Help YBlock guys

So I know when setting up the timing gears on the 292 you set the dots away from each other 12 pins apart. I just got a rebuilt 292 in my truck and I cant get the timing set right. Will the engine run if the timing gears are not set right? I would imagine not.
I have tried setting it at the factory recommended 6 degrees and it doesnt run real well. No matter what I do with the timing(retard/advance) the truck will stall out. The truck idles fine when I have the timing set in the middle point. I can rev it up fine also, but if I floor it it will bog down big time(almost stall). The carb is new and still running factory settings.
Any recommendations?

 

***uming your cam timing is correct but you are having difficulties get it to run properly when you set up the ign timing with a timing light, then I would suggest setting the timing by ear till it works good, setting the ignition timing with a timing light will not work to good if your vibration damper has slipped which I've experienced before, all this said, I've also asumed your carb is in good order.

 

Like desotot said, look for a slipped damper 1st. If you have the "3 spoke" damper TDC mark should line up in the center of one of the spokes.

 

Ok thanks for the information. i will double check it to see if the timing marks are in the correct spot. I have tried timing it by ear and that is when I am experienceing it running smooth at a certain spot and then if I retard or advance it starts running bad.
Any idea if the engine would run if the cam was timed to where the dots on the gears are lined up instead of 90 degrease out?

 

Does your chain have like a br*** marker at 14 pins,if not the you can start at mark between teeth next is 1 ,count out 12 pins then next is the mark.So when done you will have one pin on each end total 14 pins.

 

Aren't the gear marks supposed to be inline, next to eaach other ? All the cam gears and sprockets I have ever installed were done that way......

4TTRUK

 

Then youve never worked on a Y-block. We pushed one about 50 miles in high school auto shop before learning that

 

i ***ume the damper is off that engine? a different y block damper could have different placed timing marks. ray

 

What carb and distributor or you running?

 

The timing cover is still on the engine so i cant count pins. But I'm thinking about pulling it because I cant figure this one out so I'm really thinking that cam timing may be the cause.

Im also ***uming that the damper is the one that belongs with this engine, I cant be sure of anything about the condition of this engine. I bought the truck not running and I have got it running but cant get it driveable.

It has a Holley 2300 carb and a FOMOCO 12127 distributor. Both are factory parts if my research is correct.

 

The only help I can offer is in the form of photos of my damper for comparison.

I don't believe it was spun, perhaps the only way to know is if mine and yours are identical.


The 0 degree mark in relation to the Keyway.



The 10 degree mark is almost centered with the spoke.

 

Pull the valve cover when the piston is coming up on top dead center exaust the exaust valve should close and the intake should just start to open at TDC. Infact an old trick with single pattern cams was to set the engine on TDC and lay a straight edge across the lifters if they were the same hight the cam was straight up.

 

Yes my damper is the same.

My #1 cylinder is set correct at 0 degrees on the compression stroke. Both valves are closed when the piston is TDC. I was just wondering if its possible to have that happen and the cam timing not be correct?

I thinking I am going to pull the valve cover and bar the engine over checking that the piston is TDC when the valves are closed for each cylinder in the proper firing order, prior to pulling the timing cover. Any thoughts or advice?

 

Had a friend build a y-block on a table. Installed the timing chain with the motor upside down. It wasn't until they had pulled it about 50 miles that they realized the timing marks were on the wrong side when they ***embled it.

 

The outside of the dampner will turn on the inside. My Z/28 stocker engine was off 6 degrees. Id verify the pin spacing on the timing gears, verify the marks on the dampner are at TDC, then verify the distributer is in right. It will run if all thats correct. Put the timing marker on 6 degrees before TDc and set the point opening with a piece if cigerette paper when it pulls out of the points at 6 degrees its ready to fire

 

You need to check the valves at TDC exhaust stroke thats when both valves should be open at TDC. On compression stroke they are both closed for a lot of degrees. The timing mark doesn't know with stroke it's on.

 

Ford or Merc that is the question?

 

i ***ume you have a dual action timeing advance which works on carb and manifold pressure. ensure these are working correctly and check your rpm at idle. if it idles ok but stalls when accellerating it sounds like your va***e advance isnt working. verify that your advance works and eliminate this possability.if advance works go to the rest of the ignition system , wires plugs points cap coil ect. might help!

 

not sure about timing marks on a 292 , however my 368 timing marks are standard set ,you put crank dot at tdc and cam dot at bdc so there closest to one another.a straight edge through the center of the crank and cam should also run through the dots on crank and cam. easy good luck ray

 

OldTC's looks right, I just looked at mine on the stand. With #1 at TDC and the timing links to the right, the crank keyway should be at about 7:00-8:00. That puts the TDC mark on the pulley at about 11:00. This is an F100 engine, p***enger timing pointer may be different.

 

You might check for pluged exhaust.

 

I was kind of wondering that my self. It had originally a inline 6 and the guy before me put 2" down pipe and then reduced it to 1 1/2". I was wondering if the small exhaust isnt allowing the V8 to flow well enough?

 

So it has been a while since I have posted anything. I have gone back through everything from verifing the cam is timed properly, checking the firing order, tried a new coil, verified 12v to the coil, compression, all valves are moving and are set.
Some additional notes, if I try to advance or retard the timing it has virtually no effect, samething when adjusting idle mixtures screws. I dont have a vacuum gauge but it seems like it has low vacuum. Also my adapter for the oil filter started leaking. Is it possible that the down draft tube is stuck/clogged and will be causing all these issues?

 

Way back when I was a kid a friend rebuilt a 283 Chevy and it would not run right. Some one suggested to check the exhaust manifolds. They were plugged with carbon not allowing any exhaust out of engine. Wild guess but you never know.
DT