Hot Rods Another silly question. Can someone explain what a bolt from behind wheel is.

Yeah I know it sounds self explanatory but I'm just not getting the concept of how to remove and install the wheel. I was looking to purchase a set of Real Rodder Wheels that resemble Halibrand spindle mounts. They and Team III offer a true bolt on, but the bolt from behind wheels really resemble a true spindle mount. There has to be more to it than removing the cap and spindle nut and sliding the wheel off of the spindle I'd imagine. Can you school me on this one?

 

As long as there isn't a brake caliper in the way, that sounds like how it would work.

 

Spindle mount has the hub in the wheel, just remove dust cap and spindle nut and the whole mess comes off - just like a regular wheel if you think about it.

 

I was under the impression the wheel is bolted on from the rear of the hub????

 

Look like lugnuts to me.

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]At last a 100% aesthetically correct Spindle Mount Bolt-on that you treat just like a regular rim! Bolts right on over your existing disc brakes. Comes in 15x5.5 rim size with either a Ford or Chevy bolt pattern. Designed for everything from Henry's T to muscle cars. Comes complete with caps, lugs and washers. Available in show polished front and rear Originals or as-cast and machined.[/FONT]
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Bolt, behind tha' wheel ? Hummmm !

Could mean, Bolt from, Behind the wheel.........Like, ah, Gettin' outta' your car really fast, when some Big sob is barin' Down on ya (?)
Or,
It could mean, The "NUT" behind the Wheel ? Lik'a, the Big sob, that was'a barin' DOWN YOU !

Yeah, It's Rainin' Here...........Can't go to the lake, won't drive me Chevie................All glass not back in Yet, Damn.

Poor Smoke'

 

I'm clear on the bolt on version but they offer another version of the same wheel without the lug nuts thats not a true spindle mount wheel. As they state it's bolted on from the rear.

As quoted from Real Wheels webpage​

"Check out Troy Cryer's excellent '34 Sedan with 15x5.5 Spindle Mounts in the front, and 16x10 Originals with the flat plate in the rear.
Troy is the first one to use our Spindle Mount wheel that is bolted from the rear, thus not showing any lug nuts, and making it look like a real spindle mount. Notice the sleekness of the car's lines and the wheels' lines." ​

 

No idea how it works, but it is a good looking sumbitch.

-Abone.

 

Possibly studs on the wheel itself and nuts on the back side of your wheel hub. Probably non brake style hub - has to be something custom made for the wheel I would assume. Contact them, they are very good about going over your wheel purchase prior to the sale.

 

These wheels have a large mounting flange on the back, just like a conventional bolt on wheel. Real Rodders sends the wheels to Eric Vaughn. He machines a small register in the back of the wheel to accept a standard Wilwood rotor hat. He then drills the back of the wheels for a 4.5 or 4.75" 5-bolt pattern, and installs steel inserts, so that studs can be screwed into the back of the wheel. Then your Wilwood rotor hat/hub (without the normal press-in studs) is dropped onto the back of the wheel, over the studs, and nuts are used to tighten the rotor hat/hub to the wheel. With the rotor, hat and bearings installed to the wheels, it is then slipped onto the spindle, and the spindle-nut is slipped through the wheel by removing dust cap. Then the nut is tightened just like you would a conventional wheel. Because of the thickness of the wheel near the center, I've heard it can be a little tricky to get the cotter pin in the spindle-nut and spindle.

I spoke to Vaughn about this, because I was seriously considering buying these wheels at one point. I backed off because I didn't like the 5.5" width in a spindle mount style wheel, and was going to have to get him to narrow them as well. It just seemed like a lot of expense to put into a brand new pair of wheels. His charge for modifying the wheels for the back bolt style was fairly reasonable though.

 

????? ^^^^ Then, how do ya' get the caliper, to straddle the rotor, or am I missing a step here?????

 

The brakes are conventional Wilwood hubs and rotors. They line up in the same place on the spindle as they would with a conventional bolt on wheel. The caliper and bracket attaches to the spindle flange just like normal. Here's some pics that may help.

