Here's what's going on. I bought a Rebel 14 circuit a while back and I'm just getting ready to get started. I've looked at the wiring diagram/schematic, but realized that I really don't have any idea what I'm doing. So my question is where do I even start? I've tried searching, but really didn't find what I was looking for. I'm hoping there is someone who can help to get me started. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ant
First figure out where to put the fuse panel, then seperate your wire groups. When seperated you'll take one section at a time and feed them to their destination. What I'm talking about is the rear section will include tail lights,backup lights and license plate light, electric fuel pump if you have one back there. The dash wires go to the guages and switches, the turn signal wires go to the turn signal switch so on and so forth. Make sure and lay them out first and make sure they are not near exhaust or moving parts that could damage the wires. Take one section at a time and hook them up.
first thing in my opinion would be to get all your shit together, like straps (to secure wires to frame) wire loom, shrink wrap, soldering iron or crimps and crimper. a good way to tell what size loom and straps you would need is to pull your car out of the garage then route all your wires on the garage floor as if your car was still there. that will give you a good idea of how many wires are going to the front, rear, sides...etc im sure rebel wire is labeled and bundled and everything but even when i did my harness (hotrod wires which weren't that good) stuff would get changed around a little bit just because the harness is generic. my f1 uses a similar harness, i have elec fuel pump, fan, and a late gm alternator. i broke my truck down into 3 sections front of truck cab rear of truck i just took it slow and did one section at a time. routed the wires through the loom, strapped them nicely and terminated (in that order) you should have pretty good directions on what wires go where. if the directions or diagrams get confusing, dont get overwhelmed, just get as far as you can one wire at a time and usually it will make scence by the time you get to the end of it (a good example of this is making up taillights. i had something like 4 wires going to my taillights on my harness but only had two coming out of each taillight. so you start with what you know, i knew that one harness wire was for the licence plate light, ran that to my drivers taillight with the intigrated plate light. then left and right turn signals, that was easy, then stop lamps, split those off and go to each light) just an example of something that looked fucked up at first but after taking it slow and going one wire at a time, it usually works itself out also, let's say the harness has a 15 amp circuit for a horn that would go the the front and you're like "fuck that im not doing a horn", run it anyway because it doesn't take any extra work to put it in the harness and get it down there, then who knos if down the road you want a horn, or even better, you need 15 amps for something in your engine bay (maybe ac or something who knows what youll be doing to it down the road) and have that circuit there ready to use. if your using a gm keyed type column, it may seem scary but its really easy and info on the web is everywhere! being an electrician definately helps me out, but really the best advice i could give is to do your best not to fuck yourself later on haha. and just take it one wire at a time, BE NEAT, strap and loom everything, and if you have questions, feel free to pm me, i could probably answer them
My primary objective is always to have everything mounted. Radio, gauges, lights, everything. Then you're ready to wire. Do start with the fusebox mount, and it does REALLY pay to be neat. Cosmo
exactly what im saying man, just divide em out to where they go then one wire at a time, it keeps the stress level down big time!
I'll do it in 3 sections. I'm sure you'll be hearing from me though. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
Hi Fireant, You haven't mentioned whether or not you are converting your truck to 12v negative or not. Keep in mind that the old 6v systems carried roughly twice the current and require heavier gauge wires. I would also agree that you should mount your fuse box and other components first. Break up the wiring tasks into small testable tasks so you can make sure each circuit is working properly before you move on to the next one.
49 custom thanks for the advice. Like I said earlier I've never attempted this and I didn't think to test as I go. Duh, that makes perfect sense. Thanks a lot Ant
Like was already said divide them up and run them to their locations. Keep it neat and organized. Finish one section at a time. ie. the rear of the truck and then move onto the next section. Before you know it you'll be done. Just take your time and don't be afraid to take a break. it can get kind of tedious after a while. Todd
Like carbed87 said, keeping the groups separate will make it easier. This pic is of the Rebel 9+3 kit I'm using on my '51 F1. The three groups are front of the truck, engine compartment and rear of the truck. If you break it down it won't be so overwhelming. Like he also said, run the spare wire anyway. Since I'm running a one wire alternator the wire marked "exciter" (or something like that) will actually be used for my electric choke. Just take your time, electrical stuff ain't rocket surgery.
Just installed one in my '53 ford Coe. Just take it slow. Follow the instructions carefully. If you have any problems or questions d
Sorry If you have any questions don't hesitate to call the guys at rebel for tech support. They can and will walk you through any Problems or questions you might have.
