Car trailer brakes info request

What's the skinny on trailer surge vs elec brake systems?.

I've been looking to take my car to "test & tune" nights and there's no local tracks. Picked up a car trailer that had sat for @ 10 years in a wet field. The trailer was covered with green mold, tires dry rotted out and most steel parts rusted from sitting in dampness. It has brakes on front axle. The brakes are hydraulic surge system and looks like animal gnawed thru flex hose from frame to axle causing surge MC/coupler setup to rust internally and breakaway is missing anyway. Surge MC/coupler systems are available for @ $150- drums at least need cutting and may need whl cyl's .

I could refurb surge brake system but is it worth converting to electric?. I never had a trailer with brakes and need qualified info.


Trailer is 1990 compact aluminum bolted extrusion weighing just @ 800 lbs. It's 75" between fenders 11' bed and 13" wheels built for towing mid to small cars behind an SUV. The loading ramps were stolen and need replacing. The rotted tires were removed and mounted a nice set of 13" Michelin's left from my '61 Comet build . My 6 cylinder 1/2ton Pickup easily towed a Camry on it for a trial run (without brakes) . Winter's approaching and planning for spring racing season .


Thankz - Have Fun

 

Electric brakes are nice, get a good controller. You can buy the parts for one axle for a couple hundred bucks.

I drove my 55 1200 miles to Drag Week last month, then drove 1300 miles in 4 days racing every day too, then drove 1200 miles home. Why do YOU need a trailer?

 

Electric brakes are way better but you need to invest in a controller and wiring. For tow vehicles made in the last 15 years or so, you can buy a wiring harness that plugs into your vehicle.

You can buy a brand new axle with brakes, bearings etc for around $150 bucks. Controller for under $100.

Good trailer brakes are important, not only to stop but for control. When braking on a curve, on a hill, or if the trailer sways you must have trailer brakes to maintain control. Any car trailer is too heavy to do without them especially when loaded.

 

its hard to imagine on a trailer that size and weight that electric brakes would not fit the need.

 

As a retired trailer mfg.---I can tell you this----On a tandem axle trailer, NEVER put brakes on FRONT axle only!!---Always on the rear axle!---If you are using a 1 brake system.
From the sound of your condition, get rid of the whole hyd. actuator mess, including brake lines, backing plates,drums, & start with all new parts, fill the system with dot 3 fluid. hand pump actuator to fill all lines to wheel cylinders, have someone pop the bleeder valve at furtherest cyl. until air & steady flow is eveident.
Refill actuator, continue to bleed at next nearest cyl.---Repeat until all is free from air & good flow.
Refill actuator---& you are good to go!
Always hook breakaway cable to your solid mounted hitch ***y. where safety chains connect.

If you are going to use electric braking method, have unit installed at your RV dealer, along with a 6 or 7 hole connecting plug.
As far as the trailer goes, as mentioned above, replace all electric brake ***y's. & start with new backing plates,magnets,etc. this will eliminate all potential electric problems down the line!
If critters have chewed up some equipt.---At this point I would highly suggest replacing all wiring, not only to your brakes--But to all lighting too.
Be sure to ground all wiring to the trailer itself, usually up by the hitch ***y.
Most trailer brake problems (& electrical) are due to a simple BAD GROUND!!
Later, after using your electric braking system for a few thousand miles, pull the hubs & check drum rotors for excessive "Grooves" also on the magnets.
If rotors & magnets are both smooth---That means they are working just fine!
If not, have the rotors turned & replace magnets only.

hope this helps!!!--------Don

 

If you don'tin plan on replacing all of the current components you will in the end. Hydraulic brakes are inherently need of work every year or two.

Do yourself a favor and go electric, very easy to diagnose a problem down the road and you will have control of them at any time.

Feel free to give a call for advice.

Joe, owner of Joes Truck & Trailer Supply
541-746-0646

 

Thanks for the help now I can weigh my options ...

PB

 

Since that trailer has set for ten years in a wet field, you are going to be replacing more parts as you use it.
You may be money ahead to get a good trailer that you can use now.

 

Rusty, I know you spoke from experience !!!!!!!!!!!!! scrubba

 

the great thing about electric brakes is, you can buy the hole unit already set up on the backing plate, just unbolt the old plate (4 bolts) and bolt the new one up. Man is it easy.

 

Since no one else mentioned it... Those tires from your build may not be suitable as trailer tires, especially on a dual axle. Dual axles put quite a strain on the sidewalls - notice how they move during a tight turn - they twist and drag. Also check the load rating of your tires versus the load rating on a same-sized trailer-specific tire.

 

The drum that is used for either brakes are the same as far as diameter and bearings and shoe surface contact area, however a hydraulic brake doesn't need the smooth surface for the magnet to engage against like an electric brake does. Every once in a while when we convert hydraulics to electrics, we have to replace the drum as well because it didn't have the surface for the magnet.

Joe

 

Try www.redneck-trailer.com These guys have most everything at fair prices and give good advice.

 

Lots of input on the subject, but maybe there is room for just one more..
I have towed a lot of trailers with hydraulic surge brakes... They are a must for anything that goes in the water.. like boats. Rental trailers usually have surge brakes because the renters tow vehicle is not generally equipped with an electric controller.
My first car/utility trailer had surge brakes because I did not want to install an electric controller in my truck.. The old electric controllers had to be intergrated with the hydraulic system.
I found that with a surge brake system, one or two high speed stops and/or towing in the mountains burnt the brake system up. Every trailer I have had for the past ten years has had electric brakes, which have given me very little trouble.

 

I had the occation to be pulling a house trailer and my lead car pulled quickly into a side street. I followed under heavy brake presure and the trailer started to jacknife.

I released the truck brakes and pulled hard on the electric controler, locking up the trailer brakes. This strightened out the whole rig and prevented a jack knife.
You coulden't do this with surge brakes.

Ps, Surge brakes are illegal on comericial trailers in some states.