spraying new old stock paint?

I just copied and pasted both of those tutorials into a text file, so I can't lose them. That's exactly the kind of info I was hoping to find out.

 

Liquid Ebony!! I still have an NOS bottle of that stuff on my shelf. That stuff brings old nitro lacquer back to life, that's for sure!

 

I got 5 pints of acrylic in the closet and it says 3:1. That is how we always thinned it when I was a kid. of course that was 40 or so years ago maybe with global warming and all.

 

One post on here showed where he'd used a urethane clear coat to get it to shine. In your opinion(s), should I consider that, since (I'm ***umming) it'd be easier to upkeep?

 

DO NOT use a urethane clear coat to get it to shine. The urethane is a catilized product and is very stable, the laquere moves with the heat of the sun and WILL cause the surface to crack.

 

Well, then. Glad I didn't do that. Lol.

Is there a clear that I can use, or is it more trouble than it's worth?

 

You going to finish that steak ?im hungry hahah

 

Go back to what Chopolds said in his last paragraph.

One great thing is the ability to do spot repairs to the car. If you run clear, you can't do a spot, you'd have to do the whole panel and then reclear.

 

The way this post started out I thought you guys were going to flame this guy. Kudos for helping him out and schooling the rest of us. Thats whats so great about the HAMB. You can just click on a topic and learn a thing or two.

 

I had my car painted in 1972 with lacquer. There was a little left over. I sprayed the leftover in about 1990 or so and it came out fine.The can had been opened but evidently it was sealed up pretty good.

 

I really do appreciate that you guys took the time to help me out. I know it's not what a lot of you guys would do, but I'm glad that members here were able to provide good advice, rather than just dismissing the idea as *****ic. Lol

And that is a good point on the single stage being able to melt in repairs. I hadn't considered that.

 

OK. I remember when urethane paints first came out, they sold clears for putting over lacquer. I believe they might just have called them 2K clears. I did a few cars with it, but never saw the long term effects of it....just regular cars that eventually got sold, and resold....
They also used to give you directions on how to put Centari (acrylic enamel) over lacquer. Never did that, Centari was considered a kind of cheap paint, so I never considered putting it over lacquer.
Also, HOK made custom paints in lacquer and they said you could put their urethane clear over it, if you were carefull. I don' remember exactly what the criteria was, maybe a long dry time before clearcoating? I did a few of them, too. They seemed to hold up well.
Lastly, my old boss and mentor , used to put clear Imron over some of his fancy lacquer jobs, to protect artwork on MC tanks, and also on race cars, again,, to protect the paint from rock chips, spilled fuel, guys laying on the cars working.... can't attest to the longevity of these jobs, either, but it WAS done back in the day.

 

I remember shooting acrylic lacquer and usually starting at 150% reduction. Nitro probably 100%. I would shake those stude cans good and empty them in new containers and shake em again. If it looked ok I would put on my official studebaker coveralls and hat, and shoot that puppy. JMO

 

...pretty sure I have some studebaker socks and boxers, too, but that might be overkill, right?

 

We will get my Grandson to hold the studebaker hand held foglight when we shoot the lower body.

 

Why not shoot the car in newer paint thats durable.

Use the original paint on a spare fender or something for some great garage art that wont see the sun, display the cans next to the art and be happy.

spend your time driving the car instead of rubbing it out.

 

Because I'm crazy, that's why. Lol

My father has, or maybe had, a studebaker floor buffer. Gotta make the floors around it shiny, too, right?

In all seriousness, though, I am looking for a pre war 'stude grill (preferably pre 1937 or so) for another project, if, in the off chance, someone knows of one rotting in a field somewhere. Doesn't really matter which one, and doesn't have to be in good shape. I'd be using it for templates to replicate it, then hanging the original on a wall.

There's a '27 or so on ebay, but 1300 dollars seems, well, retarded and far out of my price range.

 

Paint it. Two wet coats. Wax and buff as needed for a few years. This will produce the kind of patina that can't be replicated ant other way.

 

Did you go through with the paint job yet? I hope you can get some pics if you do, I'm interested in seeing the results. Kudos for trying something unique & original!

 

Right on the money! A few things to add, I would also use a slower thinner on the last coats to melt in the overspray a little better and smooth it out, also depending on the job i would mix 30% clear in with the final coats as it would bring the depth out like no tomorrow when it was buffed out.

I remember using the lacquer candys and pearls and coating them with 2k clear but the holdout was gone in a few years. I like the paints of today, i just hate the toxicity and smell of them.

 

Hey,

I don't beleave Stubakers were painted in lacquer, atleast not in the 50's & 60's, maybe synthetic & later acrylic enamel, but not lacquer What you may have is paint that was ment to be used for touch ups in shop conditions, but not factory production lines.

What Chopolds suggested is the path I'd take if you chose to shoot lacquer, although I wouldn't suggest overclearing with epoxy or urethane. These are three completely different paint products that over time will not ''play well together ''

The great thing 'bout lacquer is that you really don't have to be much of a painter to get good results with it-kinda like today's urethanes that only require someone who can cut & buff a finish

I shot most of my lacquer through a Binks 62 Model @ 45# air pressure with 150-175% thinning. Shot five to six coats & allowed to flash for up to a month, sanded with 400 & another six to eight coats with the last couple knocked up with a retarder for good flow. Again, allowed to flash for up to a month & blocked with 600 & dish soap, cut with wool bad, medium cut compound DuPont 303? & finished up with "Liquid Ebony" & three-four coats of carnuba wax ( Harley).

Oh, and to all the " why bother, jus' shoot it in urethane croud" park a properly shot, cut & polished nitro or acrylic lacquer paint job next to a cut & buffed overcleared urethane job and you'll have answered the question.......................not even close to the same animal!

" Humpty Dumpty was pushed "

 

hahahaha

 

Thats because this thread started out with a few guys blowing smoke out of thier ***es. And where theres smoke...well, you know the rest...

 

So true...