 

Hmmmm.........Are the studs smooth, that register the wheels?

And what does the outer bearing "bear upon", to keep the whole shebang all clamped together, to keep the wheel tight against the outer portion of the hub?

I would probably grasp it all much better, seeing it in person!

They sure are pretty!!!

 

The threaded holes in the brake hub are dilled out smoothe. Regular threaded studs are screwed into the back of the wheels. The hub drops down over the studs. Nuts go over the studs and clamp the hub to the wheel.

It works just like a regular wheel, but imagine bolts coming through the brake hub and screwing into the back of the wheel, instead of coming all the way through.

The round cone in the center of the brake hub is probably machined to register into the center of wheel.

This sketch may help.

 

Those are SICK! Major kudos to the genius who came up with that idea! I wish I had a project to use this getup on!

 

WillysRule thanks a million man. Thats good info.

 

Kind of a lot of bull-pucky just to run fake-ish spindle mount wheels.

 

The beauty is you can run them on any vehicle. The original Halibrands were made for Ford or Anglia spindles.

 

Got it!
And thanks for your patience and explanations!!!

 

So the wheel has no backspace correct? I don't see any way to get the caliper on if the wheel has any backspace.

This is just a question not a slam on the wheel.

A lot of work to get a spindle mount look but a real engineering job for sure. KUDOS to the originators of the design/idea.

 

Since the rotor is bolted to the wheel, does one have to install the caliper after everything is bolted on the car? Help me to understand, I've only downed 2 cups of coffee so I'm not fully functional.

 

all this is hurting my head....just hugged my lug nut attached wheels, saying thank you for being so simple.

 

They are fortunately out of my price range.

Sometimes being dirt poor is a good thing.

Ya gotta love the look of a spidle mount and having brakes besides is a good thing. I have mounted a disk to an American spoked wheel before, with a pair of Air Heart (sp?) calipers it worked but this is a way better setup for running front brakes. I don't care what enyone says if you are going to drive it on the street you need front brakes. Its not like you can throw out the laundry every time you need to stop.

 

I have heard of a loose NUT behind the wheel, but that usually causes problems

 

Looks like street roddy "I gotta spend more money than you" type stuff.

 

The wheel does have back space, unlike my crude sketch suggests. The disc rotor bolts the the back side of the hub, several inches from the wheel mounting surface. Look at the pic of the assembled Wilwood hub and rotor disc. The disc is bolted on the opposite side of the hub. Plenty of room even if there were no back space. That's the beauty of this set up. Other than drilling out the stud holes in the hub, and machining a little register lip around the base of the center cone, they're off the shelf brakes. Your spindle flange, caliper mounting bracket doesn't care what kind of wheel is out there. None of the brake dimensions have changed.

 

I'm sure those are fun to change out if you happen to have a flat on the side of the road.

 

A hub like a corvette knock off would allow them to be used on drums, like my buick 45's. The only thing would be to come up with a locking nut that would look correct to the look of the spindle mount wheel. I would seriously consider a set if they could be adapted to drums. Great thread.

 

Guys just came a cross this thread tonight talking about the real rodder spindle mount front rims.. I just layed out my big bucks to buy a set without really know how they would bolt on.. They gave me grade 8 hex head bolts to use to bolt them to my hubs but i'm using the brake set up from P&J's and they aren't flat on the back like the wilwood's... so the hex bolts would not fit. I bought grade 8 allen head bolts so they would fit in the spot that was milled for the stud.. But on the P&J brake set up the bracket that holds the caliper on is the same size as the rotor and will not let me get in to tighten the bolts.. I'm going to have to find another caliper bracket that doesn't cover the rotor or cut slots in the ones i have (don't want to do that).
The rims are great looking and like anything else we do on our cars we'll make it work and be safe.. sorry i couldn't upload any pictures... ??

 

The path of least resistance is to use Wilwood brakes. The beauty of this setup is that it will fit anything with the correct Wilwood brake setup - at the risk of getting flamed - for example a Mustang II type setup. The downside is indeed as Muttley says - changing a wheel when you get a flat is a bear....