Im trying to rebuild the frontend on My 52 Chevy but I can't free the kingpin from the upright at all. I started by trying to use a drift and hammer per the manual and no luck. So I says to myself "get a bigger F'n hammer and a bigger punch right"...wrong no luck there either. So I figure we'll stick it in the press that'll get that ******* out for sure...aaaand NO, still stuck. So then we decided to put some heat to it to help melt that old grease and nastiness and help expand the upright a little then we can press it out Im sure....but still no luck. What do I do know, I know the pin is only suppossed to be a slip fit, am I doing something wrong is this pesky little hunk of antiquated metal just trying to be the bane of my existance today ? What should I try now.
Yea did you remove the small set screw that was probably grease covered ? That will hold the king pin for sure . The king pin shouldn't be that hard to get our , rusty or not ! Try soaking the top with your best degreaser/rust remover you have and see what happens . Retro Jim
Below is the results of a study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine and published in the April 2007 issue. They compared different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. Here's the summary of the test results: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ........ 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix......53 pounds
There is a thin metal cap on top. Under that, there are spring clips like a driveshaft U-Joint above AND below the pin. There is no set screw. After those are removed, you shouldn't have much resistance because the bushings are bronze - rusting seized shouldn't be the issue even if they are dry.
Well Ive removed the grase fittings, lock pin the dust cap, the clip ring and the other disc on top of the kingpin. I can see the pin and the br*** bushing surround. On the other side I removed the dustcap/ clipring but I cant get the little disc out. I was thinking If I pressed it fromthe exposed side it would pop that disc out but no luck, Ive also tried to press from the side with the stuck disc try to push the pin out the other side with no luck. I hope thats halfway understandable, it sounds more complicated than it really is, or at least should be. Anymore suggestions ?
**** man, Im already done with the beer and moved on to whiskey add I still cant get it. Maybe Im not cursing this son of a bicth mother****er enough...maybe that'll help. Maybe we'll make a jig to hold it a little better while its in the press.
The beer and wiskey are a good touch. But the real problem is, Ya ain't holdin yer lips right !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A 52 chevy kingpin should have a thru-bolt lock pin. you'll see a nut & lockwasher on one side, remove them then drive out the pin by applying force to the threaded end. remove lockrings & dustshields on top&bottom, now your ready to drive out the k.p. pretty simple stuff. sometimes a little heat helps. dave
I've seen this before, and have questioned the validity. I suppose it does have some credence, but consider this: I take a quan***y of six half inch bolts, put a nut on each of them, and bury them all side by side in the ground for a year. When I dig them up a year later, they will all require equal torque to undo them? I don't think so. Some will require less than others, just because that's the nature of rust. It's not an equal opportunity deal. The testing above, however, implies that would be the case, and the only reason that the torque figures are different would be the version of snake oil one chooses to use. I've always been a user of Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, and candle wax, in that order. Maybe I'll get some of the Kroil, and mix up a batch of ATFcetone and see if they work any better. Darn "what's the best rust penetrant" discussions are always more lively than the "Ginger, Mary Ann, or Ellie Mae" questions.......
I know this guy that once tried to remove a king pin with a punch and the king pin expanded.................Now I use sockets..............
you need whiskey to let 3 chicks take you at once? not me, i'm much more agreeable or is the booze for them?
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see the picture of the upright and spindle in the vise? see the empty hole in the upright where the little pin deal goes? did you remove that? I say if you removed that pin and it doesn't come out with a press you are in deep doo-doo. I've ripped apart a couple of these front ends over the years and never had problems getting the kingpins out. hammer and a punch was all it took. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/ .... lots of good stuff here.
Exactly what Im thinking happened, anyway Ive got it soaking now and I just cursed it up and down for about an hour soooo, Im gonna try to get the cap off the other end and see if I can press it out that way. I'll use a socket this time. Oh yeah all pins and fittings and all that have been removed. Itshould just push out the way Im doing it.....shouldnt it?
Be really careful using sockets in your press. I have seen them explode under the load and it ain't pretty - neither is the guys face that the shrapnel went into.
I've changed many stuck king pins in small and big trucks.Once you've hammered on it for a while and it does't move,it's all ****ed up. You said you used a press? At least 20 ton? Ok ,last resort I used a few times.On the bottom between the part bolted to the A frame (an axle on a truck)and the spindle is the thrust washer.Using a torch or grinder and chisel to cut it away.It just tin and ball bearings or br*** washers.Now you can see the pin.Take a grinder with a cut off disc and go at the pin scoring it all the way around .You can cut if through with the grinder but I find a Sawzall is less destructive on parts you don't want to destroy.The pin is case hardened so once you get through the outside it cuts easily.Now drive out the short stub from the spindle bushing.Now invert the spindle in the vise and you'll be able to cut through the kingpin on the other side of the spindle.Now you're holding the piece with the hacked off kingpin in your hand,clean cut the ends,it'll will press right out. If no press,heat to 300 or so degrees as quickly as possible,no hotter, and the pin will come out with hammer and drift.
You could try holding a large hammer on one side of the axle and hitting the other side with another hammer to shock the rust. If you have it out, lay it on an anvil and hit it.
Its out from the car, and I put it in a vice and did as it shows in the manua.l Its almost like the pin is mushroomed in there or something. Im gonna try to do the other one and see what happens, if no luck I might just cut em up. Ive got extra uprights , I just need to get the spindle out.Ii cant see any reason taking this damn thing out is such a pain.
heat red hot, melt cheap emergency candles into every area possible. the parafin in the wax will actually soak into the metal. the parafin will act as a lube and penitrant at the same time. it will even go up into the k.p. when applied to the bottom. add more heat then hit it with a flat head air hammer and it should slide right out. did this to about three axles a month ago. coolest trick ive ever learned.
On some equipment I work on has a pin in them.we will weld a nut on the end take a impact get it to go round and round it usually comes out
The Jalopy Journal
