I did a search and didn't quite find what I was looking for. What I have is a basically stock 63 289 ford. I do have a small cam, a 4 barrel aluminum intake headers and a re-jeted Holley carb. I am running electronic dizzy. The question I have is would this set up put up with a small shot maybe 30hp of nitrous? I mainly run highway speeds and cruse ,although fast at times. I just thought it would be fun for those run what you brung nights during the summer. I do know I will need to "richen" up the carb to do so but I'm not sure of the rest. Thanks for any info info and advance, and please don't be afraid to tell me no.
I have ran several p***es at the strip in an of topic car spraying 150-175hp, I am about to put 150 on my on my ls1 slingshot dragster in hopes of an 8 sec p***. You do not have to richen up carb. Make sure it is tuned properly berfore you spray. Always run premium, pull 2 degrees of timing for every 50 hp of spray, spray above 3 grand, 1 heat range cooler on the plugs. Most of your kits the smallest amount is 50 hp. Hope this helps. I am a bit of a nitrous junkie, some people think it is cheating, I really dont care. Just love the speed. It does the same as a blower it adds oxygen to the combustion chamber.
30 you will not even feel .. it all depends on the miles the 289 have if it has less then 100000 a 100 shot will work all day long and you will feel it ..as long as your rings are good nitrous is not safe 4 himiles motors it will burn holes in pistons get by the rings and take out the main barrings super fast.. i did it on a himile sbc in 1 hit .
Is 30 hp a mis-print? With what you are describing, the smallest unit on the market, 100-125 hp, should be fine. No rejetting of the carb was necessary. You can also try sending a PM to BottleBob here on the HAMB, he built monster units for his cars.
The 289 I have is lower mile, has had the heads redone and doesn't burn oil. I'm just afraid of putting a ton of juice in it because more than likely I will have to drive whats left home. Lol. Thanks for the info guys, I'm more of a body/ fabricator type of guy.
Thanks g***ers garage. I was looking at the NOS sneeky pete set up that only gives a very small bottle and shot. Think the biggest jet was 50hp.
50-75 won't cause it any problems unless you don't get the fuel to it. DO NOT rely on carb jetting to make up the fuel. You need to add the specific amount of fuel for the nitrous, and only when the squeeze is flowing. Most all carb nitrous kits use a fuel jet along with the nitrous. A line taps in to the carb fuel feed. There is a recommended fuel pressure to run, and a map for selecting the correct fuel jet to match the nitrous.
So exwestracer, what your saying is a good "kit" should have all the included jets and parts. Can any one recommend a set up? I know its probably like asking witch is better Ford or Chevy? What brand or style has everyone had the most luck with?
I use an N.X.system on my car and have had great luck with it.I can tune from 50 to 300 HP with mine .It dosent matter which brand you use as long as you follow their tune up .
There are a couple of things you think you will not need, but you will. First an rpm switch or module.(Window switch) It will let you adj the on and off injection of the nitrous. 3000 rpm is a very safe rpm for it to turn on the nitrous. Your engine redline will dictate the cut off. I use a lower number than the redline on mine. Next a properly adjusted micro switch that closes at WOT only. If you do not have an electric fuel pump, you will need one. I am running 75 hp jets in my nitrous system (66 2+2 Mustang, 351W, C4, 3.50 gears)and it is a kick. They also make an add on for your ignition. When the nitrous is activated it also retards the timing. You can get all this stuff in one module, but I bought the base stuff and added it. Good luck, Good luck
All good advise here. Just buy a simple plate kit from Nitrous Express,NOS, Edelbrock, or any other quality vendor. Keep the shot at 100 or 125 on that 289 and you should be fine as long as the motor is solid. Follow their instructions, run the best gas you can afford, safety factor. Not taking out enough timing, and lean air/fuel is what kills parts. We started out years ago with a little plate. I'll warn you, this stuff is like a drug. You'll want more. I'm spraying a fogger with 48 pills[500 hp], and she'll live for forty runs before the edge of the valve pockets start rolling in. At this level, 1 degree of timing is the difference between fast and melted. Good luck.
I ran and old plate kit that is non adjustable 100 shot on my Olds 455 . The engine is internally bone stock unknown miles. With a Holey Blue electric pump and Q-jet carb. I sprayed it right off the line all the way down the track. Went from 13.50 to 12.52 . I ran a full 10 lbs threw that engine over the week end and never a problem with it . That 100 shot felt great couldn't imagine the what that guy a post up felt with the 500 shot.
I use a NOS Sniper kit on a mild street car. It won't support anything more than a 150 shot. Still uses the factory mechanical fuel pump. A bigger shot will require a seperate fuel system. It runs mid 14s on the motor and 12.90 on the spray. 283 in a 64 Chevy II. Been on the car for 6 or 7 years.
