Hi just rebuilt my engine 350 with what I think are trickflow heads it had erson roller rockers I just had the block honed and replaced all bearings in the motor rings and thats it rebuilt the carb and the cam is what I beleive to be erson as well I have some ticking on the p***enger side but when I put the rockers back on there just seemed to be no resistance to the rocker when I tightened it back to what it was when I pulled them what would be the torque setting I cant dind anything on that on the driver side I tried to adjust when running and it seemed there was no difference tight or loose same sound
Valve adj isn't a matter of torque, it is a preload of the plunger inside the lifter (if hyd). You should be able to back off each adj nut till it clatters, then tighten it back up until it quits, then gradually give it another 1/4 to 3/4 turn. If the nut turns freely on the stud, I would replace it with a new crimped style locknut. If the sound doesn't change, keep tightening it till it quiets down, dont go any farther, then shut down the engine and see if that nut is down on the stud any farther than the rest- if it is you may have a collapsed plunger on one lifter. It may pay to install a new set of lifters at this point. Also do not use "modern oils" to break in a new cam od or lifters, it lacks the zinc and moly to keep the lobes from wiping off. If it is available in your area use Brad Penn oil- it is formulated for older engines/cams/lifters and has the zinc and moly in it still. This was removed from modern oils to keep from fouling catalysts. Once the parts have a few oil changes on them, you can switch back to modern oils since the break in is past and wear patterns are now established. I presume you don't have an exhaust leak at the manifold, headers or flanges or flanges, since this can cause a sound that is very similar to tappet noise. Many roller rockers use a nut that has an allen lock insde of it...once the adjustment is made, tighten the allen screw inside the nut onto the top of the stud and this locks it.
I checked the covers cause one had a ding in it but no hit I have also taken off the valve cover to loosen the nuts and see if there was any change and there wasnt any the nut does not have a center allen it doesnt seem like the adjustment thats usually there when I tighten the nut it stops it seems like if there were any adjustment you would have to use shims under the rocker keep the info and Ideas comming though I need to figure this out.
Do you have good oil flow through the push rods when you run with the valve cover off? If not, you might try loosening the rocker to give the lifter ba chance to pump up. Do the heads have screw in studs and push rod guide plates? Are the rockers bottoming out against the stud or the head, or are the nuts bottoming on the threads.
good oil flow and I took the covers off again and backed off till I heard a tick then tightened a little more than a quarter quite again then put the cover back on there **** covers so you can hear everything it seems to get louder when I put it in gear
If its a lifter that wont pump up, with it running, tap (LIGHTLY) the pushrod side of the rocker with a hammer.
Check the flex plate again. Jack the car up and listed from under the car the sound may seam to be coming from the bottom. If so check the flex plate.
the problem with checking the flexplate is it has a cover the only way to get it off is to take the exhaust off which is a big pain in the a** Its on a 49 coupe shoebox.I think that after all Ive done today I may need to take it to someone and make sure that I didn't f something up just spent a lot of money on it and I don't want to make it worse by fn with it to much I did just put the motor in and If I can pay a couple bucks and its fixed then thats better than having to get a new topend cause I don't know what to look for. any more ideas would be awesome though.
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