Did some searching, most guys have issues, I have done it before with good results, but a pain in the **** process. Does anyone have an old trick, or proper step by step method for bleeding them correctly and easily? I have a fresh system, all new lines, dual mc, and 1939 style wheel cylinders. Dont have any fancy gadgets, just going to do it by hand with a buddy and a few beers. Thoughts?
I cant see why you are predicting a problem.I read about troubles here with bleeding, and always wonder..what the hell? its very easy, and I have never had a problem, except when there is a really bad fault in the system, like a huge leak into a vacuum booster, or an old swelled-shut soft hose. some people swear by bench bleeding the master, I have never done it, and never had a problem. here are some hints..but you hardly need them! furthest lines first,pump it up, hold, release the bleeder.go round all four wheels about three times over, thats all you got to do.
right rear, left rear, right front, left front that is the standard order. make sure your shoes are adjusted correctly too. have fun!
Make sure all fittings and connections are tight. The technique when bleeding can sometimes be the problem. You want to slowly and fully stroke (not pump) the pedal while bleeding each cylinder. (the pedal MUST full stroke the master BEFORE the pedal hits the floor!) It's best to use a 3' or so length of clear Tygon tubing pushed over the bleeder, coiled up slightly higher than the cylinder, and then empting into a container. This allows a good visual of the flow of fluid and air coming out of the bleeder. The bleeder should only be opened enough to have a slow steady flow, and then shut when the pedal bottoms out. When some pressure can be developed, do a leak check by applying high (max) pedal force. If the pedal remains solid and does not move to the floor, and there are NO leaks or weeps, repeat the bleeding process two or three more times per wheel until only clear fluid comes out of each bleeder. And it doesnt matter which wheel or system is bled first on a dual system. Just check the fluid reservoirs often. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean all the connections, fittings, as well as tools and spillage on the vehicle and your hands. Using a spray bottle makes it very convenient. You will find the alcohol makes finding leaks and weeps much easier, and does a great job cleaning up fluid messes.
just curious, are you having trouble with the rear cylinders, and are they on a set of backing plates turned upside down, on a Model A rearend? If they are you probably have the bleed screws below the brake line, never bleed this way, you need to swap the cylinders from rt to left and put the bleed screw on top, common problem I have seen alot, did it myself once, fixing a problem on a 31 sport coupe as we speak with same problem. just curious mind you!
Did you bleed them yet? Do you have a puddle on the ground? I've found it best to adjust the shoes on early Ford brakes BEFORE you put fluid into the system. When the shoes are at their innermost adjustments, I had fluid leak past the rubber cups in the cylinders. The cups were too far in, and held there by the shoes. After the shoes were adjusted (at least roughly), the cups moved past the cylinder's fluid inlet hole and everything worked fine.
I don't understand what Chopper Cliff is saying. The wheel cylinders are the same. If I trade left for right, the bleeder is still below the line.
I think he meant the backing plate, is your emergency cable coming out the top? That would be wrong, you want it out the bottom towards the trans.
I have good luck with them and here's what works for me. This is after the shoes are adjusted. That's the very first step. 1. Bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it in the car and then bleed it again into itself before hooking up lines. They sell plastic fittings for this at most parts stores and you hook up tubing onto them and then run them back into the fluid chambers. 2. hook up all the lines and open the right rear. Put one of those plastic fittings mentioned earlier into the wheel cylinder and attach a long clear plastic tube and run it into a half full brake fluid bottle. Move the pedal slowly and consistently while making sure the master never ever goes dry. If it does you gotta start over. 3,4, and 5. After all the bubbles have stopped coming out of the right rear re-install the bleeder and close it tight. Open Left Rear repeat process into the can, when bubbles stop close and move to the right front repeat process and close when bubbles stop, move to left front and repeat process. This should get all the air out, and works for me. I always let it sit for a day and then try the pedal. This lets the air seek its highest spot. If the pedal is squishy then grab a buddy and have him pump them and bleed out the air manually by pumping them up and holding pressure while you open the bleeder. Always make sure the master never goes dry or ****s air. Good Luck, tim
Make sure you bench bleed the master cylinder, that seems to be the biggest problem people have nowaday. Masters sold at parts stores no longer have the bench bleed kit with then, they just have a plug and your supose to stroke the master a bunch till it ****s down, well i still use the fitting and hose back into the resivoir method, i have had no troubles at all. and then like mentioned above, adjust all the brakes first. then start RR, LR, RF, LF. JEFF
...and the brakes will always feel like they have air in them if the shoes are out of adjustment. Adjust them up and the pedal becomes nice and firm.
The only problem I had was seating steel lines up to br*** junctions, the br*** was too soft and allowing a leak. I replaced the juction and seated the line against a steel fitting before fitting juction again.
its not always the right rear first...depends on how the brake lines are run...could be left rear first......you always start with the furtharest from the MC determined as the brake lines are run...my 2 cents worth
I used "speed bleeders" and they work. http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4ADFA_enUS431US432&q=speed+bleeder
I bought my first set of speed bleeders for an OT car project at the local parts store. They worked quite well, I would also recommend them. Just be sure you install them only once, as the brand I used had a sealer on the threads that kinda wears away if you fully remove them again.
I just redid all the brakes on my 32 Ford roadster. I bought a set of speed bleeders. I also highly recommend them. I have a better, stronger pedal than I ever have on the 32. 56 Ford F-100 brakes on the front with 62 Econline wheel cylinders. The 62 Econline has 1/16th larger bore than the original size 56 F-100 and actually cost less $$$. 68 Bronco 9 inch in the rear. 1 inch bore dual cahmber master cylinder ( non power ).
I think bench bleeding is useful, maybe mandatory, for dual cylinders. Never even heard of the practice in the days when all were single... Good master cylinder bleeders: Go to Napa, where they have a box full of ***orted fittings to adapt generic brake line to all the types of MC around. Get a fitting for each port, they are generally different of course, buy a short piece of brakeline, and cut and bend said breakline into 2 short curved pieces reaching up and into the reservoir. For cheap you now have bleeders that actually fit and seal and that will not **** air through a cheesy plastic fitting.
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