Oct 2011 Banger Meet. Not all that scary...Really.

I bet it's stuck in your muffler!!

You can get "nydot" which resist vibration. If you use Lok***e you only need to heat the screws with a small pencil tip torch to remove them easily

 

If I had a muffler

 

I've got a couple of "parts" 94's available.

 

You must have a long megaphone

The best ones keep breaking at the end due to the vibration.

We had one that was patched so mush we called it FRANKiNPIPE it had so many s***ches

 

So, are you going to run the piston like that?

.

 

It looks much worse in the the pic.
They are very small dings with the carbon from the 40 mile ride home. I could not see any dings in the piston but I did have a broken plug. I put a new plug and new carb on and it ran fine. I took the head off only because I was thinking there was a PC. of steel stuck in the top of the piston or a ****ed up valve. I was very lucky for now.
If I had to do a new piston I would bore the block out and put 4 new ones in. The guy that did this engine before I got it did a half *** job with the bores and other stuff but I could not fix the bores

This late it the year I will just hope for the best. Snow is coming I will mess with it another day. I hope to drive it to work tomorrow.

 

It lives.... I Still need to play with the new carb. Good news is I don't hear any thing from the piston or rod

The bad news it going to rain for the next 2 day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOqSXWk6agE

 

Please do a warmed-up leak down. Just to make sure the chunks didn't bend a valve or close a ring. Enough force to close the plug is plenty to cause these things. Just a peace-0-mind thing..........

 

Its on the list
I checked the valve with a light in the port with the valve closed and I saw no light. That's not saying the head of the valve wont pop off on the way to work.

In the end I have more money in the head on this engine then the hole thing so I am not going to make more work and spend money on this engine. I might have 4 or 5 good weeks left to drive it before the weather turns to ****.

I runs... sounds good... and it made the 35 40 mile drive home after it ate the pc of steel.

wish it luck

 

thanks Bill but that is one thing I have lots of
Now a twin to my Winfield.... I just might have to start saving
The Winfield carb does not have that little pc of steel that messed up my engine

 

this one is running good

 

Very nice- are those HS 4's?

 

Front spring question...

I'm starting with a donor 12 leaf truck spring for my A Coupe . What's the preferred set-up in terms of leaf count for a drop axle hot rod? I'm thinking 6...Any opinions? Thanks.

 

Decided to drive my 1930 Tudor Seadn to work today. It is a nice 25 mile drive along two lane country roads. It bgan to rain this morning hafl way into the trip but all was good, the car was running smooth, no leaks and the traffic was light. It was a good day at work, no issues, spent some time staring out the window at the Model A etc. Got in the car for the drive home, even left a few minutes early so it would be an enjoyable drive. About half way home leaving a stop light, i shift from 1st to second at 10 mph, shift from 2nd to third at 30mph on my way to 45 mph. No sooner do I shift into 3rd and I feel a BOOM!!! (at least it felt like an explosion) from in front of me. I shift into neutral and coast to the side of the road. with my heart in my stomach. As I get out I look for a puddle of oil. (None to be found) open each side of the hood looking for a gapping hole in the block (none to be found). As I look around for evidence of what happened, I pull on the fan belt and it turns. Not only does it turn but I also see the crank pulley turning. I know from working on this car and my truck after (making sure I did not have spinach for lunch) I am not strong enough to turn over 4 banger by using the fan belt. Without opening the oil pan or pulling the head I am guessing I snapped the crankshaft.

Now I only hope that the block and pistons are still OK.

Has anyone else ever experience the sudden boom and the coast ot the road and gain the ability to rotate the crank from the fan belt?

Also if the crankshaft did split, is the engine rebuildable? or should I start from scratch.

Just before the engine cratered it was running so smooth.

The engine was a inserted, non-pressureized Model A Ford Engine with Riley Two Port (Serial #61) on top, fed by a weber 32/36 dgv and sparked by pertronix, backed up by a mitchell transmission and a mitchell over drive. It has been in service for approx 9 years and about 4000 miles.

I do have a very good partner in the hobby in my wife. After I called her she came to meet me with the truck and a tow strap and my Tudor was pulled all the way home.

Dave
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It almost looks like it beat the word "Destroyer" into the top of the piston...



Sam

 

I took some time to work on some of the solutions to find more symptoms towards a solution. Here is what I found.

