Well, I am sure this is no shock to you guys that have been around a while, but here is my story: When I installed the modified sbc 283 in my '63 Biscayne I had to move the radiator hose over to the center due to other stuff I put on the engine. So rather than mess around trying to find a factory housing, I just ordered a chrome one off FleeBay that fit my needs. Thought it was the easiest and best way to go....NOT After FOUR different gaskets, and several different silicone's it still leaked. Not much but just enough to be annoying... So today I went to NAPA and got a factory 283 cast housing....cleaned everything up (again) and put it on...with just the gasket..no silicone or sealer.... WALAAAA No leaks now.. Geesh, what a dumb *** I can be..... Hopefully this will help anyone out there considering the same.... Cheers, Bob
Always use the factory style cast iron housings. File 'em smooth, paint 'em with spray bomb epoxy primer inside and out, then spray bomb epoxy color inside and out. Never go away that way.
I got a chrome housing with the O-ring, never had a problem with it. the ones without the O-ring leaked.
A few seconds on a belt sander should cure it, or the original casting would work ^^dam, dave beat me to it sometimes they crack at one of the bolt holes, than they are ****
I went thru the same h***le with the flat 6 engine in my '39 Plymouth, a chrome water outlet i bought from speedway. I must have changed the gasket 4-5 times w/several different sealants on the gasket and couldn't get it to stop leaking. A friend who has an auto repair business recommended a Permatex product called "The right stuff", this stuff is amazing. I used it instead of a gasket and that water outlet does not leak a drop (been in place for over a year). This stuff will seal just about anything. He uses for any application where a sealant is required and uses it in place of gaskets- intake manifolds, water outlets, timing covers, etc.
The Chrome finish is the issue here, remove it from the mating surface and you're golden! It also applies to chrome oil or trans pans too. The chrome is too smooth to have any "tooth" for the sealant to grab onto. Sand or file it off.
Yep, I think we've all been there with cheapie parts. Seems like a good idea at the time...but in the end it winds up being a big mistake. Kinda like going to a family reunion. Don't sweat it, glad its fixed!
Both Fel-Pro and Mr. Gasket make a reusuable gasket with the " O " ring in it. I have never had one leak with this type gasket. I ALWAYS use this gasket.
The issue is not the chrome finish, you can get an iron housing and have it chromed and it'll work great forever. The issue is that the cheap chrome ones are made out of zinc (pot metal), which moves around when it gets hot. The O ring will slow down the leaking, but it will eventually warp enough that it will leak.
Squirrel got it right, get a cast iron one, and have it plated. Besides the gasket issues, the zinc ones will also deteriorate on the inside, with the acidic antifreeze. Then they develop pinholes and leak.
I hear so many people complain about the chrome housings leaking, I gotta say, I have never used anything but the chrome housings and never had a problem. I get the o-ring style and also put a little silicone and I let it sit for a day before I fill the system and start the car.
I used a Ford Motorsports chrome one on my 302, leaked instantly from the byp*** tube, took it back off and found it was threaded and loose. Tightened it, still leaked. Put thread sealant on the treads and reinstalled ..... leaked. arg! Bought a cheapo cast one, painted it, and Voila! no leaks !!!
I had to spring for one of those aluminum housings that rotate. I hated to, but I needed to have it at a weird angle. It has an O-ring, and has worked well.
I'm running a very old cast aluminum thermostat housing that I polished to match my aluminum intake. It's not one of the newer style billet/O-ring jobs, but at least as old as the 70's. Looks just like a stock cast iron part but is aluminum. Early aftermarket or Corvette? Are these still available?
Many stock original housings were aluminum, starting some time in the mid 60s. They don't warp, but they do get corroded if you don't keep up on coolant maintenance.
The other problem with the cheapy chrome ones is that they are cast pot metal which is fairly soft. If you drive the car much coolant p***ing through the housing will erode a hole through it making a pretty nice imitation of Old Faithful.
Had a ritual of replacing the Chinese housing on my 32 every couple of years cause it would corrode through. It was on a blower motor with remote thermostat and sat in such a way as to have coolant sitting in it when not running. Got so tired of it I finally sold the car after 22 years of ownership.
I agree with the belt sander trick. I have one on the wagon and it leaked after two sets of gaskets. I pulled it off and checked it with a straight edge and WOW, I had to take an 1/8" off the ears to get it flat. They are junk but sometimes a lot easy to find. My next one will be a stock cast one!
I just had a leak on my SBC from a Chinese cheepo water neck. I didn't have time to order one and needed it right away. The only necks I could buy locally were cast iron or another Chinese cheepo. The cast was so ugly I couldn't see using it as the rest of the engine looks so good. So I bought another chrome cheepo with an "O" ring seal. I installed it along with a Fel Pro gasket and a small amount of silicone. Not leaking yet. The only good news is they are cheap and easy to install. I called a local Chevy dealer which even has a performance parts section and asked if they had a chrome water neck that wasn't made in China. There reply was "Rots a Ruck".
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