Jag IFS brake question (what mastercylinder?)

Gathering parts and info to do a Jag IFS swap on my daily driver '59 F-100. I'll be running the stock 9" out back and was wondering what I need as far as master cylinder and proportion and maybe residual valves to make it all play nice together?

My truck has the stock 292 in it, will I have enough vacuum for a power brake booster?

New parts are ok, but also open to u-pull-it suggestions.

Thanks.

 

Bttt

 

I run a Jag IFS in my '53 F100 . Have used a HQ Holden master ( Australian GM ) . Its a 15/16 bore Dual with a residual ( I'd expect mid 70's mid size GM usa cars to be very similar ) . I don't run a booster , the stock F100 pedal is long enough that it gives plenty of leverage . I'm also running a drum brake 9 inch in the rear .



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I used a Mustang 1" bore in mine, worked perfectly.

 

Perfect! Thanks guys.

Langy, was that a disc/drum master?

 

Early 70's Mustang is a 1" and disc/drum for manual brakes is available. If you want to go to a 15/16", a '76 Granada has a disc/drum for manual brakes.

 

I swapped the front and rear 86 Jag suspensions into my 53 GMC project. I am using the orig Jag master cyl and booster, mounted on the firewall. Since the stock GMC is under floor, I got an S-10 swing pedal and the bolt pattern for the booster is the same for the Jag booster.

 

Ok now that I have your attention, Is there anyway I can run my stock ford wheels on the Jag F/E? They are a 5.5 bolt circle and 4" back space and about 6" wide.

 

jag is the same stud pattern as chevy, i would think it would be easier to get new wheels than change the stud pattern

 

Only way to run your truck wheels on the Jag is to use an adapter. Jag is 5 on 4.75 (chevy pattern as stevie said). Be careful the Jag wheel inner hub hole size is larger than the normal Chevy is, so you need to either get wheels with larger center hole, or machine down the Jag hub OD a bit. The difference is not a lot, but enought that stock Chevy steel wheels will not work.

 

damn, looks like I'll be stuck needing two spares then, or redrilling the rear axles to 4.75" and getting four new wheels

 

I'm running a disc brake explorer rear with the jag ifs on my F1. 7 inch dual diaphram booster on the firewall, 1 1/8 "corvette" mc. The pedals are from an early 90's jeep. I have a prop valve plumbed into the rear line, and no residuals because of the firewall mounted mc. Vacuum on a mild 350 sbc is enough for the booster. It all works fine. The pedal is firm, not squishy, with very good stopping power. I went with the larger bore mc at the advice of my local hot rod shop. He wanted to ensure that four piston calipers on the front and the single on the rear would have enough mc to feed it. I think if I had gone with the smaller mc I'd have a soft pedal with more travel. As it is, I like the pedal not moving much, you push harder to stop faster.

 

Yes mate, had a 9" in the rear with the 11" drums, Braked well but had to use a proportioning valve in the rear line.