Hi Guys, I need some ideas please. I am building a 32 Ford Tudor Sedan and need some ideas and photos as to how to do a nice job of cutting the firewall to suit a small block chevy motor. From what I can see right now the firewall needs to be recesses about 3 inches, but I want to keep as much original steel as possible, maybe two vertical cuts and a bit of bending..........HELP ME PLEASE
Usually, you only need a recess by distributor cap. Some firewall stampings need the lower leg trimmed on the right side to clear cylinder head and back of block. Depends on firewall design. Henry made a number of different stampings. May have to trim around bellhousing, depends on the installed heighth of your motor. Footboards usually need a redo to clear engine, again depends on how motor is set in. Might want to look at Roy Brizios web site for ideas, great construction photos of 32s. Good luck.
Check out Direct Sheetmetal. You can buy a firewall from them or, if you're up for it, at least get some ideas to build your own. I have a '32 sedan with sbc and all it took was a dimple for the distributor and a trim at the footboard. http://www.directsheetmetal.com/pages/ourproducts.html
I just cut the firewall where it bends out towards the engine so that the firewall just continues straight on down so that I got to keep the original beads at the top. I don't care for the aftermarket recessed firewalls. The inside look.
I have built quite a number of deuces and the only thing I have done is trim the bottom in the center to clear the trans. If the P&J motor mounts are installed like the instructions you need a small distributor. If you choose to raise the motor slightly you can use an HEI without a dist. notch, It will have about 3/8 inch of firewall clearance. I use a Walker Cobra radiator either with or without the air condensor depending on the car and on all of them I use a 5 blade non flex fan I get from Speedway and a Walker shroud and I have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of fan clearance. I set the motor with about 1/4 inch clearance on the right head. Another small trick I have used is on the right side of the firewall there is an area where the toeboard goes up to that comes to a point and I slice this spot with a cutoff and work it back to gain about 1/2 inch and nobody knows. If you looked at my current 3 window, PU or the delivery I'm building you cannot see any firewall modifications. Another thing I always do is use Energy Suspensions urethane motor mounts to limit engine movement. I have never tryed the Zips water pump setup.
My firewall is cut back so I could run a Chevy HEI distributor. My engine is set back a little further than most because I have a mechanical clutch fan on my 32. I am a big fan of the ZIPS water pump riser. Go here to see how/why http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=3880&page=5&perpage=5&reverse=1 Both my 32's have the ZIP ... as well as most of my 32 Ford friends. They cost around $225 ... which is not inexpensive, BUT you also get the alternator and A/C brackets built on to the housing. The fan is 5 and 1/2 inches higher than the original location ... and now you can use a 16/17/18 inch mechanical fan.
Here is a friends 32 firewall Another friends firewall Here are two more ... cut the same way and BOTH have the ZIPs water pump riser. Here is a in progress 32 5W ... with the firewall cut that way and a ZIPS water pump riser.
Why would you butcher a good fire wall to install a SBC in a 32 Ford thay fit with any cutting. thats why we use them
I have done a few and never cut an original firewall. HEI distributors won't clear. The water pump riser is recommended if you choose to not use electric fan. I have sbc to 39 tran and original wood floor, not into automatics. Some bell housing adapters need the top center ear whacked off to clear bottom of firewall. My old 5W shown has a stock 265 powerpack and 39 tran with 32 rear tran mount to original K member.
You might check out member Elpolacko's current thread "building a MFing hot rod" here on the H.A.M.B. The last page or two of this large thread has some pictures of how he and his crew handled this task, and it is damn cool.
I forgot to say, I have the engine set back a little so the firewall definately needs cutting, I have a Tri-Power and a Joe Hunt Magneto, Ram Horn cast manifolds. Thanks for the great pictures so far, there are some neat ideas.
You say BUTCHER ... I say modify. It is called Hot Rodding Like I said, I wanted to use a Chevy HEI. SO I cut it. It is just metal ... not some sacred, precious rare item.
My last cdan had an original FW that had a flat panel from the middle down and narrowed legs. Could only run the small Mallory dizzy but I loved the semi original look. All gloss black helped as well. Latest cdan has a Direct Metal FW. Uninspiring.
I know I'll get some flak, but it's a shame to cut a nice '32 firewall in this day and age. There are plenty of 'um out there that have already been cut up/modified over the years. Considering the '32 firewall is a bolt-in, rare because of a low/unique and VERY popular production year, and the fact there are several aftermarket models, including an exact reproduction, available for less than what a nice original can be sold for, makes it a shame to alter (notice I did not say BUTCHER...) another original one. I'll go hide now...
Just did mine this weekend. Pretty much how HRP did it. I had to recess mine due to where i placed the motor/trans in the ch***is. Tony
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