I have a '26 T with the stock wood wheels and the split rim "bands" that bolt to the wheel, and I need to get the tires off to replace the tubes. Does anyone know how to do that? I bought a couple of Model T books and I did some internet searching but I can't find any tech on how the tires are changed on the rims. I have seen Ebay ads for 'rim splitters' but I'm not sure if I need that tool or even how it works. I'm begging for your help. I could take my first ride in the roadster tomorrow if I can figure out how to mount the tires. I'll even donate a few extra dollars to the HAMB (already have an auction running and I got in on the cookie raffle [i.e. the anti-auction] if someone can help me out. 4 ever 4, are you out there? do you know how to do this? By the way, the car will stay mostly stock, with some side mounted spares and a hopped up original banger engine, maybe even a Frontenac OHV head if my wet dreams come true. Thanks in advance everyone.
Can you posts a picture ? Definately before my time,but I've heard stories of my Grandfather patching tubes at the side of the road,so it must be possible. Maybe Corkey Coker can tell us ? If you can't get an answer here,try the T board on www.Fordbarn.com
Hi Squablow, You do need a rim spreader to mount and dismount a Ford Wood wheel for 1926. The metal rim comes off the felloe bands with the lug bolts. When you have the rim laying on the floor or ground and the air is removed the three pronged spreader is used to pull the rim into itself making the rim diameter smaller. This type of rim will require a flap. We always recommend using new tubes and flaps when you change these type rims. Put the tube in the tire first, then the flap and then you mount the whole ***embly on the rim, which is smaller diameter now because of the rim spreader. Make sure your valve stem in NOT in the valve hole straight but angled toward the split because when you spread the rim back out to its correct position, the rim will turn and the stem comes back straight. If you are going to use this car, you should find a spreader for sure. I would think one of the antique car collectors in your area would have one if you can't find one on ebay. I see em at swap meets all the time. They usually sell for $30. to $75. If you were close to Chattanooga or Fresno, we could mount them for you. Hope this helps... Corky Coker
Corky, I'm not familiar to what you are talking about at all but it sounds like one could rig up a "McGuiver" spreader in an emergency using three fair size turnbuckles hooked to each other at the center and pulling on the lug bolt holes maybe? I know peoplegot a lot of flats back then on the poor or no roads... Did every T owner carry a spreader with him on the road? If so, they should be fairly common!
Great help, I did buy my new tubes from Coker, by the way. Is the tool in this picture what I need? doesn't look like a "3 prong" to me, maybe I'm looking at it wrong? Please let me know, I appreciate all the help so far.
not trying to **** in, just giving an answer, but yes that is the tool you need. If you see the two arms on the right of the pic hinge, spread them apart and it becomes a big "Y". the other hook seems to be off to the left of the picture. The speader collapses to store it.
Yep... that is the tool you need. Most folks back in the twenties if they had demountable type rims like on a Model T Ford carried one of these and usually tightened it up so it road inside the spare on the sidemount or the back of the car. There are many original pictures that show em. Important way to operate..... Obviously you need to deflate the tire first. There are three prongs. Lay the rim on the floorwith the split at 12 oclock. put one prong over the rim flange at one oclock, the second at four oclock and the third one at about seven or 8 oclock. Then turn the crank to tighten it up. The rim will collapse into itself allowing you to take the tire and tube off the rim. Make sure you get all the rust off the rim with a wire brush or something making sure it is very clean for mounting the new tire tube and flap. As I mentioned earlier, go ahead and put the tube in the tire, then put the flap in after you put the tube in. Put the valve stem in thru the valve hole and crank your rim back in place. It helps sometimes to hit the inside of the rim with a hammer as you are cranking so the tire moves a little easier. It is also helpful to lube the bead and the flap with soapy water. Don't use petroleum products...just soapy water. Crank it back in place making sure your rim lines up correctly in a perfect circle. Don't crank too far because you can warp the rim too. Be very, very careful when you put air in it because this is where folks get hurt. Wouldn't hurt to put it behind something big while you air it up. Good luck with it. If you need more help...please don't hesitate to ask. All the best! Corky
Thanks Corky, your info is much appreciated. I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this one before I even ask, but how important is that flap/strip? If it's good in my old tires, can I reuse it? I've already got the new tubes and my tires seem to be in good shape but I haven't had any experience with these wheels and this car will be driven. I went to your website to look for it but I'm not sure I'm looking at the right product, shows 17 X 5 FLAP #16690 is that what I need? do I need one for every wheel, or will one cover all 4 wheels? Let me know. I have two side mount spares, so it'd be another $100+ dollars and a week to wait if I need them. Also, were you involved with the Coker Great Race team? I was in that for two years, with the Brillion X-cup team. We had two different Model A speedsters, in '98 and '99. That's a grueling race, but a lot of fun as well. Gave me a real appreciation for those cars, I would have never even thought about building a hopped-up four banger powered, stock looking T if I hadn't been in that race. I'd like to do it again sometime.
