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Points burnout

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bt34, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. bt34
    Joined: Dec 22, 2006
    Posts: 295

    bt34
    Member

    The points have burn't on my 400ci Midland in my 1956 F100..
    They lasted about 10 miles.
    I have a new set of points and a new condenser.
    How can I test the old condenser to make sure its the problem?
    Do I need a ballast resister?
     
  2. silent rick
    Joined: Nov 7, 2002
    Posts: 5,691

    silent rick
    Member

    sounds like you need a ballast resistor
     
  3. toughnut
    Joined: Jul 28, 2009
    Posts: 106

    toughnut
    Member
    from Arizona

    The ballast resistor should be in series with the coil in run, and byp***ed in start. A shorted or open condensor= no run.
     
  4. BAD PENNY
    Joined: Aug 22, 2011
    Posts: 1,251

    BAD PENNY
    Member
    from mass

    Change it over to a Pertronics unit if they make one for your app. Got em in both of my cars...one for 9 yrs. and the other for about 3 with Zero trouble !!!! Just a thought.
     
  5. hotroddon
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 28,240

    hotroddon
    Member

    Yes, we do make them (PerTronix) for that distributor. :D
     
  6. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,381

    BJR
    Member

    You defiantly need a ballast resister in the run circuit, by p*** it in the start position. It cuts the voltage from 12 volts to about 8 volts in the run position. That's why your points don't last.
     
  7. bt34
    Joined: Dec 22, 2006
    Posts: 295

    bt34
    Member

    Thanks for the reply's guys.
    Re the Pertronix unit suggestion I have one in my 326 Olds powered 34.
    It works a treat...
    As for putting one in the F1 I was/am being a cheapskate...

    cheers Bryan
     
  8. woodypecker
    Joined: Jan 23, 2011
    Posts: 300

    woodypecker
    Member

    If you search GMC Bubba did a long post about matching coil resistance ballast resistors etc. If I remember correctly you need a total resistance to get about 3 amps.
     
  9. hotrodj54
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 634

    hotrodj54
    Member

    some of the fords used a internal supressed coil which dont usually need a ballist resistor.your problem is def. too much voltage to the points.if memory serves me you shouldnt have any more then 11 volts to the points....john
     
  10. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 530

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    Sounds like you've got a lot of good suggestions like getting rid of points altogether.
    A few after market coils run 12v but factory or most replacements need a ballast and run on 6v. The low voltage coils can handle 12v for short duration such as starting. The condensor p***es the alternating current generated when the points open with the purpose of reducing sparking and metal transfer and was always changed w/ the points
     
  11. oldcarfart
    Joined: Apr 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,436

    oldcarfart
    Member

    12 volts cranking, 8 volts running. but the Pertronix unit will make a world of difference.
     
  12. silent rick
    Joined: Nov 7, 2002
    Posts: 5,691

    silent rick
    Member

    so are you guys saying that when running a pertronix kit, you can throw the ballast resistor away?
     
  13. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    You need 12 volts for the pertronix kit. Won't have enough volts with the resistor left in.
     
  14. CutawayAl
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,144

    CutawayAl
    Member
    from MI

    In aditio0n to the possibilities already posted, some race coils draw a lot of current and aren't suitable for use with points.
     

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