Weld in crossmember or bolt in?

I have installed 7 M II crossmember type suspensions in 42-54 Chevys.
I hold or have held 11 different welding certificates in pipe, structural, and crane jib welding. (now retired)
None of this makes me an expert.
But, my experience has taught me a few things.
1- A company that makes a fine unit for a Ford or even a Chevy p/u truck ain't all ways the best supplier for one going under a Chevy car.
2- These frames were never designed to be welded on. I don't know of any of my personal installs that have cracked, but I have seen two of these frames that cracked about 1/2 inch off of the welds.
3- The 5 cars that I put Ch***is Engineering kits under have had zero problems, one of these has over 50,000 miles on it.
4- The frames under Kenworth and Peterbilt heavy trucks are bolted together, and have an excellent reputation for durability and toughness in an extreme environment.
5- Not all of the information you see on the internet is accurate.
The C/E units also fit well compared others that I've dealt with.

 

Peace of mind, bolt it in heres why.

bolting it in will help insure it is in the right place and square with the frame.

You can do it yourself.

You can take it as a roller to a certified welder if you choose to have it welded in.

The factory front end was bolted in so strenght, weld vs bolt isnt a concern.

MrC.

 

I really don't want to start a ******* contest here but a 46 Ford frame is made to be more flexable than the corresponding Chevy frame just because of the suspension design. The transvers spring design put a lot more flex to the frame than the independant front in a GM or Mopar car of the era. All that being said I think if all of us did a little honest reflection here we have seen more cracked/broken frames on all old cars with welded front ends than Chevy boltins. I have never seen a Chevy frame (40s-54) broken out around the steering box but I have seen Fords, Mopars and other GMs do it

 

Quite the debate going on here.
If you decide to bolt it in road, let me know and ill come hold the light, or hand you tools ill
bring my own tequila.

 

a 110 welder? i agree with blue one, i welded my mustII, trans x-member and boxed the frame all with a 110 flux core welder. i too use to weld for a living, a good weld is a good weld. you are no better off with a poorly done 220 weld than a poorly done 110 weld.

using the 220 is better than 110 argument, anyone could argue that a 440, 3 phase welder is the only proper welder to use. most bad welds are caused by poor penetration or too much heat. with poor penetration the weld just lets loose, a cracked weld is usually too much heat. you can have both with a 440, 3 phase machine, just as you can have a good weld with a 110 machine.

i personally like my 110 lincoln weldpac 100. i have never run out of gas. most mustII x-members are 10 ga or 3/16'' steel. a 110 welder will handle either just fine.

 

Thanks for the input everyone, definitely helped me out and bolt in it is. Ordered it from CE now just have to wait 6 weeks to get it. And, vicky with the hemi i'll let you know when me n my buddys will be wrenching in the garage

 

I agree Blue One. I have a Lincoln 135 and I wouldn't hesitate provided you know how to weld. The 115 Volt welders are rated to weld at least 1/4 inch thick steel which is much thicker than any frame material you will encounter in these cars . And even if the cross member material thickness is greater , penetration of more than the frame thickness is wasted. If you are a decent weldeer , can run good bead in any position with good penetration , then go for it.

 

clean surface, good wire, and good penetration is the key. the 115v welders handle the job fine.

 

A MII front designed by ford motor was one solid piece after market pieces are just that the spring hats are separate that is why I say weld it.

 

220 MIG or TIG . 115v will not provide sufficient penetration.


my metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com

 

Wrong and you don't even know it. Did you even bother reading all the other responses ?

 

I cannot tell you weather to weld the front end on or not. I built all the crossmembers and welded spring and air bag perches on my wagon all with a 110 mig, plus other projects. As long as you do all the prep work right and set up the machine correctly you will get the proper penetration. Most of the pieces on cars are 1/8" or less, which is withing range on 110 machines. Of course practise a lot berore you weld on the frame.

 

that 1/8'' metal is tough stuff
only a 440v 3 phase welder will do

 

Totally correct- you can do it with the front bodywork still attached, as long as the motor is out.

You WILL have to trim the inner fenders a bit though.

The test fit:



Everything squared up and ready to bolt in:



Bolted in, painted and ***embled:



This took me a total of one weekend, accounting for beer.

Awesome... check my blog or PM me if you get stuck on something

Agree- which is why I went with a bolt in... in fact, the HARDEST part of this build was getting the old crossmember out, and that was pretty easy all things considered.