Since tonight has been about paint ,Im in the process of bodyworking my differential.Thats done Im on to the backing plates and looking for cheap and quick ideas ,The plates are pitted ,,,,,,Primer just aint cutting it,6 coats now and no dice,,,,, One I hit with a coat of truck bed coating ,and paint ,Gonna try to sand out tomorrow,If not blasting it all off saturday ,
Unfortunately I've found no fast way to bodywork anything. for backing plates I sandblast them, then use a die grinder with different attachments. My favorites are the roloc for the flat areas and the small sanding roll on a 1" rubber plug for the nooks. if I really wanted a super nice finish I would probably look for a pair with minimal pitting. not sure how heat would affect filler, never tried. Hope that helps
It does thats just what I thought ,I spent 3 nights abut 7 hrs getting the rear differential prepped ,This weekend I want to do the bones,Im thinking maybe old school Making spray nitro stan,,,,
we use that its called polyester primer its super high build called poly prime or feather fill its the only way i ever fill pits anymore
Nope I did a suburban once with a friend Full bodywork and he painted it ,Never again ,Vans and suburbans are just tooo big.Overspray answered your question the best and I think I answered your question the cheapest ,Pimpin paint is also dead on.Im only familiar with old school stuff ...........
Your gonna laugh. Usually 2K primers don't fill a pit. They cause a fisheye around it. For some reason they won't flow down into the pit. When I need fill on some pit, I shoot an extra heavy coat of 2K on the surface take my fingure and rub it into the pits. Shoot another coat on and sand when dry. Jeez, that sucker must be really pitted!!. If it is that bad use filler first. WTF is this a show rear?
How about using JB Weld for filler. I used it on inner fenders that I wanted to powder coat and it worked fine. Use original JB not the fast setting stuff, the original can handle temps up to 450 degrees. Slap it on, use a rubber squeegee to cut it down close to the level desired, let it set up for 24 hours and it'll be easier to sand.
Now understand usually I don't fill pits with primer. I have had PPG K-36 do it also. I usually use Keystone Key 3-1 primer now, cheaper and just as good as any I've found. I priced K-36 today, $185 a gallon. I'm saying from what I found if you have a pit in filler, it will just flow around the pit, sooo, I take my finger when it is wet and rub across the pit, presto gone. then I put a coat of wet primer back across it. WTH, I will block it anyway. Weird, I know. OOps I just re read. It's not a fisheye, it is a pit in the surface that causes it. Lippy