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Projects Our new Project: '36 Ford 5w Coupe Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by farmergal, Jun 26, 2011.

  1. PG
    Joined: Jan 14, 2008
    Posts: 170

    PG
    Member

    I'll be lookin forward to the completion. Thanks a ton for the offer of pictures. Honestly, I'm sure I'll need them for reference.
     
  2. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    thanks and if everyone else here has photos of their '35 or '36 5 window builds please post them. we could all use some nice photos so whe know what things are supposed to look like.
     
  3. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Let me know any specifics that you need and I'll take some shots of mine as it's rust free and complete. Hurry thought because it's getting an interior!!!!

    Looking great!
     
  4. I'm dealing with the same problem but I bought a car a little more complete. I just removed the rear end and had to relocate it as the spring perches were welded on 3/4" out of kilter, the pinion angle was way off. The rear end was out 1 1/8" from being parallel with the front. It was also off side to side 1/2". The rear was over tightend and the perches actually sandwiched the tubes!!!!! This was just the rear. The front end is actually 5/8" off from the frame.
    Pretty much everything that was done to this car, I have to remove and redo which takes longer than just installing right the first time. Everywhere I look theres misc. things that need redone. Some easy , some not so!!!!. It makes me real nervous as its mostly all together but did the torque convertor get bolted on with grade eight bolts? did the engine get built right, did the front end bearings get the right torque/backlash. There are so many things that I am now questioning. The glass that was put into the car is just floating and has fallen out of the quarter seals to where there is a gap of air now. The rear glass rolled down but he thought it was supose to be fixed. So it is held in with welding rod that fell out. The funny thing is that the regulator and winow gutter was in the box that I got from him? I spent 8 hours just trying to get the 3/4" shim out of the bottom of the door and then get the belt line close to good. There should not have been any shim in behind the hinge!! Oh well, making forward progress, but slower than I thought!!
     
  5. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    jeffreyjames:

    If you could just take some photos of the floors you put in and how they connect to the body, etc and then post them that would be a MAJOR help to us. If you put patch panels in too then some photos of them being put in and then connected to everything else would also be great. thanks much!!!
     
  6. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere


    :eek::eek::eek: oh dear Lord!!! I hope everything is straight on ours after we fix up the body! the frame was untouched until the guy before us purchased it. he put in some sort of kit to make it a tail dragger or something like that ( i forgot what he did) and put a 50's chevy rear in it). It doesnt look bad but we do have some things to clean up on the frame. we're missing the brackets on the frame that hold their rockers and running boards on. anyone have photos of this stuff? Are the 36 fords supposed to have subrails after the rockers behind the doors or whats the deal??? We have the rockers that we purchased from Mac's but we have no clue how theyre supposed to fit in and whats supposed to be where. any photo help is GREATLY appreciated
     
  7. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    If I can help with pictures I will also. I have floors with some bad spots.

    Just pulled sheetmetal and steel from the entire inside of my 36's floors. Just about 200lbs worth! Covering decent floors. All of it was riveted in over roofing tar. 2 weeks of nights removing tar and mig'in little holes.
     

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  8. PG
    Joined: Jan 14, 2008
    Posts: 170

    PG
    Member

    Wow, I don't know whether I'd want no floors or go through what you did. My Model A floors looked about the same when I "tried" to remove them.
     
  9. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    wowzers! see if you havent posted photos we wouldn't have known there was a "ridge" there in the center lol. We were just going to make our own floors and put them in. hahaha. Now I'm not sure we want to do that!
     
  10. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Yeah it was a pain in the butt. Torch helped to soften the tar! It's weriod, it probably took a lot of work to cover the floors in sheet metal the way it was done, seems to me more work then fixing the bad spots.

    I think the tar actually preserved the floors some!!! I want to use as much of the original floors as possible since they are there.
     

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  11. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Ha ha! You guys can do it!!!


     
  12. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    our floors are completely rotted off at the A & B pillars. the bottoms of the inner wheel wells in the back are gone and re-manufactured using chicken wire and about 5 inch thick Bondo :). That was the first thing to go. i think we're going to get the rockers on and put in the patch panels with tack welds and then just lay the floor and go from there. we can always tweak something if we have to. So far the fenders look pretty good with limited botched work and such. thank god. Our luck is that the rest of the body (from 5 inches on up) is solid and dent-free. This coupe must've been sitting silent somewhere for a loooong time. We;ll find out more when we get the age-old primer off of it but it'll be awhile. I just want to drive the damn thing!! :)

    If anyone wants to see how all the details are done from the rockers, A & B Pillars, floors, Patch panels etc...check out FOMOCOKID's 35 3 window coupe build. His build and his chronicle of pictures has been VERY helpful to us. i've printed them all off and into a folder for us to reference in the garage.
     
  13. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    I know what you mean about driving it. Mine was a running driving car before I took the sheet metal floors out. Now it doesn't move. Keep at it they will run again someday!

    I agree, Fomocokids build is great. Very talented builder. JeffreyJames and whippets builds has been a great help as well for me.

    My minor A pillar/lower cowl rebuild. Cut it back till you get good metal!
     

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  14. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    thanks so much for the photos! this is whats going to help us move along on the '36. If it wasn't for the generous fellow HAMBers; we wouldn't have a clue so thank you!! keep'emcoming if you got them! I know there areplenty of other HAMBers who are building this same car who need them too
     
  15. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Hey Farmgal where did you go??? Looking forward to the progress you two are making.

    btw: is that a FFA holstein standard in your aviator.
     