Get a bunch of grommets! Tyewraps, too. I found a dealer for Adel clamps online- an airplane parts dealer.(Airplane Spruce, or something). I got started pulling groups of wire, then decided to do it differently, after going to a car show. Decided to hide most of it.So, I pulled back out what I'd done and started over. I'm glad I did- I'm much happier with the way it turned out. I still have coiled up wire stashed off to the side (neatly, of course) for the power windows, and back-up lights, etc., if I decide to use them. Still undecided as of yet- but have a long way to go before paint, and window felts. At least I can drive it! Go slow- think and re-think it- you'll be right proud of the end results, if you don't burn it up. (just kiddin about the burn it up thing.) lango.
Good point, there is plenty of wire in the Rebel harness. I'm planning on converting my F1 to a one piece tilt front end, ran all the wiring in split loom from the firewall along the frame and didn't cut off any. Got it coiled up behind the headlights, nearly two feet on each side. Once the tilt is done the wire can be routed and trimmed accordingly. Hiding the wiring as much as possible gives a cleaner look. I've seen some otherwise nice cars with wiring just thrown around and it always looks like hell.
It's all black magic...if you use the right spells, you'll be successful. Don't let the smoke out. Seriously though, you've got lots of good advice. I've only wired one complete vehicle but when I got finished...I'll be damned everything worked! If I can do it, so can you. When you actually start doing it everything will begin to make sense. Keep us posted.
OahuEli thanks for the picture, I'm one of those visual people. Saxman thanks for the motivation, I need it. I've been thinking about this thing since I started the thread; drawing pictures, rereading the instructions that came with the kit, and trying to find places to run the wires so they are not visible. I'll let you know how it turns out. Once again I want to thank everyone for all their great advice. Ant
I always use a harness from a 70's - 80's car in older stuff cuz I'm cheap, but still applies: When I get mine divided up into circuts or sections I'll put a wrap of tape every once in a while so you're not getting the stuff you just sorted out tangled with the non sorted. Not a lot of tape, just a wrap or two. Start routing the wires but don't terminate to their components until you have the whole group/section figured out. That way you can make all the wires the correct length in relation to each other. Much easier to get it all in a loom that way. TEST, TEST, TEST as you go, then retest when each circut/light is completed. A test light or volt meter is your best friend next to a soldering iron. Solder and shrink tube all connections. I always try to leave plenty of slack in the wiring, so you can pull out a component (or dash pod) later and work on it in your lap instead of standing on your head squished between the column and seat. On my last truck I even put disconnect plugs for the front end and the bed so the sheet metal can be pulled off with the wiring in place. I wait to use any coverings or clamps until everything is complete and tested. Then you don't have to tear stuff apart if something needs added or changed.
Someone once told me not to solder connections, but I don't remember why; they always told me to crimp them. Has anyone else heard not to solder the wires? Ant
I have done wiring on a few things but haven't rewired a full car/truck yet with a wiring harness kit . I have done race cars and such so I just did my own wiring set-up to use because we didn't need the lights and things like that . I have a 9+3 wiring harness from Rebal for my 55 Ford I got from Tugmaster . You can also call up Rebal and they will talk you through any problems you might run across . The best advise I can give you that most everyone else already did is . First , read ALL the instructions so you know them by heart . Second , lay the wiring out in the 3 major blocks that will go in your truck . The engine bay , interior and rear of truck . Then separate them as you would lay them out in your truck doing one section at a time . Third , do ONE section at a time ! Every wire is labeled so there is no question what that wire goes to . Final , I solder ALL my wiring and seal with shrink tubing ! That way it will not get wet or short out by touching the frame or someplace else ! I also use pull ties to keep everything nice and neat ! Replace ALL old worn out sockets for lights ! They are cheap and easy to find ! Using old wiring sockets will ruin your day when something doesn't work . Just take your time and do it right the first time ! It will take some time to rewire your truck so just take your time and follow the instructions ! If I can do it anyone can do it ! Retro Jim
The reason some say not to solder the connections is because between heat and movement the connections can become brittle and break. Firm crimps should be sufficient for most connections, so be sure to get a decent crimper.
Crimped connections are mechanical like a nut & bolt. They can loosen-up over time. Soldered connections are fused like a weld. Use heat-shrink tubing to cover either.
I'm going to politely disagree on two points. While a crimped connection is mechanical, like a properly torqued bolt, it should hold well if crimped properly. Also, soldering is not like welding, because you are not fusing like materials into one piece, but rather filling space with a softer metal between two other unlike materials (copper wire and steel connectors). That being said, a good soldered joint will be better than a good crimped joint; the catch is that most people can do a much better crimped joint than a soldered one. Too much heat and too much solder are common causes of brittle soldered joints, so be sure to practice!
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