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Steering U Joint Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Clik, Oct 7, 2011.

  1. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

    I've got a 5/8" 36 spline X 3/4" Double D, bolt on Steering U-Joint and need something shorter and less bulky due to clearance issues. It's hard to tell in pictures but I was wondering if anyone knows of something a little more compact?
    [​IMG]

    The U-Joints offered by Sweet look more compact but maybe it's just the pic.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,430

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

    What way is it a clearance issue,long or wide[round]?
    That way we got something more to work with for ya!
     
  3. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

    The shank of the black steel joint pictured is right up against number 1 plug. If I weld the shaft in I can do away with the bolt and get a little closer but the joint angle is severe enough that it exceeds a comfortable working angle. If the shank was narrower it would help and if it was short enough it might be even better. The black one pictured is 3-3/4" long all together.
     
  4. gsport
    Joined: Jul 16, 2009
    Posts: 677

    gsport
    Member

    what's it on?? rack & pinion?? when i put my r&p on my 50, i had to cut the rack mount and rotate the rack to get the clearance i needed.....
     
  5. micky69
    Joined: Dec 24, 2010
    Posts: 288

    micky69
    Member
    from Ohio

    Those are similar to our moly joints, they are about as narrow as your going to find. They have a 35* max angle. Can you shorten the shaft to get it away from your plug issue?
     
  6. Da' Bomb
    Joined: Apr 8, 2005
    Posts: 438

    Da' Bomb
    Member

    Can you add another shaft and joint to get away from the plug? Could use a mock up picture here.....
     
  7. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

    It's on a straight axle Henry J and I've got the engine set back and low in the frame. I was too concerned with properly setting up drive line angles and steering geometry. I didn't realize the bulk of the Steering U-Joint. It's the first joint off the Vega box so there's no shortening a shaft. I might try one of the slim looking double joints and see if that gives me more clearance or wait for Speedway's Tech to open on Monday and give me a measurement on the other style stainless joint # 910-290.
     
  8. I don't believe I've seen any steering joints smaller than the type you showed us.

    It sounds like your solution may lie in tipping the Vega box back a few degrees. Since that will require reworking the box mount you might also consider moving the box mount outward a half inch or so. Either may provide enough clearance.

    Charlie
     
  9. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

    OK, thanks folks. I'll work something out on Monday when I can get some measurements from Speedway.
     
  10. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    You might look at a 525 steering box. It's a little bigger than the Vega box, but the input shaft is quite a bit longer. It might move the joint away from the plug.
    Depending on the engine, you can also get shorter spark plugs that might help.
    Larry T
     
  11. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

    I can lower this box or tilt it a bit but I didn't want to have to fab a new mount if I could just get a shorter profile joint.
     
  12. When I first mounted my Vega box I had the same problem, it was to close to the engine and I had Header clearance issues. I set the mount on the frame, traced it, cut the frame and inset the mount, welded it all up and i had a 1/4" to spare. Heres a couple of pics. As you can see I also had to tip the mount down in the rear to get it to clear the motor mount.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. You might get away with building an extension for the shaft splines. Take the splined end of the ujoint and weld a short shaft to it to move the actual ujoint up and away from the box a little (no more than absolutely necessary). Sounds a little sketchy but if done right it works fine.
     

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