  16. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    Hey Saxon:

    Sorry we havent had the time to work on the '36 lately. We've both had hectic schedules and on Saturday a Nor-easter just Slapped us in the face. No power, no phones, no cable, no internet....and def no working on the car. Maybe tonight we will get out there
    and work by candlelight :)

    I promise to keep everyone updated once we actually start having some time!


    Oh and my avatar picture is the Holstein heifer that i've been showing! :)
     
  17. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    That'll put a damper on things.

    Looks like a picture from my FFA days.
     
  18. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    so here is what was accomplished last night:

    Made up some super nice brackets to attach the rockers to. yippeee. Gotta start somewhere i guess. Just hoping to get the floors in. once that floors are in we can put the patch panels in and its downhill from there. Hoping to have this sucker mobile by summer 2012.

    rocker.JPG
     
  19. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    What I have done in the past is measure it up, weld in bracing so it doesnot move ( a pillar to b pillar on both sides then cross from b to b and then from a to opposite side b and so forth. dont forget the c pillars as well. ) then take it to the sand blaster. Money well spent to be sure you got everything. The hardest part about replacing rust is doing it in sequnce by what the manufacturer had done in the past. What I mean is if the wheel well is rotted for example, you have to remove the quarter panel first to get to the well. Maybe even some of the rocker first. I do this stuff everyday. I am doing a 56 ford that even needs a roof right now so if you need any assistance, please PM me. Feel free to ask anything. Project looks good. I am just placing the finishing touches up for a customer on his 36 5 window now.
     
  20. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    thanks. yea the car came to us torn apart with bracing in it so we dont really know if anyone actually made sure the car was braced when it should've been or not. we went to another '36 5 window and measured door openings and width, etc to make sure we were spot on with the bracing. all appears to be ok. the car has zero floors in it so thats the tough part. the wheel wells were already cut out and bondo'd back together with chicken wire. we're just going to cut the lower 3-4 inches off the entire car and start over. thats whats going to have to happen...we're just doing it peice by peice so we know what has to be done. we just wish we had more to start with. we've never worked on anything like this; the car came to us in peices, we dont know what's missing in terms of brackets and such....but our main priority is getting the body solid so we can take it off the frame, clean up the frame & paint it and then start fixing other issues. It just seems like we cant see the light at the end of the tunnel sometimes :)
     
  21. heyitsnate
    Joined: Apr 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,774

    heyitsnate
    Member

    I posted some pics in my build thread, I'm doing some rocker reconstruction on a 36 coupe. Don't know if it'll help but I know how hard it is finding reference photos!
     
  22. Well now I'm sad :(
     
  23. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    Don't be sad grits!! Joey will make you a bracket! Haha
     
  24. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    Well; we finally started work on this coupe last night. Joey is working on making the brackets to hold the rockers, putting the rockers in, then making the floors. Its a very "trying" process :)

    I took ou the D/A and a dust mask and started going to town on the body. This primer has been on this car for quite some time. Surprisingly, not much damage to the body and not an overly abundant amount of bondo on the upper portion of the body. Its very clean. We're stripping it now to make it easier to put patch panels on etc. Eventually its going to be soda blasted inside and out before we start fixing any dents. We dont want any issues with rust.

    I did find out that the Coupe was probably black originally. Thats the first coat thats on it. Then a rust redish color (layer of primer?) over that and then WHITE! The white paint inside the door jams is hefty stuff so I'd say the last color this Coupe was, was WHITE!

    Joey put the rockers on as a mock up and then put the door on and discovered that the rocker does not meet up with the door and there is quite a gap between the rocker and the door towards the rear of the car. the front portion of the door meets up pretty nicely. Is it supposed to look like that?

    Anyone have photos of the floor area with the door on after rockers and floors were put in? Picture reference is proving to be a big help in putting this back to normal.

    387304_10100351879826891_9033825_51274398_1959035554_n.jpg
     
  25. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    Drivers side rocker is mocked up and temporarily put in place on the car.... Very exciting! Brackets are done for this side.... Now have to make them up for the passenger side. Once the rockers are set in stone; time to rebuild the subrails and the. Put the patch panels in place. Progress is starting to be made. Lots of learning being made...
     
  26. bagged36
    Joined: May 27, 2011
    Posts: 21

    bagged36
    Member

    Good luck with the build. Looks great so far.
     
  27. Just found this and got caught up. Great stuff Farmergal.
    Should be done by your guys summer.
     
  28. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    HAHA! I wish it'll be done by summer. It'll be a nice goal :) We're hoping to have it on the road by winter next year. It probably wont be painted but it should be rippin down the streets and thats all that matters :)
     
  29. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,321

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    "Joey put the rockers on as a mock up and then put the door on and discovered that the rocker does not meet up with the door and there is quite a gap between the rocker and the door towards the rear of the car. the front portion of the door meets up pretty nicely. Is it supposed to look like that?"

    My '36 3-window also had a big gap between the rocker panels & the door towards the rear. Unfortunately, I now have the doors off and the body stripped and on a dolly in storage until I finish the frame and I neglected to take pics of the gap.

    Maybe if you ask the question on Ford Barn, someone over there might have pics of it.
     
  30. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    we actually fixed the gap problem last night! :). We've got it down to a 1/2 inch gap which is supposed to be there for the weather stripping etc. Thank god that problem is resolved. Now everything should fit together nicely. we got the doors lined up with the body lines too :). Thanks for the help!!
     

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