Need help starting restored/rebuilt 235 Chevy

OK boys, I'm really hoping someone with this exact experience can help me out.....

I just finsihed the total resto of a 56 Chevy 3100. Beautiful.
Rebuilt engine (by a machine shop). I installed new wiring harnesses (which where effed-up from factory, but corrected now). I am pouring gas into carb (rebuilt carb today). I have spark. It's timed correctly (I've done it 3 times now!). It cranks fast. There's 12V to coil when cranking and 9 when not. It fires a bit, then just cranks away. It fires better/longer with ETHER than gas. The plugs are gapped to .045, the points are gapped to .016....(I'm not a beginner at this!)....

But the damn thing just won't catch!!

Any ideas appreciated!

 

just trying to help here so dont shoot the messenger...... somtimes the timing can be 180* off. Is that a possibility or does it run long enough to know its timed right?

 

If I ask for help I won't shoot!
I know they "can" be, but I don't see how it can be (180 off). I've gone to TDC 3x. Every time the rotor points to the same spot. That's gotta be #1. From there it's 1-5-3-6-2-4. The dizzy only goes one way - with vaccuum cannister at front.

 

You could have the distributor body in properly but the shaft could still be 180 degrees out.

 

Hmmmm.....Ok, let's say I pull it out and turn the shaft 180. Won't that just put the #1 on the other side and then I'd have to re-lace the wires?

 

Both valves are closed on #1 as you come to the timing mark, right? I like my points at .019

 

You bet. Whenever I checked for TDC it blew my thumb off. I can see the piston in the SP hole and once I took the valve cover off and the valves where clsoed (pushrods loose).

 

OK, then we like the timing. try .019 and I like .035 on the plugs. neither one of those should be big problems but you never know.

All the valves were adjusted OK in the rebuild?

The nice thing about these 235's is if you get them close they are going to run.

 

Oh yeah, there is spark at the plugs when the ignition is on, right? You can get them to spark?

 

I'll try .19 tomorrow morning. No rattle in the valves and they have dabs on them, so I'm ***uming (I know!) they done them....but I can cehck that too.

And I agree - close enough should run!

 

Oh yeah - again, 3 days of this and I'm not a beginner. Spark, gas, comprsssion. Today I checked it with a plug out, then later with a screw driver on the #1, then even did the #2 for kicks. Lotsa spark. I even had a couple carb fires (using ETHER...) today....

 

fuel pump ?

 

It would still start and you could keep it running pouring gas in the carb. Though I may just hang a gas source above the carb to maek it easier...

 

thanks guys - I'm going to bed. Tomorrow I'll check compression and the crank marks, then re-gap, re-check TDC, hang a gas source from the hood and try again....it'll either start - or leave as is!

Add as you like, I'll read your thoughts in the am!

 

Put the ether down and back away. If it is right it will start on gas. Lippy

 

x2!!!

 

I had the same problem with my 235. I could only work on it one day a week due to my job and after several weekends, many new parts and adjustments it turned out to be a bad distributor.

 

Carb fires sounds like timing and/or valve adjustment...(too much ether?)

Does the engine have a good ground?

I run a line from a gas source up front rather than above and go to the fuel pump. Then check to see the gas squirting down into the carb. Fuel air screw adjusted close? (1 1/2 turns????)


I'm no pro,
Larry

 

OK, if thats the case, its gotta be a fuel problem. Looking like either the fuel pump or the carb

 

I would start with the basics.
neg ground with 12 volts,correct coil and resister,clean and adjust points.Pos on coil dirrect to batt for testing don,t leave on long on when starting,both valaves closed tdc # 1

 

This is why I like having an old gl*** fuel filter by the carb so I can rule out things like the fuel pump with out getting gas everywhere

I agree with 6inarow, I have always timed mine by ear and it runs like a scalded dog.

are you running a single rochester or multiples?

maybe Im wrong here but given it fires with ether but dies sounds to me like its in your fuel delivery.

I have had pumps that were weak before that would move fuel but not enough?

worth a try anyways.

after of course you verify youre not 180 out

 

You've gotten some good advice here, as usual. Just to recap: plug gap should be .035, point gap for new points is .019, for used points it's .016 (or if you have a dwell meter 26-33 degrees)

I haven't seen any mention of the timing mark on the flywheel so just in case you're not aware of it - on the 235's the timing mark is a "BB" or a metal ball inbedded in the flywheel and can be seen through the hole in the bellhousing just above the starter.

With #1 piston (#1 is closest to the radiator) is on the compression stroke (both valves closed) the points should just be opening as the ball (or "BB") lines up with the pointer in the bellhousing hole and the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower.

Keep pluggin' away - this baby WILL run!!!!

 

when they ***embled the engine was the cam timing correct???ust askin..with the timing mark at the balancer lighned up , both valves should be closed...thats fire position for #1... any differences ,night be the problem. you can set the static timing so it fires right at the balancer mark- with ign. on ,plug out with spwire hooked to plug-plug grounded-turn distributor to predetermined mark you made where #1 is on dist.housing and block.plug will fire if everything else is adjusted right///... i love these long winded procedures...anyhow you should find your problem getting this all set up....ive had my 54 chevy with a 6 in it for about 35 years.. started workin on it at about 14....................k

 

A fresh engine always seems to need extra gas, dump a cup to cup & 1/2 down carb.

 

Thought I'd update a few of my threads!

This beauty got all finished up - runs fine now and is going to it's owners home this week. BTW - oldcarfart had it partially right, as well as needing about 2 gallons in the freshly cleaned tank to cover the pickup tube and get the fuel flowing!

 

I had a 283 once that I rebuilt and really struggled with distributor placement. It took me about a week to get it in there right. I was off a tooth and it acted just like what you are describing.

 

Wow, e-tek...looks sweeeeet! Beautiful truck too. Seriously...the truck looks absolutely perfet.

Glad you got 'er running.

 

And off she went:



I remember when it showed up:

 

When done the truck won 1st Place in cl*** at the Draggins Custom Car and Rod Show: