6v guys need some help cold day and starts

Why fight it. 12 volts is the solution.

 

I cant seem to find straight 30w locally maybe I will order some. Going to look the welding supply place tomorrow for some 0 or 00.

With 8 volt you have to adjust the voltage regulator right? Seems iffy.

wood470 - If you have to ask you don't get it. 6v is where its at.

 

Just picked up some 2/0 cable this morning at the welding supply place. Making some cables tonight so hopefully that helps.

I found some 30w oil would that be better or should I use a 10w30?

 

Change your oil. Change your battery cables to 0 or 00 size. Check your grounds.

 

1/0 unless you can find some heavier. Think Kenworth or Peterbilt. Block heaters are 110v, just plug it into the wall,(unplug before extended driving).

 

no you dont have to adjust anything.i put 8 volt batteries on all the 6v cars i ever had.i just always made sure i had good cables and clamps. and 10w30 or straight 30 oil in them.that 8 v battery sure could spend them cars over good. back in the day i had this old 49 ford 2 dr. loved that flathead 8.but when itb got cold, saylike in the teens that damn thing wouldm turn over a few times and thats was all she would give.i put a 8 v in it and it was like night and day.but if my car was like when it was new a 6v should have done the trick when it was in the high teens.maybe not when it got much colder. anyway make sure your good to go and cables and got the right oil and stick a 8 v in there and you should be good to go.

 

All good advice on here about larger cables and oil, don't use either unless you just have to, it has no lubrication properties and can wash cylinder walls clean of oil if used excessivly, no one here asked what size battery your using, if you have a cheapo that only produces 600 cranking amps thats part of your problem, get a group 4 I believe and those are 9 to 950 CCA they are a little on the big side but I've started flat head sixes in 30 degree weather with them just fine. 8 volt batts are just volts the amps are not much more than a 6 volt and the reg needs to be benched to charge correctly, I pull the 8's out and put the 6's back, makeing sure the cables and starter are in top shape. Also the larger the battery the less chance of sulfating soon so you get longer life.

 

I'm guessing VA is warmer than MN, but 30w is still too heavy. Like mol***es when cold. If the mill doesn't burn oil, or leak much, I'd use syn 10w-30, at the most, preferably 5w-30, or even 0w-30 - maybe.

As mentioned, 00 gauge on the cables, w/copper ends. Br*** for the battery terminals - don't use cheap clamp-style here - overkill is needed w/6v. & the heaviest ground straps $$ can buy. Semi-truck or bus stuff. Or make them from at least 0 gauge cable. Run from the starter to frame, engine block to frame, engine block to body, body to frame, & battery to frame. I don't mind crimping ends, if it's done correctly, but if crimped, I like to dip ends in syn dielectric grease before crimping, & either way, always use glue (inside) coated shrink tubing to seal the ends/joints to stop corrosion there. Only have to do this once... Use synthetic dielectric grease under & over the mounting bolts, after cleaning/s****ing/etc all grease/dirt/paint from what you bolt them to. & on the battery terminals, too. This grease is rather sticky, & hard to get off you &/or anything it touches, w/o a good brakecleaner, but *is* worth the h***le. Stops corrosion for a long time.

A bit of ether isn't always a bad thing.

HTH.

Marcus...

 

With a good battery and going back to points and consenser it will start better,unless its a real tired engine.

 

Like suggested, everything needs to be in good shape.

Personally, I'd use 20W or lower viscosity below 40F (I think that's what Ford recommended)

In my 39 Ford w/6V driven daily down to 0F, I used to dilute my summer oil with Fuel or Marvel Mystery Oil when it first got cold (30-40F), then changed to 5W-30 once it stayed below 32F (MN winters are a challenge) I kept a magnetic sump heater on it all winter...

You should be able to adjust the regulator enough to use a 8V battery if you decide to go that way as well... A screwdriver and voltmeter is all you'll need to do it... I have the manual, PM me if you need the instructions...

 

2 Gage is all you will need.

If it fails to provide enough amps there is something else wrong with the system and a bigger cable like a 1 gage won't help.

Your battery will not put out more than a 2 gage cable will handle anyway.

Unless you are running a cable of 6 feet or more you won't have amperage problems to the ends of the cables.

Somehow I missed your post stating that you found bigger cables.

I type slow but not that slow.

****
.

 

I got the cable already guys . I plan on making them tonight and see what happens. If need be I will move to 30w oil as thats what the shop manual says.

George/Maine - I am not going back to points/condenser as with the petronix it starts better even compared to new points/condenser.

nrgwizard- be careful with dielectric grease it does add resistance which I am trying to avoid. My 8ba is older so syn would be bad for oil.

