I need to find the gauges or the info to make them to set-up my oil-pan before I reinstall it on my rebuilt engine. I purchased an engine core sight unseen to be rebuilt. The seller stripped off most of the parts and sent them to me ahead of time, while the core was being rebuilt. I had the exterior of the oil-pan powder coated and it looks like a million bucks! Trouble is, it is slightly distorted as the mounting flange is not true, and it needs to be straightened. This is not a big deal on its own, but there are other specs that should be strictly adhered to, (according to the shop manual) and I need to check them. 1. Connecting rod dippers on the engine has to be set using tool J-969-3. 2. Oil nozzle height using depth tool J-969-2 3. Oil nozzle aiming using target gauge J-969-1 (Oil nozzle adjusting wrench J-793-2.) 4. Oil trough depth using J-969-2. Essentially, I need to obtain either the tools themselves or the info to make them. How do other people do it? I dont think it would be wise to ignore these adjustments? Where can I get this stuff? Thanks!
The local mechanic in the '50's shot water through the pan nozzles and set the height with a piece of wood on the pan rail, but I don't know how thick the stick was. It had grooves cut in it for aiming the nozzles horizontally, too. He wasn't a GM employee, so they wouldn't send him the factory metal gauges. The troughs should be easy, if the engine has never blown up and bent them. All the same height and straight across should do it. As for the dippers themselves, I never saw him fuss with them, if they were bent he replaced them. Easy to find new ones back then! If I have a pan that's bent I just find a better one, but yours has had some cash put in it. Should have checked it first, maybe? Above all, don't put the dippers on backwards! The single most common failing of a dip engine o'haul.
Not that I don't think a 216 is a good engine...but...All those sheetmetal parts that had to be cut ,bent and welded to the pan.You would just think it was easier and cheaper to have drilled the crankshaft for full pressure oiling being GM had many other full pressure engines then.
Several years ago, I made up 10 sets of gauges based on original ones I had borrowed. I kept one for my engine and sold the other nine sets. I may still have the drawings I used to make the gages and will look when I get home for them. If I do, I'll get them to you. -Bob
Great thread Chev48, and TagMan your drawings could help a lot of us I'm sure. Thanks for sharing your work! Other options would be to rent them from Chev's of the 40's for $450 deposit but you get $400 back when its returned. Not bad I guess. http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail...T_TOOL_FOR_OIL_DIPPER_TROUGHS_IN_PAN_400.html But if you need dippers you can get them from Chevs or Fillingstation.com. They have NOS ones or repros I believe.
Thanks everyone! Fantastic advice and guidance as usual! You got to love the H.A.M.B. It would be nice to have the dimensions to build my own tools . However for a mere $40 I think I will go with the Chevy’s of the 40’s option. The illustrations and instructions are great, Especially the oil distribution method. Why they didn't offer a full-pressure system is a bit bewildering? I did ask the re-builder if he would be willing to drill out the crank-shaft, and he convinced me that the extra-cost was probably not worth it. (At least, to have him do it.) *************** Today I screwed down the oil pan to a 3/4” piece of plywood and tapped it down where required with a wooden dowel to straighten out the flange. I’m not sure what else to do? It will always screw-down flat however I think it has to be straighted to adjust the jets and dippers properly? *************** Any advice here will also be greatly appreciated! Thank You All!
I looked for the drawings, but I must have tossed them when I decided there wasn't enough interest to make another run of them. Sorry.......
Update on oil-pan straightening: As mentioned in previous post, my oil-pan flange was badly distorted and for anyone who might have this problem, I would like to share how I straightened it. I screwed the oil-pan down firmly to a 3/4” piece of plywood. I then tapped the flange down with a wooden dowel that fit between the oil-pan sides and the upturned part of the flange being careful not to over do it. I then, for insurance, I heated up the kitchen oven to 450 degrees (about the same as powder coating temp) turned off the oven and placed the pan, still screwed to the wood, in there for about 30 minutes then let it cool. I unscrewed it from the wood and it fits perfectly onto the block. Just like new! Thanks!
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