I have a pretty decent wood cutting compound miter saw. I was wondering if anyone had tried using a fine tooth carbide blade for cutting aluminum or an abrasive wheel for mild steel. I know a chop saw rotates slower. I could use a speed control to slow it down.
It seems to work on aluminum well. I wouldn't use it for steel though. And by the way we need you to do an intro on the intro page there FNG
I've used a non carbide blade and it will work fine backwards for cutting aluminum. I've used my skill saw with a carbide blade running the normal direction and it will cut eighth inch aluminum like ****er. Turn right around and cut wood and never miss a beat. I use a band saw,sawzall,cutoff wheel for steel. A word of caution WEAR GOGGLES, FACE SHIELD and all the safety equipment you have. The shards go everywhere and the "E" room charges really screw up the hot rod budget.
I cut aluminum everyday using woodworking carbide blades............I also use blades especially made to cut aluminum. Seems to me they work the same, wood blades are much cheaper. I regulary cut one inch aluminum with a Skill saw and table saw...........I ALWAYS use cutting wax. Welcome to the HAMB new guy.
i cut aluminum all the time with my chop saw, circular saw, jig saw and band saw, i never turn the blade around on any, you can buy metal cutting abrasive blades for circular saws and chop saws, just make sure your not melting any plastic parts.
I use my cheapo Delta compound miter/chop saw for steel/aluminum, but with a 10" abrasive wheel. It works great, but it DID melt the plastic blade gaurd after while! Seems to work just fine though. The nice thing about it is that the miter table is much more accurate than the steel chop saw I bought, as it clicks into 22 1/2 and 45 degree spots on each side, and the fact it that it does swing right and left from 90 degrees. The 10" blades don't last as long, and are more $$ than 12" ones, if that makes much difference... Brian
I must agree Brian, I've used my Delta for years with an abrasive wheel for making matching cuts of opposite angles that can't be done on a regular steel cutting chopsaw because it only angles in a 90* ARC not 180* Very handy!!!!!
I never reverse my blade to cut aluminum. I use a 270 tooth 12 inch diameter high speed steel blade with cutting oil sprayed on it and it will cut like ****er. I build aluminum frame windows and one blade lasts about four years cutting a couple hours each day.
When I was building houses about 25 years ago , the siding we used was aluminum back then . I used a power saw to cut the aluminum siding and worked very well with no jagged edges either . I used the very fine tooth plywood saw blade and installed it back wards in the saw . Worked like a charm too ! I would just turn the saw blade back wards and cut the alum like that . Will work just fine . Retro Jim
Thanks for the many responses. Does anyone have a preferred blade manufacturer? I noticed that Evolution makes blades to run in any saw. Page 26 of the catalog http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/downloads/3.us_downloads/catalogs/usa_catalog_2011_s.pdf
The Aluminum Dust (if captured or bagged)will explode when the steel sparks ignite it. Unless you just want to burn your shop down, use water to saturate your dust that is created. As far as speed control goes. Linemaster Co. makes a variable speed foot switch that works with 120vac electric motors. You can buy it at Grainger. However, the slower you make your electric motor go, the shorter the life. I would not have even responded to this thread but I install and service deburring machines. They are dedicated aluminum OR steel. Not both, unless they are covered in water as it runs. "Dont" mix aluminum dust with steel sparks. I dont mean to be so direct but somebody is gonna catch the shop on fire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I sometimes get too excited when I hear Aluminum and Steel being "worked" using the same machine. I have the wonderful opportunity to get audited by OSHA twice a year due to the sensitive businesses that hire me. Anyone can be careful and NOTHING bad will happen. However, the majority of workers across the country that I work with are 99% smart and there is that 1% that keep me on edge. OSHA • Standard Number: 1915.4(r); 1915.504(b) OSHA does not define hot work based on specific types of materials or processes due to the endless possible combinations thereof. Hot work is defined in 29 CFR 1915.4(r) as "riveting, welding, burning, or other fire or spark producing operations." Thus, regardless of the type of material being ground, if fire or sparks are produced under any of the conditions specified in 1915.504(b), then a fire watch is required to be posted. Conversely, if no fire or sparks are produced, then the operation is not considered hot work, and a fire watch is not required. Grinding on aluminum transfers only a small amount of heat and that no sparks are generated. However, the amount of heat generated is dependent upon various factors such as the speed, composition, and surface contact area of the grinder, as well as the duration and amount of pressure applied. Therefore, "a small amount of heat" cannot be quantified given the number of grinding process variables. In addition, sparks may be generated by the aluminum if it is not non-ferrous aluminum. Although pure, non-ferrous aluminum is non-sparking, aluminum alloys are commonly used due to availability, cost, and strength properties. An aluminum alloy, even though generally considered to be a "spark-resistant" material, typically contains 5% of ferric material by weight. If grinding these alloys creates sparks, then it is considered hot work, and a fire watch would be required under any of the cir***stances described in 1915.504(b). Even if pure, non-ferrous aluminum is used, sparks can occur during an aluminothermic reaction, also called a thermic reaction. Such a reaction occurs when an aluminum particle and a metal oxide, such as rust, are ignited by a heat source and chemically burn as a "Cl*** D" fire (i.e., combustible metal). The reaction is similar to a fireworks explosion, can create 4,500ºF sparks, and can occur when a grinder is used on ferric material (e.g., steel) prior to being used on an aluminum material or vice versa. This type of sparking and ***ociated fire hazard may be eliminated by restricting the use of a grinder to only one type of material. In the absence of that safeguard, if grinding under these cir***stances creates sparks, then it is considered hot work and a fire watch would be required under any of the cir***stances described in 1915.504(b). ------------- That being said,,,, Just have the garden hose on standby, and the saw powered thru a suitable circuit breaker and be careful.
Just get a thin kerf carbide tipped blade and cut it.... If you think about it too long, or read too many post's here, you'll get all messed up in the head. Speaking of messed up in the head, here's an aluminum cutting video from last week... http://youtu.be/DRnHvy58zDc
I cut steel with my 12" dewalt compound miter. I make cuts with a 5 to 10 second burst, not all at once. The Dewalt blades are 1" hole for the shaft and the cutoff blades are a little thick for the sqaure tubing I cut. I can go to menards and get the cheap tool shop blades and like them because are thinner than the dewalt blades and cut fine. As mentioned I like all the adjustments and accuracy using this saw over a chop saw.
I use the abrasive blade in my craftsman compound miter saw to cut steel, works fine if you dont mind all the sparks. Have been doing this for years with no noticeable problem. Also cut wood at times and still cuts OK. (with a wood blade!)
Lowe's carries a 7" blade for mild steel. I'm sure 10" and larger are available by order. I use it in a Makita circular saw and routinely cut up to 1/8" mild steel. It slices a frame rail like ****er. No sparks, just lots of very hot metal chips. The key is taking your time and letting the blade work, then letting it cool before another p***. It's faster than you expect and rushing it just burns it up. At about $60, patience is worthwhile.
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