Hell yes Kid, nice work. Nice pics too. I was messin' around with some similar stuff today, love that quick dab pattern. Hot and fast. Super consistent. Maybe I'll get some vids done one of these day. Thanks for the kind words.
I wanna see some welds on thin sheet metal, like rust holes... These welds are perfect on here, mine on the other hand are never to pretty. However I don't do a lot of thick metal seam welding.
Not much incredible about welding rust holes. Weld and metal finish, right? The incredible part is keeping distorting to a minimum and blowing through as little as possible. Cool(and very useful) tricks, but not really "weld porn" material. This isn't too thick... Here's some thinner stuff. Junk shims taken off a water jet table. http://watchtheprettylight.tumblr.com/post/5829063999/thin-junk Here's a sculpture I did of a '33 Ford. All scrap sheet metal, some thin galvanized too. Not easy to weld. I weld on a lot of junk for my art stuff. http://www.flickr.com/photos/browndogwelding/sets/72157623696837422/with/4463052167/
I have about 30 years worth of .028,.035 and .049 wall thickness welding aircraft fuselages and components. My latest "must have " accessory is the wireless foot pedal from Miller. Pricey but I absolutely love it. It's quite a treat to get to weld thicker material as used in car building. On rust repair and patch panels I have been using my ox/acet. torch almost as much as my Mig.
vertical mig on 66 chevy body.....how do you upload video....i have one of me doing body work with a mig(poping out dents and distortion repair)???
Holly crap... theres some incredible work! That aluminum plate with the weaved lap is intense! A video is a great idea indeed, I'd love to see that.
That is a Bearhawk Patrol. Similar to a Piper Super Cub. Very strong structure designed for off airport enviroments/bush flying. Jdustu, the foot pedal spring tension is a little less. The elimination of the cord opens up a whole new way to work around cumbersome structures.
what is being shown in the video is called stress relieving. what is being done is the metal is heated with the weld that has been put in aspecific place. when the metas was hot it was expanded and as it colled it started to shrink. the shrinking is what caused the indentation to pop out like it did. that was a good demonstration i just wish who ever did that gave the explanitation of the process.
it was me,,,,and i was waiting for someone to ask;-) i didnt wanna ramble on if no one was interrested.... but you nailed it....and its so simple its scary..;-) Welding involves highly localized heating of the metal being joined together. The temperature distribution in the weldment is therefore nonuniform. Normally, the weld metal and the heat affected zone (HAZ) are at temperatures substantially above that of the unaffected base metal. Upon cooling, the weld pool solidifies and shrinks, exerting stresses on the surrounding weld metal and HAZ. If the stresses produced from thermal expansion and contraction exceed the yield strength of the parent metal, localized plastic deformation of the metal occurs. Plastic deformation results in lasting change in the component dimensions and distorts the structure. This causes distortion of weldments.
good response. may i make a suggestion? the next time you do a video like that or something related to why it is being done or how is this happening, give an explination about the relationship of what you did and why. your video was very good and if i were teaching i would use that. without the explination to go with it dose not pass along the complete message. i am willing to say if you could put together a searies of thing like that you could sell them and folks tackling their own body work could benifit from what you are demonstrating. remember give good verbal explinations.
i may do something like that....i have lots of vids and tricks,,,i havnt shared yet ,,,(for job security)...lol....
Posted a few pics of my Sunday earlier: http://watchtheprettylight.tumblr.com/post/9799241637/sunday-morning-walk
Here is some .035 wall 4130 tube. I use a Meco Midget torch and RG 45 rod for gas welding 4130. Pics. are rudder pedals for a '41 Piper Cub. The primered one is an original. I really enjoy gas welding, it's nice just holding the torch and rod and not fool with a heavy welding hood and a foot pedal.
Hell yeah! I used to do a lot of brazing, your damn right about not messing with a hood and everything. I havn't done it in ages... gotta blow the dust of the ol torch and give it a go. Got any sheet metal work?
That video is neat as fu*k! Im assuming that this would only work on a "Sprung" type of dent (No creases? makes sense to me. Im begining to understand how metal reacts, but never thought about using shrinkage for something like that. Cool man! Learnin....
This is my feelings as well. Ive gone through every page of this thread, Just awesome stuff. I work in aviation (Not as a welder) but i see very high quality stuff on our parts. ALOT of your guys stuff kicks it ass I love welding. I only have a Lincoln Weld-pak 100 right now , But i try to burn alotta wire. You guys are a true inspiration. Im gonna look into some classes here at the CC. My friends dad does structual welding for a drilling company, maybe ill get cert'd up and go for it Building stuff is cool. Keep it up! helps me keep the bacon sizzlin in my workshop.
Awesome thread. Some amazing welds for sure. An art to be appreciated. Yes. Definitely time to practice.
Dont touch!!! Still warm.... These are just some side boxes for an enduro KTM. Here is a small gas can I made up for a guy. Ended up polished and all that flashy jazz. The material I made the handle and neck from was a poor quality alloy, didn't want to flow worth a damn... Got some proper color out of mild steel! Pretty amped about that! But yet again, shit quality material :/ And can anyone tell me why I'm getting this color on the start of the weld? It's only happened on these particular, aluminum bits, quite frequently actaully on the last set I did. Never through the whole weld, at the end, or anything else, just at the beggining. Its a bugger to catch on the camera but it's a nice blue color. Never seen anything like it...
Browndog, or one ofthe other magicians I have a question. At work we needed to tigweld on a stainless frame containing strong magnets that could not be removed. What is the secret way to do this? It really put on a light show!! Best we result was with HF and AC.
If you figure it out, let me know. magnetic fields REALLY mess with the arc. AC will have the best results because you're constantly flipping...one of the tricks to eliminating/minimalizing arc blow while stick welding is running AC. Another one is moving the ground, or wrapping the grounding wire around the work piece.
We tried stick, looked just as bad. Tried moving the ground REAL close didn't help either, didn't try wrapping it. It's fun to watch with another hood, at least you get to laugh at your buddy. Kind of looked like a thunder storm, arcs going everywhere. Thanks for all your inspirational pics, ALL of you that can really weld. Some of these samples look like true artwork.
the problem is with the polarity. to start off with if dc arc welding is the choise to do what has to be done then take the lead with the stinger on it and make a couple of coils and encircle the area to be welded. this will set up a field for the area and should stabilize the arc. remember the arc is a controled short circuit. next watch the arc length, keep it as short as possible that will eliminate or at least cut down on the arc blow that is the current problem. another suggestion would be to take some ferrous metal and let the magnets hold it in place and that could allow the firlds of the magnets to stay stable and not seek something to move to. before starting get a piece of the same material that the case is made of and clamp it in place and do some experimental welding on that piece and get the adjustments set and remove the sacrificial piece and do the job. to combat problems it takes experimentation. be adventurous and explore.