Removing the manual shaft lip seal on a TH 350

The TH350 behind the SBC in my Model A sedan leaks significantly out the transmission shift rod and lever that p*** thru the drivers side of the case.
I don't feel like dropping the pan to remove the rod that p***es thru the case ( Too Lazy & Not Enough Confidence In My Own Ability's).
Shop manual advises not to remove the rod anyhow.
Has anyone got a tip on popping the seal out with the shaft still in place and the ****** still in the car.
I've got plenty of room in that area to work because the drive line is very low in the frame.
Do I drill a couple of holes into the metal rim of the seal and pick it out?
Any other suggestions?
I've never been inside a Turbo Hydramatic before so I'm very leery of out pacing my ability on this seemingly simple job..

 

k
















K D Tools use to make tool for this.It looked like a socket with threads on the outside,you removed the shift arm ,screwed this on then pryed out the seal.You might still find one at a good NAPA store.

 

have done it, just use a few picks of different sizes and shapes, make sure you have the new seal on hand, get the lip of metal kinda tore out towards outside, then grab it with some needle nose and wiggle it out, be very careful when you put in the new one, there are usually some very sharp edges around where the rod is threaded and made flat........not to hard.....

 

I would drop the pan and pull the shaft. Not really that much of a job to do.

If you must try without pulling it I would drill one or two small holes as you describe and thread a small sheet metal screw in the hole. Clamp some vice grips on the screw and use a pry bar to pull it out. Haven't done this on a trans shift seal before but have on others and it worked great. When installing the new seal be sure you don't tear the lip on the sharp shoulder of the shaft.

 

I know you're probably right in telling me to drop the pan. Filings and other gunk and goo issues always appear then and that's the best time to address them.
I admit I'm a shortcut artist if there's a way to do it.

 

Like Rails32 said, get the right tool for the job. Tool on the right pulls out the seal, tool on the left drives in the new one. They come as a set. If you use picks and screws you my scratch up either the case or the shifter shaft and then it will still leak with a new seal.

 

I did it this summer, small tiny hole, then a tiny metal screw and screwed it it a couple turns, pryed on the small screw and kind of spun out as I pryed, it was surprisingly loose in the case. I just lightly emeryclothed the sharp edges on the shaft and put a light sealer on the OD of the new seal when I slipped it in. No leaks yet.

 

Thanks folks! I appreciate your tips..........shortcuts or otherwise.
I have to spend most of this week away on business in Connecticut so when I get back by the weekend I will return to this project and many others waiting for me down back in the garage.
Got to get all projects addressed before warm weather cruising and racing season starts up again.

 

I bought that tool from Snap On about 20 some years ago, never used it. Right now I'm not sure I could lay my hands on it anymore.

 

where'd you get your new seal, is it something they have on the shelf at Napa? I need one.

 

You can get the seal you need at rockauto.com they are less than $2. Also the tool Lobucrod showed is excellent. Ltierally makes it a 5 min. job. You can get them online.

 

Tool works great. I am in total agreement.

 

Thanks for everyone's advice last week.
I pulled the shift linkage off the shaft last Saturday. I drift punched the seal in 3 places, took the smallest bit i had and very slowly drilled into the metal ring of the seal.
With a tool resembling a dental pick I carefully worked it into the holes, one hole at a time, and worked the cir***ference in a pulling and twisting motion.
Popped the leaker out in about 90 seconds, cleaned out the metal debris with a magnet, a Q tip and some compressed air.
I did shoot some sealant in to the seal housing then drove the new seal in very gently so as not to rip it up.
Seemed to do the trick thanks to all the HAMB members that offered their guidance.

 

If anyone's interested you can get the tool mentioned above at NAPA for less than $10 and it works great. Just ask for Part Number 7769250, they may need to order it but thats usually less than a day to get it in. Don't buy it online, I've found they run from $30(Ebay)-$60 plus shipping.

 

Now this was a very useful thread....