I finally managed to complete the disc brake conversion on the Plymouth. The last piece of the puzzle was the brake hoses that I had to have custom made to get the right fittings. Surprisingly, they were within a few dollars of the auto parts store hoses that Scarebird recommends (and do not fit). When the brackets arrived, I immediately test fit them only to find they are designed for a flat spindle mounting surface which my ’39 Plymouth does not have. Mark at Scarebird is now aware of this design flaw and said he’d address it. In the meantime, I had my machinist make me (4) .150” (2 for each side) spacers to give a solid mounting surface. The same machinist turned down the hubs 3/16” to fit in the rotor hats. While the hubs are off, it’s a good time to repack the bearings and install new dust seals. I got the rotors from NAPA and had them turn them for me. They have a machine shop on site. The turning isn’t absolutely necessary but I wanted to be ***ured of a totally true surface to start with. The brake pads came from AutoZone, just across the street from NAPA. Options abound for pads; I got the cheapest I could find because this isn’t going to be a commuter car. Just down the street at O’Reilly’s, the calipers were a measly $9.99 with $5 core and lifetime warranty. I did the mock up with Grade 5 hardware from True Value but used Grade 8 from McMaster for final ***embly. On my ’39 coupe the calipers will only go forward of the axle, the rearward side has the steering arm in the way. I used McMaster 92620A658 3/8”-24 X 7/8” for the top bolts but if you use the stock thick lock washer or similar, McMaster 92620A655 1” is a better choice. (and they’re a few bucks cheaper) The bottom bolts require two different lengths because of the staggered thickness of the steering arm. I used McM 91257A750 1/2”-20 X 2 1/2” and 91257A750 1/2”-20 X 3 1/4”. The 2 1/2” is just barely long enough but 2 3/4” would be too long and I didn’t feel like having to grind them down. I recommend re-using the stock nuts on these bolts if possible. Don’t forget to cross drill and cotter pin the bolts once tightened. I determined that I needed the shorter of the two hose options that Scarebird recommends. They were $30 at NAPA but turned out not to have the right fitting for the Plymouth hard line. They are 3/8”-24 and the Plymouth is 7/16”-24. I could get adapters, but it was only a few dollars different to get new hoses made. Another bonus is now the hoses are USA made instead of China. So here’s the brake down(pun intended): Scarebird disc brake conversion kit: $161 shipped Machining of hubs to fit rotor hats: $25 Four steel .150” spacers for bracket to spindle fit: $20 Brake rotors from NAPA: $50 Turning brake rotors: $25 Brake pads from AutoZone: $15 Calipers from O’Reilly’s: $30 including core charges Custom hoses from Andy’s Supply: $33 Grade 8 hardware from McMaster: $36 Total: $395 Special thanks to Scarebird Cl***ic Brakes LLC, Mark of LKQ ATV, Bob and the crew of NAPA, Will and the crew of AutoZone, and Ron at Andy's Supply.
Had to use a chevy van on the drivers side and used a vega on the p***. then used a Master from a Dodge Datona mounted in stock location worked real good.
i am doing the same thing on mine i wood like to no if you left the same master and if you used ajustable valve
i am doing the samething i wood like to now if you are using the same master and if you used ajusteble valve
The Jalopy Journal
