Can anyone tell me if this is a cast, or a forged axle? It was chromed before I got it. If it can't be determined by a visual clue, how can I determine what it is? It has no markings on it anywhere. Thoughts? Thanks in advance. V.
You can tell by the irregular shape of the dropped area, where it constricted when it was drawn out. Compare to the perfect bend on a aftermarket axle.
It looks like it has been dropped (streched) and you can't do that with a cast axle, so I vote original Ford forged. Nice piece you got any more pics????? -Abone.
I'll take some pix during the daylight in the coming days....my camera isn't good with low light. Here's another 2: I was hoping it was forged, so I can run split bones without too much worry. Thanks for the ID, guys. Really appreciate it....and you made my night with this news! (I feared it was a forged axle). V
Now...Is it a Model A ('28-'31) or a '33-'36? (not that it makes much difference, other than the thickness at the wishbone bosses...Model A is 2-1/4", '33-'36 is 2".) Now you know everything.
Mike, the perch bosses are 2-1/4". Does that help ID it? And now that I'm mocking up the split bones, it looks I will have turning radius issues. So that might force me back to using the unsplit bones. (trans will be a Saginaw 4-speed).
It's a Model A, '28-'31. The turning radius is a problem with 15" or 16" stock wheels when 'bones are split, all right. Insides of tires rub the widened track of the 'bones. (in the late '50s, we would reverse the wheels, 'cuz it was 'sooo cool', and Tommy Ivo did it on his 'T'...clearance AND deep dumped wheels!) If you have to go with a stock wishbone hookup, a longer one than a Model A will be necessary, as the ball socket will have to be further back than the stock Ford location, with that Saginaw 4-spd. A '46-'48 has the 2-1/4" bosses, and the length will be far enough back that a small member (similar to a driveline loop) can be fabricated to drop down just under the tailshaft housing, and fitted with a Speedway wishbone ball socket. The small member should be flanged on the ends so it is removable. My Dad is a stock wishbone fanatic. (he's right, the geometry is correct that way) But if you want the split wishbone, and can dig reversed '50 Ford F 1 front wheels, they will offset just enough. (with 5.60-6.40 X 15 tires)
There are many ways to mount the split bones. My oldie built 32 frame had the plates coming down through slots in the lower frame flange, so the plate was welded to the back side of the side rail. Then they reversed the tapered bungs; that makes the ball end of the joint to be facing under the car. That gains a lot on the tire fit. If you don't like that look, you could mount the plate on the inside edges of the top and bottom frame flanges. It would be like the plate is welded to the inside of a boxed frame rail. Next way is to fab brackets to mount them even further inboard. that works best with some sort of K or X member. Just keep mocking, you will come up with something.
old time metallurgy trick: if you have a part like an axle that is by itself, you can hold onto the top and tap it with a hammer in the middle. If it rings, it is forged. If it is kind of dull thud, it is cast. Called a "ring test" in the old days. The reason is cat is more dampening effect than wrought. Test will not work if the part is installed like you have.
My plan is to run '35 wires. I have access to a couple of unsplit bones. If I can't get a good turning radius with the split bones, I'll try what you suggest. This is great info, thanks Mike!
well to start off with it is bot a casting. i am saying that from experience. here is why; if the unit were a casting it definately would not have the durability to handle the stresses that it gets from the road. solid axels have never been and never will ne a casting. they could be made from solid stock but that has to be a certain alloy and have a heat treatment. all spindles are forgings as well. anything attached to the parts of the suspension will be a forging. now, in the case of differentials when the center section is a casting with the axel tubes in the sides that center is made from cast steel. NOT CAST IRON......... the reason for the cast steel is it has more ductility and elasticity. it is weldable with mild steel filler rod and in the case where the differential is a removable center section those are made of cast steel also. now in the case of a 9 inch that is refered to as a nodular iron, the defination of that is as follows; it is a cast steel with a added content of nickle which gives it more elasticility and a higher durability when it comes to stress loads. back to the question at hand, the axel unit it self is a forged steel.
Wow! Talk about mis-information. Bernie, you better tell all the companies making cast steel axles, spindles, steering arms and the like that they won't take the stress of being suspension parts.
Just to clarify, nodular cast iron is called that because the excess carbon is in the form of very small spherical nodules surrounded by pure iron, as seen at the microscopic level. Not as flakes like grey cast iron has, and used in applications such as an engine block. The flakes are not surrounded by pure iron. The nodules allow for higher ductility and slightly higher strength. Cast steel does not have excess carbon so it behaves similar to wrought steel, but of course not as good mechanical properties as rolled or forged. Nickel added to any iron based material will help add toughness and ductility.
well to say, i have in my posession a pair of spindles from a late 30's early 40's willys spindles that are forged steel. and old suspension parts were forgings, like " I " beam axels were forged. forged parts have a different parting line compared to a cast parting. it is very noticable on crank shafts.
I am going to start casting aluminum axles. They will be real light. I am thinking that dead soft aluminum will be best because it will flex instead of breaking. So what do ya think fellas?
If properly made a forging has the potential to be tougher than a comparable casting. But, cast STEEL can be bent or heated and reshaped without ruining the metal. It is possible to safely cold bend some types or iron a little. It is possible to successfully heat and bend iron, but proper temps and cooling are are critical to avoid weakening and brittleness.
Aluminum heavy truck axles have been tried. I'm not sure whether they ever made production. Aluminum flexes more than steel before yielding. The fatigue properties of aluminum are not comparable to steel, and can also be less predictable. To compensate, the size/weight of aluminum parts is often dictated by fatigue requirements rather than strength.
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