Well like all old cars with unique engines, the male female fittings for the rubber hose are an off size of br*** fitting, flaps is no help in getting it replaced. Gotta wait for the Buick parts places to open again on Monday.
sounds like you should redo the whole fuel system, and get on that carb rebuild. sounds like your fuel lines are original, i say replace them, the the pickup. and get the fuel tank hot tank or a new one. i know its pricy but a new fuel system is good piece of mind if its a daily like you say it is.
Totally bizarre, I have been driving this thing for 2 years straight and now.... I have the fuel pump replaced, replaced the line that was rotted. Got it fired up. Got it running on it's own. It has a slight miss and popping in the exhaust only, idling very smooth. May be a fouled plug. Not quite sure. Well now it appears that the solenoid is acting up. I am getting power through the circuit. It does not pop off. I can cross the terminals and get the starter to run and I can cross the terminal and get the solenoid to pop off, but nothing when I go to start it.. grrrrrr when it rains around here it effin pours.
Since all this started right after you put in 10 gallons of fuel, I would be very tempted to drain the fuel tank, and refill with fuel from a name brand station. Jon.
The fuel issue has been resolved with the replacement of the pump and the discovery of severe dry rot on the factory rubber hose between engine and frame. The big concern now is the irregular popping in the exhaust at idle. It's either a bad plug or a burned valve. Behaves like a slight miss.
If the dollar bill on the exhaust trick is legitimate, then I do not have a burnt valve. There was constant pressure out the pipe, nothing was pulled into the exhaust.
IT is idling at a nice rpm, but the exhaust still sounds like a muffled pop corn.. Random popping. I'd guess it has a slight miss. Maybe new coil and wires? Maybe check timing? I will drive it tomorrow to work, see how it goes.
Just a thought ,have you looked for excessive play/wear in the Dist. shaft. Pop the cap and with the points wide open mofe the rotor/shaft and see how much the point gap changes. I've seen working dist. with enought play that you could open/close the points by moving the shaft. And it is not unheard of for one or more of the cam lobes to be worn enought for the points not to open every revolution = random miss.
I used to have a 53 Riv it used to get vapor lock and did exactly what you described. Then on my 50 Sedanette a small flap on the inside of the fuel hose did a similar thing, Good luck, Rags
Ok, ran GREAT last night, very slight miss that I am working out. Plenty of power thanks to new fuel pump. She was pulling hard. Now for the big favor...does anyone have a photo of the carter carb on their straight 8? I need to fix the spring on the fast idle cam.. I need to see how it hooks up to function properly. Thanks!