The points have burn't on my 400ci Midland in my 1956 F100.. They lasted about 10 miles. I have a new set of points and a new condenser. How can I test the old condenser to make sure its the problem? Do I need a ballast resister?
The ballast resistor should be in series with the coil in run, and byp***ed in start. A shorted or open condensor= no run.
Change it over to a Pertronics unit if they make one for your app. Got em in both of my cars...one for 9 yrs. and the other for about 3 with Zero trouble !!!! Just a thought.
You defiantly need a ballast resister in the run circuit, by p*** it in the start position. It cuts the voltage from 12 volts to about 8 volts in the run position. That's why your points don't last.
Thanks for the reply's guys. Re the Pertronix unit suggestion I have one in my 326 Olds powered 34. It works a treat... As for putting one in the F1 I was/am being a cheapskate... cheers Bryan
If you search GMC Bubba did a long post about matching coil resistance ballast resistors etc. If I remember correctly you need a total resistance to get about 3 amps.
some of the fords used a internal supressed coil which dont usually need a ballist resistor.your problem is def. too much voltage to the points.if memory serves me you shouldnt have any more then 11 volts to the points....john
Sounds like you've got a lot of good suggestions like getting rid of points altogether. A few after market coils run 12v but factory or most replacements need a ballast and run on 6v. The low voltage coils can handle 12v for short duration such as starting. The condensor p***es the alternating current generated when the points open with the purpose of reducing sparking and metal transfer and was always changed w/ the points
In aditio0n to the possibilities already posted, some race coils draw a lot of current and aren't suitable for use with points.