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Intermittent or weak spark issues, new coil installed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jctrayer, Oct 23, 2011.

  1. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    Hi all.

    I have a 62 falcon, 170 IL 6. I have a strange issue. For the engine to start I need spark, compression, and fuel.

    I can get the car to start intermittently... When it runs it sounds good but the even with the gas petal down, and the time it's running depends, it will just cut off.

    As far as the spark, it's not a bright blue or seems strong enough at all... Very dim spark and even non existent during cranking at times. The battery seems to be draining quite fast upon cranking as well.

    I haven't gone crazy with purchasing parts yet because I really want to try troubleshooting it. I've changed the plugs, cap and rotor, and got a new coils. Points seem fine. #1 cylinder at TDC is fairly close to #1 on distributor.

    If I can remember I got like 6.8vdc at the coil when the ignition was on. Not even sure what the voltage should be???

    Is there anything else that can cause week or no spark besides the coils. I'm beating my head over what else could be the issue... And I'd rather not go out and just start buying parts. Maybe a specific wire could be brittle or something but not sure what one.

    Thanks everyone, any input would be greatly appreciated....
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    good contact is important. Take the points out and file them, or sand them, whatever you need to do to get then smooth and shiney. Then wipe them with clean paper or carboard. Cloth might leave stuff on the surface.

    Now check for spark at the points, either when cranking or just opening with a screwdriver. If you want to, take the coil wire out of the cap while doing that, and prop it up so it needs to jump a 1/8 inch to a ground.

    Coil voltage varies on weather the points are open or closed. Opened, it should read 12. Closed, it should be 6 or so as the resistor now has a load on it, and is resisting :)

    Get your spark consistant first, then repost how it runs. If it still has other problems or not, report back.
     
  3. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    Great thank you.... I will definitely try this and see what happens. :)
     
  4. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    Ok, getting dark here but did check a few things. Didn't get to take out the points yet

    Spark from ground to the coils wire was strong... Was jumping even more than an 1/8 inch.

    There was spark at the points, but seemed weak.. Not sure how strong it should be. Took readings at the positive and negative post of the coil, with the points closed it was 6 CDC, with the points closed it was 0, I triple checked this..... Nothing but 6 vdc during cranking.

    What would this mean?

    Thanks
     
  5. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    Two things, It should be about 6V while running. I think those Fords used a resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil. If not then it has a ballast resistor on the fire wall. Just so you know. If it shows strong spark at the coil then it could be the wire from the points to the coil. Possible but not likly. Fords used a ground wire inside the distributor from the breaker plate to the distributor housing. Is that still there? Ithink I'd check the resistor wire or the wire from the key switch to the + side of the coil. One more thing is the coil wired properly? The - side goes to the points and + goes to the battery source or key switch. Try that. Normal Norman
     
  6. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    First off Get a battery ,That can cause issues,I had a bad battery in my car ,Got it running and would just die,I was fighting the misadjusted choke problem...........
     
  7. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    I apologize... I measured it wrong.... Went from + post to a good ground and got 6vdc while points were closed and 12vdc when open. So I'm ***uming that fine.

    Yes, there is no ballast resistor so it must be a resister wire instead from my research. And the negative goes to the distributor and the positive is coming from the ignition.

    It looks as though the ground wire is intacted within the distributor as well.

    I'll still try cleaning the points at daylight... And we'll see. This is just a real weird issue.

    Thanks
     
  8. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,332

    sdluck
    Member

    Should be 12 v cranking and over 6v running
     
  9. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    Yes, I totally need a battery bad... Been working with a battery starter and a **** battery that came with the car... This week I'm goin to get one.
    Thanks
     
  10. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Replace the condensor while you are at it.
     
  11. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    I'm only getting 8.5 volts during cranking right now.... At the plus side of the coil to ground...
     
  12. Jctrayer
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 13

    Jctrayer
    Member

    ITS RUNNING AND SOUNDS GREAT!!!!!!

    It was the condenser.... $5 part. Thanks everyone, I learned a lot on this one with minimal money spent.
     

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