A rant about rustoleum paint

don't know if you can get this over there Tremco we used it for our life time rust repairs

 

Cool, I didn't know that. I'll definitely be using my respirator. Thanks for the info!

 

I used Indian Brick Red Rustoleum primer on my 1931 Dodge coupe when I was 15 years old.....I am 59 now and from Detroit to San Diego to Phoenix, Oregon it has lasted and it has never come off...I could be a salesman for that stuff. Notice the bare metal on the cowl.

 

KENNY! I second this brand of paint. Their spray bomb paint is killer too.

 

The restoration paint gives a nicer result than the equipment grade.

 

It was a real bummer for me when Krylon changed from lacquer to enamel!

 

I love rustoleum with acrylic enamel hardner. I usually thin with whatever is handy ( a friend said he used gasoline when he was in Nam ) . Think it works great ! they did change it a few years agoand took the lead out, that was bad especially forhte rusty metal primer, which was always a favorite. The Chasis Black is great stuff but kinda pricy... I only do one paint job myself, thats satin black, hides alot of sin....

Cheers!

 

I saw that the aforementioned "Vansickle" brand,handles ACRYLIC LAQUER clear now in quarts and gallon sizes......15 a qt OR 33 a Galllon!!

 

A year ago I rolled my off topic 85 Elky with Rustoleum...50% paint, 35% mineral spirits, 5% acetone.
Went on great, paint, sand, paint, etc.
The last coat froze over night and the paingt crystalized. Until that it was going on sweet.
The stuff is hard as a rock now and doesn't chip or ding easily.
Looks ok from 30 feet with no buffing.

One of these days I need to finish that.

 

I like Valspar a lot better than Rustoleum. Rustoleum takes forever to harden. Valspar dries faster, I also use Valspar hardener availlable at the same store I buy my Valspar paint. I also use it in Rustoleum when I have to use it. Dries pretty hard overnight. About $15 a half pint. 1 pint to a gallon.

 

Might have not frozen if you put that last 10% of ingredients in!

SPark

 

Acrylic enamel hardener will let it dry pretty fast and hard, and it will last a long time. I paint several circle track ch***is with Rustoleum and hardener every winter, and the cars look good after a couple of seasons of hard dirt track use on them.

 

mineral spirits + japan drier + warm room. in fact i just dry sanded some with 600 after 18 hours, let it cure and buff it to a shine. but I am willing to try that valspar, sounds nice.

 

Back then the reducer was based on fish oil.Also I believe it contained a certain amount of lead(as did most paints).I used to use it for striping before I found out about 1-Shot.

 

Hey,

If you're not going to use a hardner with your alkyd enamel I'd suggest you NOT cut&buff it! Alkyd enamel dries from the outside in by solvent evaporation & oxidation. If you coloursand an alkyd finish you open up the pigment to attack from oxygen, and thus it chalks up faster. The faster the chalk forms, the faster the paintjob dies.

The addition of a hardner to an alkyd enamel converts the alkyd resin, thru an acid in the hardner to a product better able to fend off oxidation, & improves adhesion & colour holdout.

I'm gonna go put my "Mister Science'' hat back on the shelf now

" Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "

 

Just brushed some Rustoleum black onto the steel wheels I have the snow tires mounted on for my DD. It is important to knock the big dirt clumps off first, use the pointy end of the brush handle. I use cheap chip brushes and just chuck em.

 

Today I also did some wheels that a neighbor tossed. [was about to buy some from the wreckers too.]

Sprayed rust black outside because it was unusually warm today.
Then within an hour it Rained! The drops left little pockmarks in the soft paint.

So I put them in the garage and got a big cardboard box and a small electric heater and made an oven to cook them one by one.
They're dry to the touch now anyway.

 

The beater I just retired, a white Chevy van, had rotty doors on it, so when I got it two years ago I changed all of them as I found better ones in the junkyard. Well, although some of the replacements were kind of white, none of them matched exactly - so all of them got painted with spray can white Rustoleum after some sanding. The side doors I put on came from a conversion van with all the stupid stripes and things, they were dark blue with light blue stripes. I didn't even prime them, used about 2 spray cans on them, ran them through at least one winter, and just swapped them to the replacement to that beater - another Chevy van - because they were better. No issues with the paint, and the color of the striping doesn't show after about three coats. Never wash the thing, don't particularly treat it that nice (it's been a flea market hauler full of car parts and **** for two summers) either.

That said, I think they've thinned it a bit, I have a lot more problems with it running than I used to, I did basically a quick and dirty job on those doors with no runs at all, but I've been touching them up (actually turned them upside down and painted the bottoms before I put them on) as well as the rest of this second van and notice if I hesitate at all with the can it tends to make a run. I ended up damn near painting this entire van, because this one is another conversion and it was easier to get rid of the silly stripes (some of which were even installed crooked when they converted the thing) to match the plain doors I put on than to try to make the doors match the existing stripes.

And that 2X coverage stuff they sell in some stores now? It's still thinner and the 2x stuff is ****, it takes two-three coats to cover well too. I only tried it because it was a buck cheaper a can and one of the colors matched my interior fairly well.


FWIW, one of my old beaters got painted with left-over True-Value Rust-X out of a gallon can - and some of that never did quite dry, three years later the ends of some runs were soft to the touch when I swapped out the doors on that one to get another year out of it.

 

I found the metalics are not as tough as the solids. It's the only thing we found that lasts for engine and suspention work. We use the gray the the ****pits of any race car we build.

 

Rustoleum doesn't dry, it just eventually attracts enough dust to make it not feel sticky anymore.