric puller fan + thermostat control
    ceramic coated headers
    Extended the dog box sides over the headers for improved airflow
    Left the air dam in place

    It starts when hot, and the temps have not gone over about 190
     
  26. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    The carb should never get to hot to touch. DOes that engine also have a egr system> if so it may be stuck open.

    It could be ignition as well. The older (70's) econolines had early year durasparks, and when they got hot they acted the same way. A weak spark will portray a flooded engine. The question is, when you drive the vehicle and then shut it off, take off the air cleaner and see if white smoke is coming out, a little means your needle a seat arent stopping the fuel.

    an old trick with the early durasparks is. Have cold water by you, when you drive the vehicle, and shut it off, and it wont restart, pour cold water on the duraspark box, then it should start. If it does, replace the box......sounds goofy but I have witnessed this first hand on a trip out west. It does work if the box is bad.


    289's historically ran cool. Why is yours runnin hot, thats a whole nother question.
     
  27. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    Im running a chevy style HEI.
     
  28. 23dragster
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 264

    23dragster
    Member
    from U.S.

    Heat soaked coil would be the next thing I'd check.
     
  29. tankwilson
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,161

    tankwilson
    Member

    would a heat soaked coil start when i hold the pedal to the floor and act like its flooded????
     
  30. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    Me too. Is it a Proform one? The only problem I had with mine and heat was the cheap Chinese junk in the Proform dizzy got hot and fried. I had to replace the coil and module with good parts and haven't had a problem since. It just died on me and wouldn't restart until it cooled down. Yours restarts, so it may not be the problem, but it is one more thing to check.
     

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