large deep paint chip,how to fix?

I really screwed up and chipped about 3/4in.+ round chip out of my sons T-bucket body right on the side cowel bead,of all places.
Need best plan of DIYS fixing. He's thinks I can fix it,but I like any input I can get.
Was just painted too,so have some of same paint and clear coat on hand,It's dark metallic Blue with clear coat on it.
Chip is like deep,about down all three of the old paint jobs to gelcoat almost. Whats best filler and way to bleand in all of it?
Man I feel really bad it happened,I screwed up by,left the dam chuck key in the drill press turned it on latter by trying to turn it's light off that I also left on,so call me a dum ass,but I need to fix this.

 

Try taking a small touch up brush and gradually build up the chipped spot with paint until it sticks out further than the original paint (let each new application dry before new coats and stay in the lines of the chip). Once thats done sand it out with some 1000 grit sand paper until smooth. Rub with rubbing compound and buff. It probably won't be perfect, but it will cost a hell of a lot less than a new paint job! Good luck

 

You cant do metallics that way, the sanding will bring the surface doen to bright metallics.

Three layers deep? Not much hope there. If the solvents in your new paint wrinkle any of the older layers...


Me, I'd start by encasing the layer seams with a waterborne primer. Sand to level, no deeper.

Fills as needed with Evercoat Spot Lite. Only as needed! Sand carefully to minimize extra sanding damage. Extend sanding lines to 4X the repair size with 400 grit wet or dry. Prime again with waterborne.

Wet sand the primer with 600 grit wet/dry, and extend the size to 6X. Wet sand again with 1000 grit wet/dry to 8X.

Paint the base by airbrush with a slower reducer than you might use with a big spraygun. Paint and blend slightly further than the 6X boundary. Clear using slower reducer to the edge of the 8X boundary.

Dry...

Wet sand the outer edge boundary and body of the repair, compound, then polish.

Hold your nose just right.

 

Thanks TJD,but it is ,metallic!
Ob1,that sounds like a plan of atack to go with

 

Damn if that doesnt sound like something that happened here, only difference is mine was wind and a cursed piece of metal firring strip that went for a swim. You can build it up with a dab here and there letting it dry in between each time, then wetsand it, I can come over and blend it if you still have some color left then blend the clear and polish it out

 

Design your flames to cover it

 

Can you take a pic and post it?
Use a fine brush and put some high fill primer in it. I would not take it to above surface, you dont know how thin the clear is around the area. Get an air brush and some blender. I did fixes like that before and won contest, just when certain light hits you can see, but others that done know where it was will seldom see it.
Use some blender in the paint thats airbrushed on, then use clear to finish the build up, remember to put blender in the clear.

 

I've seen more than one car with flames or additions to the paint to cover a chip including things like a rose or some other small design right over the repaired chip. I'd think that almost every striper that has been around a while has come up with a design to cover something like that.

 

super glue the chip back in

 

Hopefully you have a clearcoat on your metallic paint job. If so -
I'd first mask the edge of the chip. This is important to keep sandpaper from damaging the existing paint and getting filler where it doesn't belong. scuff the inside of the crater good with a 200 grit or so paper. Get a good glazing compound, mix it up, and fill the hole. Sand the filler down to the masking tape with paper on a block, the masking tape will help keep the paper from scratching the good surrounding paint. After you sand the filler level with the masking tape, remove the masking tape and wetsand the filler flush with the surrounding surface with 320. You should also sand the repair with 600 to remove any visible scratches. I also cloud up the surrounding area of clearcoat also. It only takes a tiny bit, but then airbrush your color onto the repaired injury - fogging the edges into existing. When color is sufficiently blended, then airbrush clear beyond your work onto the scuffed clearcoat - I clearcoat at least 4 to 6 times. The new clearcoat can then be wetsand blended into the surrounding existing clearcoat and buffed to a polish.
All this should be done very carefully as to not cut too much product off. If your metallic has no clearcoat, I don't know that you can try anything other than blend the panel in.

 

My sprung-seatpost once pulled a big paintchip off of my panhead and I superglued it back down. It went on seamlessly and lasted a year before I dropped a screwdriver on the tank.

After that I had to repaint everything.

 

on a side note my drill press chuck key has a spring in it that pushes it back out of the hole. you can't leave it in even if you wanted to.

 

That would of saved my dum butt

 

Thanks for the great tips guys,I'm doing all the wiring right now,be getting back to fixing paint in a few days,soon as I fully think out all this super info
I can't even fined the chip any were or even little parts of it,I know it's here some were,did look for it a long time,thinking if it was one big chip or close,I would try gluing it back,but no luck there.

 

Wicked and Ob1 gave you all you need the air brush or carefully with a mini jet are definitely what you want to do for the base since its metallic.

So take your time don't rush and definitely protect the surrounding area as to not make a larger area. It will be visible on a dark color like that but unless you get into fixing a slightly larger area and re clearing a larger area and clear blending a section your best bet is to try the above.

Plus clear blending is not for a novice painter. I don't like doing it myself because that can be a pain, bite you in the ass, and also stick out on a dark color.

Even if it looks good right away it normally begins to show after a while in the sun.

 

A update,got it fixed from the great info I got from you guys.
Run down of info used from above;
Very lite wet sanding with popsicle stick with 600 glued to it too fether edge just were chip is,then filled slowly over a week by brush and sealer primer tell built back a little above all,wet sand again to smooth to rest of paint just about 1/2in. around old chip,then air brush with color two times[no sanding it's matalic]then cleared three times over laping only about 1in.,let dry for a week,then buffed .
Match up can't even be seen if ya don't already know rite were to look!
Thanks much for help,you'alls input did the job.