Gents, i think my temp gauge has carked itself and I am wondering what other guys have done as an alternative to simply replacing it? Its a 263 buick 8, One question; if I was to get a newer gauge, such as an autometer gauge, would I need an adapter? The original sender is 1/2 " npt if I am not mistaken? Anything else I need to be wary of? Thanks guys! stop press! seems like Autometer gauges may come packed with an adapter alreadies...
Please explain what it is or is not doing and for what vehicle? The sender and gauge must be matched whatever you do. 1/2 NPT is the largest size of temp sender. Whatever sending unit size you wind up with you will be able to bush it.
52 Buick super. Sorry. Forgot you guys weren't mind readers The gauge itself has stopped working. That is, when I test it in a jar of hot water nothing happens. Also, the threaded nut thing which bolts onto the head is in very ordinary condition and I suspect the fitting has had better days, as even though I have tried to use plumber's tape to temporarily stop the leak, it still leaks. I am going to find a perch and nail the unit to it because basically, I think it's a dead parrot. I am converting the car to 12 volts (for a number of reasons- apologies to the purists) so I guess a nice autometer electronic unit is probably on the cards. Option 2. Going back to original: I have seen a few temp gauges separately for sale (that is with the gauge and the sender and put it in your own housing and that is my favourite choice but folks want a fair bit of dough for them, understandably... Anyone gutted an old gauge to use for their temp gauge. Looks fairly easy to do, only thing would be the size of the donor gauge...
When I think 1952 Buick, I think mechanical temp gauge? Does it have a capillary tube and thermo-well? The easiest scenario would be to replace the original or have it rebuilt. I don't known of anyone in Australia but we are one of the few shops in the states that does so. Plumber's tape will not ***ist you in the leak issue. The thermo -well seats like a valve and has nothing to do with the threads. If you go with the aftermarket temp gauge, be sure to retain all your part numbers. The models change and when it fails you will need to replace with the correct components. As for your 12 volt conversion, be sure to install a proper voltage reduction for the fuel gauge or you will destroy it. Do you have an ammeter?
My brother was trying to tell me the same thing, only he used a lot nore words. Your explanation is much more precise. I'll get a picture up of the unit shortly, show you what I mean. I have a feeling a component is missing off it. thanks. Peter. Are they e**y to repair?
Hey there, I replaced mine with the autometer aftermarket jobby. Works great, all I had to do to modify it was change the 12 volt bulb to a 6 volt LED. Be extremely careful pulling the temp bung out of the engine be gentle.... Good luck Chuck
I don't know what an e**y is, but sure. As for the "bung": the original adapter fittings were made of mild steel. This choice keeps us in business. When the steel adapter fitting, thermo-well and jam nut sieze together into a ball of rust, the temp gauge capillary tube is usually the weakest link upon removal. We supply our customers with fresh br*** fittings when applicable. It might not ensure future repairs but I think it's the humane choice.
Oh yes, I belive the Br*** fitting are much better that what I had originally. It took some work to get the original out and then the temp bulb was also stuck inside the head. Finally after about 2 hours of wiggleing it back and forth with needle nose vise grips she released. My new one is not electric other than the light that I replaced. Works good now! Chuck
I see, expense is relative in restoration. The thermo-well is broken off of your capillary tube. I wouldn't bother trying to salvage the thermo well but if you have a square headed jam nut try to save that portion. Most get thrown away and some people like to have the original, so it has some value. We just replace the whole line, shielding, jam nut and thermo-well.
Hey that is the same thing that happened to mine, broke off in the head. Time to try and wiggle it out..... Chuck
hmmm. dont like the sound of that thing being stuck in the head, Chuck, after your 2 hour ordeal...gonna have to see if I can find anything in there
I had the '41 Century dash refurbished by Broesch in Robbins, CA. Flawless work. Reasonable prices too. All the gauges were refinished and refaced and all work great. Normbc9
If you have a mechanical gauge and your geeling froggy you can replace the capillarytube ***embly yourself. I did it and it worked following these guidelines. The only thing that bothers me is not knowing the exact temp because right now it shows im running hot. http://www.ply33.com/repair/tempgauge Pretty cool to dip the bung in boiling water and watch the gauge move! NAES
Guys, thanks. I'm gonna wait until I get a fricken day off then go and see what is hiding down that hole in the head. I get home in the pitch dark and I am too chicken to go down there with all the hairy spiders that come out at night... Okay, it's daylight now. I went out there with the trusty camera and took a snap of the hole. I didnt find anything up there! Or maybe it is up there? I cant tell? What am I looking for? Ignore all that gunky ****. That was an epic fail of mine. I tried to seal the hole up just so that I could start the car for the very first time. Was a very temporary measure, but it didnt work. I stuck a piece of tube down the hole and it went in for about 2 1/2 inches or more before it actually hit something, so nothing inside there.
Okay, discovered that on the block there should be a 5/8 UNC plug which the sender screws into. Can anyone verify that? I seem to have only half the things I need. There's a guy in town who does calibrations etc and he said it's a pretty common job. (When I showed him the end of the sender with the weird nut he told me that's supposed to screw into another fitting and that fitting then goes into the block.) Any of this making sense, guys?
A happy conclusion to this saga. A mob in town fixed the unit for me. New ether tube and two new fittings. He also replaced the needle inside the cable and cleaned the gauge up for me. $120 probably well spent. Thanks for all your help, guys.
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