Register now to get rid of these ads!

Exhausted.....(lame assed pun)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NAES, Sep 22, 2011.

  1. NAES
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 491

    NAES
    Member

    I got the exhaust system made for my wagon and there is a noticable leak at the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe union. I tried tightening it down to the point of bending the flange and it still leaks. I've never had an issue like this come up before but then again I havn't messed with too many V8's.

    Are there any oldtimer tricks out there I can try before taking it back and seeing what the deal is? I'm thinking I'll take the manifolds off and make sure they are smooth at the union and try putting it back on. Is there any sort of sealant or gasket that has proven itself in the past?

    Thanks all, NAES
     
  2. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,999

    George
    Member

    You might need a doughnut gasket...
     
  3. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,588

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    i have banged in a short piece of pipe that fits tightly in the manifold and goes into the pipe far enough to bridge the joint.
     
  4. pcterm2
    Joined: Aug 25, 2009
    Posts: 551

    pcterm2
    Member

    if memory serves me right 2" should be gm part number
    3731062.hope it helps you

    i think the 2 1/2 is a FPG 9587 napa part number
     
  5. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,772

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    I have successfully used High Temp Copper Silicone on both manifold to exhaust pipe, headers to block, and headers to exhaust pipe seals.
     
  6. NAES
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 491

    NAES
    Member

    Sweet. All good solutions. Ill dive under there and see what i can make work.

    Thanks all. As usual you all have the answers.
     
  7. DaddyO's..Deuce
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 786

    DaddyO's..Deuce
    Member
    from Missery




    $ Remember forgiveness is always easier than permission $
    X2 all I have used for 15 years now and never had a leak yet.
     
  8. Jack60
    Joined: Nov 25, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Jack60
    Member
    from Maryland

  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    If it's a stock Chevy manifold and a flared pipe, you need a donut, and if you use a composite donut (not cast iron) then you also need a short piece of tube inside the donut to keep it from collapsing. A lot of folks don't know about the inner tube...they fight leaks for years
     
  10. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,092

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

    Exactly right My Son's '66 Nova with a small block w/rams horns
    needed that tube in the head pipe to seal properly!;)
     
  11. NAES
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 491

    NAES
    Member

    I should have been more specific. Im running a chrysler 360 with stock manifolds. Ill look for a donut and if that doesnt work ill use the silicone.
     
  12. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,092

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

    Silicone won't work!
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    If it's a flat flange, then you need to make sure the flange on the pipe is thick enough so it wont bend, and that it's perfectly flat. Use a steel core graphite type gasket, or perhaps one of the formed copper ones.

    If it's a ball and socket type joint with a flared tube, you need to get the flare shaped right, or it won't seal.


    btw it does help to give all the details the first time...
     
  14. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    One word of caution... Chrysler exhaust manifolds are much more prone to warping than the other brands. Get a 3 foot piece of fuel or air hose, Put one end to your ear and move the other end all around the gasket surfaces at the head and the down pipe. You will be able to locate exactly where the leak is. You cannot tell exactly where the leak is by just looking down at it.

    If you find out that it is at the head surface send the manifolds out to a machine shop for surfacing. The shop that I used had a large table top belt sander that was used to flatten the gasket surface at a very reasonable price. Just replacing the gasket is only a temporary fix until the new one burns out too.

    Never a problem with GM and Ford manifolds but Chrysler's were a problem.

    BTW when I was asked how is the muffler business... I always answered exhausting!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.