"Pick and File" technique, how about some how-to and proper tools needed?

After looking thru Fomocokid's amazing thread on his '36 build and others on here like B***, Da Tinman, and Flop come to mind I would like to know more about this part of sheet metal work that I have honestly never been able to grasp. I can get two panels together well enough to "skim it out" and look good but to be able to make it virtually undetectable is outside my abilities and would like to know more. Tools you guys use, some up close "progress" shots, whatever.
I'm sure there are countless members on here that would love to know more about this talent only a few seem to have a handle on....BobbyD

 

For me more then ever tight gaps that are perfectly flush .and by tight I mean tight.not harbor freight panel gapper tight. Then check the crown/ contour .I use a piece of tig rod shows ya everything .once that's spot on start welding.when I tig you can't burn the puddle in to much or you are gonna leave the under cut.so ya gotta leave the weld just a hair proud to get it to blend. I grind with a 5 inch disc 36 grit on an electric sanders.about 3500 rpms. Most of tje time this gets ya pretty close. Get your favorite hammer and dolly that's applicableto the job bring your low spots up.I use a vixen file.run it accross the panel shows your mistakes.bring up the low spots shrink the high spots check the crown with the tig rod repeat to your blue in the face.hope that helps bobby.

 

I use a regular old half round file lightly to find the highs and lows. I use a bullseye pick to lightly and slowly bring up the lows. I will bring up a lot of the lows and then run over the entire panel with the shink disc. The disc will also show you the lows too as it leaves a kinda dark scale on the highs. I go back and forth between the shrink disc and the bullseye as many times as I need to until I am satisfied. My car is a '35 by the way. Hope this helps

 

Many thanks guys, that helps somewhat to understand a little more about the process. Fomocokid, sorry about the mix-up on the '35, I had a little brain fade as I have looked thru your post a dozen times and knew it was a '35....
"When I tig you can't burn the puddle in to much or you are gonna leave the under cut.so ya gotta leave the weld just a hair proud to get it to blend." Flop, thats where I go wrong at times as I tig as well (most of the time) but always seem to have that "valley" and can't get a blend. And filing I always leave file marks and I go in a cross pattern but its still more than 80 grit will hide, maybe try some 36 lightly. And my files are the flat and half round that comes with a Eastwood lead kit, good, bad, something else work better??
Not to give you two the big head, but both of you do some outstanding work that I can only hope to aspire to someday, but at 57 my days are running out so I better get with it.
Thanks again, I really thought this thread might take off as I know there's got to be a lot of guys on here wanting to know more about this.........BobbyD

 

bobby : dont be afraid to wail on that weld as well . tig is way more forgiving then the mig. i mean its still a weld but if your metal is still thick and not overworked and thin you should be ok. but some times i really give it to a weld seam if it shrunk to raise it back up . i use a vixen file primarily thats flat or this weird half round file i have as well when the flat file wont cut it.i never have to many problems with file marks after i hit it with 36 on the low rpm sander. but it all starts with controlling the weld in the beginning in my opinion.some times its damn near impossible to get the undercut out without adding more filler. i have about 2 years under my belt with the tig you have plenty of time bobby. anything else ya wanna know ask away!!!

 

Bobby, thanks for starting this thread, it will be a good one.