Murky fluid, black or brown is caused by a contaminant. Than contaminant either came from the re manufactured master or its ****ing it up out of tge brake lines you didn't replace. Easy to see during a bench bleed if its in the master. Murky, clean but cloudy is caused by air in the fluid. Lines can **** air and not drip, no drip until full pressure is obtained and seems you are far from.that. So is the murky black, brown, or just cloudy ?
I think the key is in the M/C bench bleed you had going on. No reason for anything to be different from front to rear pistons. Either there is still air trapped in the rear side of the M/C, or it's junk.
It's entirely possible for the reman to be bad in the box, a few years ago I had one that could not be bled correctly, the little kids in China or whereever else rebuilding them for 10 cents a day don't always get them right.
The fluid was just murky cloudy, not off colored. Probably cam from me getting frustrated and pumping the hell out of the brakes. I'm about to go take it off now.
If the line is full of air, sometimes you have to go through the process of pumping and holding while you open and close the bleed valve on the wheel cylinder a few times before you are actually able to pump up enough pressure to feel it. Listen for escaping air when you crack the bleeder... If that don't work, you might try to borrow a pump style bleeder from your local advance auto or friendly local mechanic??? Not much to go wrong with a rebuilt mc...
PIcked up the new booster and MC today. Bled it at the store to make sure all was well. It worked way better than the other two. Get it home and the brackets on the booster are wrong. And of course riveted on (I have my own heavy duty chrome brackets that are correct) I swear this is never going to end, someone is trying to tell me something.
Just installed the new stuff. no pedal. Used a hand pump device to bleed the rears and fluid barely trickled out. Did both sides several times and no change. Someone said that perhaps a rubber line had collapsed, but they all look fine. And correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a collapsed line create pressure and thus give me pedal?
yes you would have pedal but no stopping power, is the pedal coming all the way up on every pump? there is a return spring, someone may have allready asked you this.
I've also something about a 10lb residual check valve? It's supposed to be built into the MC was my understanding. But some don't have it?
so you can't reach down and pull the pedal up at all, not even a little? also did you get those plastic bench bleed hoses with your new master? maybe try that first, remember it's something simple, if the plunger in the master is returning all the way and fluid can get down into the bore then fluid will be pushed out the the wheels, something else, if your lines are full of air it will takes alot of bleeding cycles to get that all out. RPV's will not help in the bleeding process, they will not stop you from bleeding the air out.
just for sake of argument lets go over your bleeding process, you have someone in the car pumping, they pump 10 times and hold while you crack the bleed screw and retighten before they let off the pedal, i'm just trying to cover all the bases.
the pin is adjusted on the pedal so that it's all the way out in it's resting position, if that makes sense. We did bench bleed with those little hoses. Even did this last one at the parts store so if we were for some reason doing something wrong then they could tell us. As I said, this mc bled better than the previous ones. Should I disconnect one line and see if fluid squirts out the mC?
Yes that's how we were bleeding the brakes Also used the handheld pump that creates it's own pressure, you crack the bleeder for a second or so and then close it.
i'm just thinking starting from the begining, if you do have those hoses then i would try checking it on the car, the if that checks out go over all your fittings to make sure none are allowing air to be pulled into the system when you do relese the pedal, put a wrench on everything and also if there not new lines check for any pin holes under clamps or areas not easy to access, brake lines never semm to get holes in them where they are easy to see.
That's a good Idea with the bleeder hoses, I'll try that. Also, if a hose or line does have a leak, is it possible for it to pull air in without losing any fluid?
depending where a hole is located they can pull air back in, just like if your helper relesed the pedal before you closed the bleed screw.
I do not have one because it's a drum drum setup. The people at CPP said I don't need one, to just plumb the lines directly.
Tried the bench bleeding process with the MC on the car. Everything seemed to work as it should. So that means my problem lies beyond the MC and in the lines somewhere.
do just the back 2.start on right rear first,then left rear. then if still have no pedal do front only, right first, then left. then if you have no pedal the problem will be in mc/booster. if it comes down to it put old mc back on see. if you can get pedal then. if you can ,its not hoses. good luck and don't you HATE IT when 2-3 hour project turns in to a 2-3 day project you said only a trickle out of back when pumping pedal??
In one of your posts you said that you replaced the wheel cylinders. Did you adjust the brakes back out when you re***embled? If not chances are you will not get a hard pedal even if you did have good fluid flow. If you are bench bleeding the master and there is fluid from both ports back into the resivoir the the m/c is working. Try bleeding the master cyl. and then pinch off the front and rear rubber hoses. If you have a hard pedal then your hydraulics are good to this point. Next remove one clamp at a time untill the pedal goes soft and this is where your problem lies. Also you can verify the m/c by bench bleeding it and then cap off the fittings and try to push the rod, if it goes in m/c is bad, stays hard look elsewhere.
Ok, so I disconnected both lines from the MC and pushed the pedal down. Fluid shoots out of the front bowl but nothing comes out of the back. What does that tell me?
This is the 2nd M/C you've had do this, right? Sorry if this has been covered, but did you bench bleed it with short hoses going back into the reservoirs?
Loosen the bolts holding the master to the booster. The pin between the master and booster is too long.If it works OK.
so here where you say you tried bleeding the master on the car, you had the two hoses coming from the fittings going back into the top and you could see fluid coming from both lines? Tried the bench bleeding process with the MC on the car. Everything seemed to work as it should. So that means my problem lies beyond the MC and in the lines somewhere.
we took the MC off and brought it to someone to make sure we weren't doing something wrong. Apparently we were bleeding it correctly but were confused by what we were seeing, So the MC is fine. What I am being told is I need a proportioning valve? Everywhere I've read said that I do not need one on a drum drum setup I am being told that it hold the pressure in the line like a check valve. However, I was told that MC have a check valve built in. So i'm totally confused and no one seems to know anything for sure. The tech people at CPP told me I do not need the proportioning valve so I am kind of leaning towards the professionals on this one.
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