1) I loosened the alternator and took off the belt. The billet steel pulley is definitely loose. I an rotate it and see that it has moved forward a small but. The 15/16" nut seems tight, I tried to get ot it but will have to worka buit more on that because the movement of the pulley makes getting the extension from the socket into the socket very difficult.

2) I took the side cover off the cam timing gear and discovered that it is aluminum. (this is a good) The teeth are in good condition and I can not get it to move (rotate) by hand. I did not want to put a screwdriver on it and mess the teeth up.

3) Someone suggested I put the car in gear and push it forward to see if the rotor turns. I tried this with the car in second gear and pushed it forward about a foot but the rotro did not move.

A couple of questions:

a) will the keyway snapping on the crank pulley make a LOUD metal noise?
b) if the cam gears look good and will not turn by hand, I ***ume it is still engaged with the crank gears and the crank is OK.
c) right after the loud noiuse occured last night it sounded like metal banging against something. I ***ume this could have been the crank pulley bouncing up and down.

Thanks, Dave

 

put your hand crank in and turn it over
see what happens
tk

 

MOre info to the drama I am going through from my ride home on Monday in the Tudor.
Took off the side cover of the timing gears, placed the car in gear and pushed it forward. The cam gears did ot turn, the rotor did not turn. In looking more at the pulley, it rotates but will not push back in and only moved in and out maybe 1/8". Next thing is to pull the oil pan to look deeper ito what happened.

The engine has inserted main and rod bearings, so if the front bearing was sacraficed, I am hoping that the mounting suface can be resued for a new bearing. Once I pull the pan and look inside I will post some pics of the carnage.

I am out of town tomorrow so the oil pan looks like a weekend effort.

Thanks to all so far.

Based on what I keep finding it is beginning to sound like the engine will be coming out of the car.

 

Got the banger in by 29 model A to turn over today. It had been in storage since the early 1970's. We just started working on it last week. Put a battery in and started working throught the electrical. Noticed the headlights came on when I got good ground at the battery. Going to try new points and condensor and see what happens. It was a good night.

 

Question on converting a B motor to high pressure oiling I have one of Dan Prices high pressure pumps that I am setting up at the moment but there are conflicting ideas on the best way of doing this I am using an external oil filter [remember in NZ we drive on the otherside of the road so steering box and headers are in the way] and an overhead conversion [Rutherford] and a cast deep sump [also Rutherford]
I have heard various methods of doing this including blocking or restricting oil galleries lets discuss it and see if we can come up with a recommended way
Thanks in advance Rusty

 

Try this!

 

Went to a small show to day

 

There was a head like that on ebay a couple weeks ago. It sold for $2700 or $2800.

Ron

 

Was the only Banger at Famoso yesterday besides a roached out Tudor Sedan stocker. Heard rumors Dragfest will be back this coming year, anyone wanna race Bangers? Picked up a good B radiator out of the swapmeet but otherwise nothing special in the swap to entertain ya'll with picture wise. Anyone going to Mooneyes Xmas party?-Weeks

 

If you have been reading along with some of the trials and tribulations that have frustrated me with the tweaking of the Ghost Rider Roadster, then you will have read our very good friend Bluto's helpful tips trying to get me pointed in the right direction. With the distributor issue that I had, he advised me to get rid of the points and install a Pertronix unit. Well I did just that over the weekend and it fired this afternoon after realizing that the ballast resistor was not needed as the coil has resistance built into it. I can't believe how the Super "B" runs and sounds now. Wow!! It sounds almost like a Harley at idle and it just cracks when the loud pedal is applied . It seems to be smoother running as well. Well Bluto, you've done it again and I thank you very much.
One Very Happy,
Ron

 

Hey guys just a question.. i just picked up a "Kong Oil Filter Adapter" for a Model A engine off Ebay, for $20. Is that a bargain? Are these things a good extra to run on a Model A engine?

 

sounds pretty good to me

 

Hey RussTee, Did you see the pressurizing information I posted? Did it help? Just curious as I do have better things to do than researching and posting information. I kinda hate just spinning my wheels.

 

^^^^^^^^^^
I saved it.....
Keep the wheels spinning I'll go for the ride with ya

 

Up date on my junk box
I have about 200 miles on her after my carb eating.
It took me some time to get the new carb happy but all is well for now.
Just in time for winter....we might get our first little snow tonight