I am looking for a rack and pinion that is less than 36" over all. I have heard that there is a resource that lists all racks by make and overall length but I have been unable to find it. any help would be appreciated. I did try a search and did not come up with anything.
Or use one of these .... http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0812sr_rack_and_pinion_steering/photo_07.html
Maybe you can use one of these centre steering racks if you want it to be narrow. This one is from a Saab 9-3 but I think that Cavalier have the same unit.
Thanks guys! I looked through all of the unisteer, agr, and other sites trying to find something like the above.
I bought a unit that was 15 inches hole to hole with the intention of cutting the end rods and re-threading them to length. I finally got everything mocked up to see exactly where I would be and my unit messed 45 inches end to end and I did not think I could cut out that much from the unit. so I began the search for something shorter to meet my 36 inch width needs.
I have to ask - what is this going into as far a front suspension? The overall width of the rack usually isn't going to be as important in most cases as the width between the pivot points. If your looking for a center point type rack, then that is a different deal, but what are you trying to get done?
IFS and the steering shaft will come down the drivers side of the engine. I am using s10 drop spindles that I had machined to accept mustang tie rod ends and I bought a mustang power rack and pinion. I thought I had enough length in the ends to cut them shorter and re-thread but when I mocked it up Friday it would require removing more material then I am comfortable with. So I am looking to find a unit that is either shorter over all or that has a smaller center section. Does that make sense?
Okay, Im assuming that your running a independent front suspension, possibly an S-10. But what I'm concerned about is do you know where your inner pivot points have to be? The overall width is one thing, and on the surface can easily be changed, but if your inner pivots aren't in the right place, geometry just flat goes out the window. There is allot more to hanging a rack and pinion than just the width matching the steering arms.
Hope I'm not hijacking here, but what do you do if the inner pivots of the rack are narrower than the car control arm pivot points?
I am using an s-10 front suspension under a 36 chevy truck. I was hesitant to mention that as I know it is very taboo around here. I picked the 15.5 inch center mount to center mount because it matched where the inner and outer tie rod end connected on the factory s10 steering set up. This gave me the same pivot points in the rack as the original set up. Now I am trying to back pedal and find an alternative. http://www.unisteer.com/search_by_product/bolt_in_rack_pinions/s-10/1996-04_s10_rack_only.html The above may be the way I end up having to go, but the idea of 800 minimum just sucks!
Ok, gotcha. Go back up the page and take a look at the second picture that Orn posted. That would be the easiest way to get where you want to go. Take a center point rack and make an adapter that will receive the stock inner tie rod ends. The rack is secured at the outer ends and the inside is what does the turning. The next thing to make sure of is to mount it on Exactly the same plain as the stock center link. You might have a fighting chance at that point. With out rubbing it in, did the stock steering box and grille try to occupy the same space? That's almost always the downfall of the S-10 clip. johnod, if it is a small amount, you can have a machinest make some rack extenders that will move the pivot point out. This is not ideal, but it has been done thousands of times for MustangII kits that need to be widened. Just make sure to keep them as minimal as possible.
[johnod, if it is a small amount, you can have a machinest make some rack extenders that will move the pivot point out. This is not ideal, but it has been done thousands of times for MustangII kits that need to be widened. Just make sure to keep them as minimal as possible.[/QUOTE] Not to be a pest, but what are rack extenders? It is an MII rack manual, that I'm talking about. I see how you could narrow the outer "tie rods" but not how to extend. Could you explain this, or point me to where i might find this info? Thanks John
Rack extenders screw into the inner pivot points on the rack and give a new wider location to screw the inner pivots back into. Check with companies that sell Mustang II stuff aimed at mid fifties trucks, because those are usually widened by about three to four inches. Just for reference, the lower control arm inner pivot points are 21 1/2" apart on a Mustang II, use that to compare yours to see how much yours has been widened.
Thanks for your help! yes the radiator makes the original steering impossible and leaves you with very few other steering options when you throw in the fact I am running full fenders!
You also need to pay attention to front and rear steer racks. A Cavalier rack is a rear steer unit, and I believe the Mustang II are front steer, no? A Dodge Intrepid rack is set up like the Cavalier rack, but is front steer, but I've not heard of an Intrepid that was not power steering. Just for your info. Gene
Just a question about finding pivot points. Is it better. To have them extended past the control. Arms and if so how much is to much. I am trying. To figure. This out on my shoebox as well. Sorry not trying. To hijack Thanks
Hey need louvers you need to take that cool mopar pic off your post I see it and I can not concentrate....that car is socool
mattcrp1 Boy I sure don't want to put myself in the role of ultimate rack and pinion expert, but I have dealt with fixing a few problems in years past. The answer for your situation is that the dimension for the inner pivot points is has to be right. It can't be longer to the out side or shorter to the inside. The short answer to this is to draw an imaginary line from the lower A arm inner pivot to the upper A arm's inner pivot. Your inner pivot for your rack has to fall on that imaginary line when the wheels are pointed forward and the suspension is at it's loaded ride height. The next battle is the arc of the tie rod needs to match that of the lower control arm through it's travel. Generally, the easiest way of doing that is to make the mounting points of the rack so that they keep the tie rods parallel to the lower control arm. The easiest way I have ever seen to under stand how this all will work is grab a tape measure and crawl under your vehicle with it at ride height. Measure every thing I just described and write it down. Now go to Home Depot and get your self a large chunk of cork board or ceiling tile, just something that you can push push pins into. Lay out a full sized card board mock up of all your suspension components and use the push pins for hinge points. Move your card board suspension through all of it's movements and see what happens... Check out what happens when you move the rack beyond that imaginary line I was talking about. I have seen so many cars with added on rack and pinions that when you bounce the suspension through it's travel, you can watch the tires change toe by as much as a half inch! That's why this cardboard engineering project is vital. I learned allot about how all of this stuff works the first time my buddy ELpolacko and I did this. It whet my appitite to learn more about suspension and how it functions and what makes it better. Thanks rosco gordy! My beater loves the compliments! Hopefully next summer I'll finally take ride up to your neck of the woods in it again... Got tons of family in St. Paul!
I just saw the thread, read the first couple answers and shuddered , I'm real pleased 'needlouvres' got involved . .
The Jalopy Journal
