I finally managed to complete the disc brake conversion on the Plymouth. The last piece of the puzzle was the brake hoses that I had to have custom made to get the right fittings. Surprisingly, they were within a few dollars of the auto parts store hoses that Scarebird recommends (and do not fit). When the brackets arrived, I immediately test fit them only to find they are designed for a flat spindle mounting surface which my ’39 Plymouth does not have. Mark at Scarebird is now aware of this design flaw and said he’d address it. In the meantime, I had my machinist make me (4) .150” (2 for each side) spacers to give a solid mounting surface. The same machinist turned down the hubs 3/16” to fit in the rotor hats. While the hubs are off, it’s a good time to repack the bearings and install new dust seals. I got the rotors from NAPA and had them turn them for me. They have a machine shop on site. The turning isn’t absolutely necessary but I wanted to be assured of a totally true surface to start with. The brake pads came from AutoZone, just across the street from NAPA. Options abound for pads; I got the cheapest I could find because this isn’t going to be a commuter car. Just down the street at O’Reilly’s, the calipers were a measly $9.99 with $5 core and lifetime warranty. I did the mock up with Grade 5 hardware from True Value but used Grade 8 from McMaster for final assembly. On my ’39 coupe the calipers will only go forward of the axle, the rearward side has the steering arm in the way. I used McMaster 92620A658 3/8”-24 X 7/8” for the top bolts but if you use the stock thick lock washer or similar, McMaster 92620A655 1” is a better choice. (and they’re a few bucks cheaper) The bottom bolts require two different lengths because of the staggered thickness of the steering arm. I used McM 91257A750 1/2”-20 X 2 1/2” and 91257A750 1/2”-20 X 3 1/4”. The 2 1/2” is just barely long enough but 2 3/4” would be too long and I didn’t feel like having to grind them down. I recommend re-using the stock nuts on these bolts if possible. Don’t forget to cross drill and cotter pin the bolts once tightened. I determined that I needed the shorter of the two hose options that Scarebird recommends. They were $30 at NAPA but turned out not to have the right fitting for the Plymouth hard line. They are 3/8”-24 and the Plymouth is 7/16”-24. I could get adapters, but it was only a few dollars different to get new hoses made. Another bonus is now the hoses are USA made instead of China. So here’s the brake down(pun intended): Scarebird disc brake conversion kit: $161 shipped Machining of hubs to fit rotor hats: $25 Four steel .150” spacers for bracket to spindle fit: $20 Brake rotors from NAPA: $50 Turning brake rotors: $25 Brake pads from AutoZone: $15 Calipers from O’Reilly’s: $30 including core charges Custom hoses from Andy’s Supply: $33 Grade 8 hardware from McMaster: $36 Total: $395 Special thanks to Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC, Mark of LKQ ATV, Bob and the crew of NAPA, Will and the crew of AutoZone, and Ron at Andy's Supply.
Had to use a chevy van on the drivers side and used a vega on the pass. then used a Master from a Dodge Datona mounted in stock location worked real good.
i am doing the same thing on mine i wood like to no if you left the same master and if you used ajustable valve
i am doing the samething i wood like to now if you are using the same master and if you used ajusteble valve
The Jalopy Journal