Vimtage Iron - I am running a napa 6v they only had one for my truck. I am not sure the specs but will look tonight.

 

We had a 1940 Ford when I was growing up in Minnesota in the 40's and 50's. It was kept in an unheated garage, but other than changing to 10 weight oil and mounting snow tires, I don't remember making any special preparations. Think it did have a head bolt heater and we put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. Dad's job (airline pilot) required that he have dependable transportation and I don't recall the Ford ever letting him down.

 

For really cold places part of the secret of survival was having engine in perfect tune so it would light during the few revolutions it had...with some valve leakage or crusty plugs life would have been pretty dismal.
My '48 would NOT light in Vermont where the really bad nights got beyond 20 below without a 12V jump...that was a very tired engine. On leaving, I did NOT turn off the car until I p***ed the southern border of New York state. I ***ume Vermonters did not have to miss work until 1953 when they could get a 12V jump!
Anyway, it was easier to move the girlfriend south than to overhaul my motor. Leave places like that to the ice weasels.

 

I've got a 6-volt system,
and found the optima battery makes it so much better.
There's 800 cold cranking amps
and 1000 cranking amps.

http://shop.optimabatteries.com/pro...g+Battery/part_number=6V/1737.0.1.1.0.0.0.0.0

versus about 450 on a normal battery.
I had the same optima for over 8 years so it's worth it.
(Even after many many run downs leaving it out in the rain)


Also,
I'd make sure your brushes and commutator are clean and bright.
A slow system seems to varnish or burn them,
or it could be the other way around!

Good luck!

TP

 

oil pan heater andmaybe a battery heater or at least a blanket.
My dad never had problems with cold starts with his 6V cars back in the day as I recall.

 

I did not get a chance to make cables last night as I think I am coming down with a bug. On a side note I do think my battery is playing a part in it but I can not prove it. Napa tested it fine and they will not replace it under "warranty" unless it fails their tester but I really feel its not holding a charge 100% or even close.

I might bite the bullet and just buy an optima. Would the Optima Batteries 8010-044 linked be the right battery for my truck? My truck is not in their vehicle look up.

 

I remember to old days starting a car with 6 volts.
What I remember was pump the gas few times,push the clutch is so trans does,nt turn thick oil,and hope for the best.I think the battery were better then They sold a lot of them,I think they stay on the shelves to long.2 years was about long enought.
New battery sounds good to me.

 

I think there are only 2 versions of the optima 6-volt,
the revised style and the original style.
which is like 1/2" bigger than the old one.
you won't regret it.
TP

 

Just how did the world get their freakin' cars and trucks started in the mid-50s and earlier when almost EVERYTHING had 6V systems?
Proper gauge cables, clean terminals, clean grounds, working chokes, and the block warmers like the embers under the oil pan (not good for a Model A or early Chevy that has rear main leak problems unless you have insurance).

 

when you connect your ground to the frame run another from that point to the block or the trans. this makes a huge difference in cranking.

 

Years ago, my Dad used a dipstick heater in the 1948 Plymouth during the winter. You just plugged it in to a 120V outlet, and it kept the oil warm. And a can of ether starting fluid was a necessity. Usually if the planets were in their proper alignment, and there wasn't a full moon, and you were lucky that day the old girl would fire right up.

 

Heaters and such will help but are NOT necessary until you move to Fargo. Find the problems and Virginia will not offer problems.

 

Come on guys - our parents / grandparents could not run down to NAPA and buy 12v fancy batterys plus they could not spare the money they needed to feed our mouths. They used dip stick heaters, light bulbs next to battery, blanket over the engine, had starting fluid, and kept the car well tuned. If all else failed the next door neighbor would use his car to push theirs down the alley to start it. I don't know when the cars started coming with 12v systems, but do know they were 6v for over 40 years. So that should tell you something!

 

If you run an extension cord to where you park, put a trouble light with a 75 or hundred watt bulb in it under the hood next to the battery. When you go out and its 20 degrees, the battery will thinks its 50. Just remember to remove the light when you drive off. You can also run another one and put it on the intake near the carb, then the gas will think its 50 also, and for 15 bucks a set of new sparks plugs will also work wonders. might give the points a couple swipes with the points file and make sure they are gaped correctly.

Getting a car ready for winter always included a fresh tune up, and throwing the snow tires on the week after Thanksgiving as long as I can remember for my did's cars.

As noted lots of 6v cars started all over the country before 12 V was introduced.

make sure your ground cable is conected to a clean and rust free bolt. A couple degrees more advance in timing works also.