Wow, Corky. I haven't seen that much help and information from a major manufacturer in a very long time. I'm very impressed. Good work. It's nice to hear from someone who knows what he's talking about! --Matt
I got the rim spreader that I was looking at. Still need to know about that flap part, then I can put her on the road for the first time! Let me know about that flap, Corky.
Hi Squablow... You need 21x5 inch flaps and will need one flap for each tire and tube. If the ones you take out don't have rust marks on them, you might be able to use them...but considering how much time and effort it takes to mount the dang things, I always suggest new flaps and tubes. We are closed today but you can either order the flaps on line or call us on Tues if you like. We ship FedEX ground same day. Sounds like you are on your way! By the way, we have some very good tires cheap too in this size...440/450-21 Universal at $58 bucks if you'd rather put new ones on her. (the rimstrips are about 1 1/2 inches wide and are for drop center rims only) Best to you, Corky
as you might guess warbozz...folks need these things all the time. how much you need for your rim spreader? We can always use em.
Sorry.. forgot to answer your question about Great Race. Come go with us again! Have been doing the Race for seven years with my son. This year it goes from WashingtonDC to Tacoma Washington. Won't compete this year because of my SEMA chairman duties.. Son Cameron also has a job so he can't either. Here's a pic of our 37 Shafer 8 Buick Indy car somewhere in Nevada or Utah in 2002. Best to you! Corky
Got a question about remounting tires onto the split rims... I am having a bear of a time trying to get the rims to pop back into place- I've tried (with the split at 12 o'clock) putting the spreader arms at "1, 4, and 8" and "3, 6, and 9" with no luck. The split gets close, but won't lock. These are '28 Chevy rims, and the tires are older (I just want them on for mocking up the ch***is/suspension). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Don't know if this happened to you or not, but care must be taken using the rim spredder not of over do things and bend the rim out of shape. Once it gets egg shaped it is tough to fix.
No egg-shape yet, but this is frustratin'!!! I've tried "gently" tapping the split to get it to lock into place (no more than 1/2 inch until the ends lock), but no soap- and I REALLY don't want to break/lose a finger, etc...
Will the split line up if it is outside the tire? You should be able to set the split at 9 or 3 o:clock with the rim standing on the floor and pull it up into alignment. If it doesn't fit it is bent.
Yup, I popped it together outside of the tire, just won't do it inside. I was able to get one side to line up, but the other wouldn't- the Chevy rims have that slot and pin setup (I'm guessing others do too- showing my ignorance here) and I just can't ge the pin to slide int the slot... Wonder if I need to use some talc or grease to get things to slide inside? Again, these tires/tubes are only going to be used during the build.
Bump for the holiday crew- winter break is coming up and I'll have a little time to mess around with the split rims again. Does anyone have some pics of the process of mounting the split rims to tires?
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