Buffing Stainless help

Can anyone give me a quick refresher on buffing stainless? I'm doing some now using green compound and finding it doesn't "bite" very well compared with using it for buffing aluminum, copper, or br***. My results are clean and shiny but a little hazy with micro-scratches and not mirror/chrome bright.

Does stainless just take alot more work than soft metals or do I need a more aggressive compound? Should I use red jewelers rouge?

 

i think its about using hi speed and dont cut your hands . some one will tell ya about compounds .

 

Try Eastwood.com or TPTools.com both of them sell buffing supplies I have used from both and they work well. Start with emery and then use stainless. TP has a chart that tells what wheels and what compounds to use.
Good Luck
Bill

 

I forgot to mention Eastwood is in Pa.
Bill

 

more info please! is the stainless rough or was it buffed out before? green is ultra finish compound used with a felt wheel.

 

There have been various discussions and explanations about buffing
stainless. Have you tried using the search function to look for
previous threads?? Usually a buffing wheel is involved. I've
tried just a little bit to buff some old stainless, but not enough to
get it right.

 

Not rough or pitted. Just some old bright-work that has typical dirt, oxidation, and weather-wear. Specifically some Merc stainless grille teeth I'm replacing and then I want to buff the entire grille so everything matches.

 

best to start by cleaning good.i use clr.then use black compound on a sisal wheel,and yes it take pressure to do it.then wipe off with cloth to remove most of th residue,then go to green,on a sewn wheel,that brings the color back.wipe again,then use white compound on unsewn wheel,that is the polish.i just did all the stainless on my 56 linc. premiere,that took awhile

 

I like to sand minor scratches first. saves alot of buffing when you get to 2000 grit it only requiress light buffing

 

Thanks guys. I need the black compound and a new sisal, then to green with felt and/or sewn cotton.

 

A couple of more thoughts. Get the right compounds and wheels from a company that specializes in buffing products. Don't settle for the "one size fits none" compound from the local hardware store despite what the clerk tells you. Someone mentioned high speed. Don't get a high speed wheel and push the part into it until it slows down. The heat generated will warp the metal. I have seen a lot of Model A radiator shells ruined this way. Finally draw a grid on the part with a felt tip and buff off each square one at a time. That way you know you have covered everything before changing to the next finer wheel and compound. Finally be carefully of the wheel grabbing the parts.

Charlie Stephens

 

Had success using a really old free Sears grinding motor (3450rpm)converted by removing the guards and grind wheels replacing them with 6" sisal and cotton wheels. Didn't use 8" as I wanted to keep the surface speed down. Used just emery and white rouge compounds.
Always wear leather gloves and watch the angle of the piece you are polishing. Saves on slashed fingers and parts wisked across the room.

 

Ditto

 

Harbor Freight sells a Stainless polishing kit with the correct compounds and buffer wheel.

 

Lots of good advice already given. You guys don't need me, lol.
To put it plainly, yes, stainless is much harder to repolish properly than any other commonly polished metal. I just did some step plates today that were really rough. I started with a 240grit belt and went from there.

 

I use Courtesy Metal Polishing in Villa Park, and ***o has 4-5 different machines, it's a pretty sweet setup.