Window switch is a good idea, I never sprayed below 4000 rpm's in an late model combo (LS1) but maybe 3500 is safe I don't know. I'm ***uming you'd have to run sort of plate kit, and I'd spray at least 75 or wouldn't bother. I don't know how carbed nitrous kits work but I can tell you that nitrous if set up properly is fun. I was spraying 150 on a 10.9 motor car and went 10.008@134.
Thanks for the info guys, this is the kind of info I was looking for. Greg32, I have a feeling your right, if I a get a small kit, I'm sure I will want more. Railroad, what brand if you remember of window switch are you using? I'm wanting to get the "wish list" going and I want to start comparing parts. Also what electric fuel pump are you using, will I need to run a regulator to the carb? Or is the "boost" line plumbed in before the carb?
Just my $0.02, I use to have an OT car with a mild 60k+ miles Chevy 307 (holley carb, intake,mild port job, 270-ish cam and a stock bottem end. Ran a NOS Powershot plate system (125hp) many times without any problems. I didn't need an electric fuel pump or window switch, (although they would have been nice to have for sure) just a high volume mechanical fuel pump with a regulator and gauge, a toggle switch to arm and a wide open throttle switch to actually turn the system on .
If you do run the 50hp setup or less...I do not think I would move timing or mess w/ plugs ect. The engine should handle that...Once you start getting over 100-150 and greater shot you really need to have a handle on your tune-up running on just engine then adjust timing and run colder plugs ect. Althou I did not change my timing first time while running a 150 shot, I may have gotten lucky I still had plugs left, nitrous does not need allot of timing. I love the stuff and so did the Germans during the war, this stuff has been around a long long time...I got to the point where I would make two p***es and I was looking to fill the bottle to maintain pressure to ensure optimal function...The guys that really run this stuff hard go a single p*** and swap w/ a full bottle....Like they said above...if you start playing w/ the stuff...you will want more.....A full blown nitrous built engine is a different animal all together.....My engine is not a purpose built nitrous engine, but if you sneak up on your tuneup you can tune in a big gain.......I know you can twist the hell out of a Boxed Model A ch***is and bend dropped axles....all while smiling..... If I could tune six-two's w/ nitrous.....not knowing nothing about nitrous and not burn it down...You will be able to tune your stock engine and make it live and have fun...I have no wide open switch on the throttle, but a ****on on the steering wheel I operated...I had no controllers of any type, just a purge and a bottle warmer w/ a psi gage and a seperate fuel system, -10 plugs and played w/ timing. Just a bare bones setup....But If I had to do it all over again........For DeathsDoorStep running [ 8 ] carbs and nitrous....I am going to invest into more of a controlled system.....Its safer and more tuning ability......It was surprising how much harder the Truck was to drive by me needing to operate that little ****on on the steering wheel and keep track of everything else going on, like the Truck making a hard right turn all of a sudden.....I went thru a system check and did the same sequence while arming the system each time in attempt to avoiding making a mistake....Do allot of reading on the subject..allot of info out their and allot of bad info as well, you need to weed thru it...talk to people running setups ect.....It is amazing what is being done w/ this vintage gas ! I know nothing when compared to 99% of the people running the stuff.........Make your system safe and install it per instructions and you will have a ball..The Sniper system should work for you..Littleman
Cool picture littleman! Money is dictating how much of kit I can get at the moment(expecting a baby boy!) So hopefully I don't get bit too bad by the bottle bug.
The window switch I have is NOS brand. It uses rpm chips, you plug in to change the opening and closing. I think mine are 2500 or 2800 open and 5500 close. Probably primitive to the dial settings used now, but it keeps you from getting greedy. Hitting the nitrous before the engine can rev, like a low speed bog, will break it. I would look at a Holley pump. I cannot remember, red or blue. One is high volume and one high pressure. You will need to get the specs on your kit. They may recommend a brand and pressure on the pump. You will need a regulator, maybe two. The carb needs to stay less than 7 lbs (4-7) and the nitrous set to their specs. You can leave the carb on the pump you have in place. I am sure you will need to run a return line to the tank. This is not as difficult as it sounds, as most older cars do not have one. I punched a hole in the rubber filler neck and bolted a fitting with washers on both side to hold it in place, then attached the return line. Go ahead and run 3/8 or larger on the return. It does not need any return pressure restrictions. Try and stay away from the China pumps and regulators. I have heard most get to replace them, almost immediately. Unless you know the kit and person you are buying from, I would buy new on the nitrous kit. You don't get second chances, if you have something modified. Like trying to call a bullet back.
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