347 stroker 13:1 compression beast

I have a problem, This motor is straight up nasty, Love it. It runs 10's all day, The problem is that it will not start once it is HOT. I have tried 2 starters, wrapped starter with heat shield, ran a power and ground directly from the battery. The timing is at 10* , even at 8* still will not start. I have to wait literally a hour for the car to crank over. It is just got me baffled. If anyone has a little insight on this Please let me know. Thanks fellas......JEFF

 

We had a similar problem on one of our vintage race cars. We had to have a second solenoid wired in series because the one mounted on the mini-starter would get too hot.

It doesn't sound like it would actually work, and when the old guy told us about it, we were skeptical. But, we mounted it up and it works much better.

 

Does "not start" mean cranks slow, or cranks fast but just won't fire, or ???

A voltage drop measurement between battery + post and the starter terminal while cranking would show if connections, cables, or solenoid have too much resistance. Much more than 0.5 volts is a problem.

Between - post and starter housing should have similarly low voltage drop, but is measuring cable and connections, including how well the starter housing is bonding to the block.

Also the battery should measure at least 8.0 volts across the terminals while cranking

 

crank it with the ignition off. then once the engine is turning switch the ignition on.

 

13:1 is not helping,make sure you have a good geared down mini starter

 

At 13:1 you must use a quality (read: name brand designed for racing) mini starter. You must also have as direct and robust a connection to it as possible.

 

X2, no where near enough info here to do anything but throw darts at it.

 

Mini starter or remote (Ford type) solenoid is what is popular with the Pontiac crowd. I have an IMI mini-starter, nice unit. RobbMc is currently offering 25% off at the Performance Years website.

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html

http://www.hitorque.com/searchresults.asp?cat=24


Only for hot start problems, prolly won't help swollen internals.

Greg

 

The starter is a ford racing starter, bought a good mini starter ,But it wont fit with headers. I have tried firing with no ignition and it still wont crank.. As for what is going on is the Starter will not attempt to turn motor at all. Solenoid is not clicking like a dead battery, Its like a dead draw from the battery and the power wire gets hot...All connections are tight . If I let it sit and cool down Fires right off, but around 200* if i turn it off I'm stuck for a hour. Even if I hook a charger up or try a Jump start NO GO....Thanks for the input fellas.......Jeff

 

I had an issue once, but not on a hard hittin engine. Do you have good pistons? Hell, they could just be exspanding too much at full temp.

 

It's a pain but next time you have an hour to kill pull the plugs and crank it over (hot) that should eliminate some guess work...................

 

is this a later model starter with the solenoid on it? You may be able to switch to a fender-mounted solenoid. Header wrap or a starter blanket may also help. It sure sounds heat related.

 

my drag motor years ago gave me the same problem, as stated before try the separate mounted ford starter solonoid . its not expensive to do, and may solve your problem. if you google it i think it will come up on how to wire it. its the older style solonoid that mounted on the fenderwell on 60s 70s fords, galaxie, torino etc.

 

If it is not spinning then this is a good possibility or the starter is swelling up.
A video would be helpful.

.

 

Maybe try an ignition box with a start retard system or upgrade to a 16v system if this is a racecar only...

 

XX2 Or even try to spin the motor over by hand to check if its your starter or motor

 

What size battery and where is it mounted? We had a Mustang drag car with a 351 Cleveland and on that one we used two 12 Volt large capacity batteries in the trunk with a paralleling switch so that I could get double the amperage when cranking, then go back to just one battery once started. This is a setup commonly used on boat applications.

I would also bump up the size of your battery cables to something like O size, or maybe number 2. Run your ground wire (of the same size) right to the bolt that holds your starter to the block so you have full power right there where it is needed.

If that doesn't do it, you have some tightness issue going on in the motor. I have a similar 331 stroker in my 27 (but not 13 to 1) and it cranks the same hot or cold.

I would also put a breaker bar on the crank and see how hard it is to turn when cold, then do it when hot and see if the engine is tighter.

Don

 

If its a Ford motor, doesn't it already have an isolated solenoid?

 

I have run a 13/1 BBC with the curve locked out (full 38 degrees at cranking speed) the starter would still spin it. My guess is something is wrong with either the starter (too hot? Gary could be on to something here ), the wiring or ground. Solenoid could be sticking, but if thats the case, usually they will chatter, and make some noise. I guess the pistons fitted to tight is a possibility, but if they are, starting it will be the least of your problems. Look at the obvious stuff first, rule that out before you start looking for really esoteric stuff.

 

Good advice regardless, but if this was going to fix this particular problem, I would expect it to crank slowly. If I'm reading this right, when its hot it doesnt crank at all?

 

Don't know what a Ford racing starter is, but the old remote solenoid (Ford type). Or Mini starter that doesn't have the attached solenoid. Call the guys at IMI in Wnittier, CA. They make starters for everything. Certainly not the first to run into this problem.

 

Have you run a ground from the engine to the frame? Made sure the paint is cleaned off at the ground contact points? I have had the same problem with kick-ass motors and a trunk mounted battery before, scraped the paint off the frame rail at the ground, problem went away.

 

Before I made a lot of changes, I would put on some BIG ASS American made CABLES.

 

It does have a remote solenoid on fire wall, Battery is located in the trunk, I do have direct connections from battery to the starter (ground and power) both are # 1 cable. The motor is Built correct Ross domed pistons, AFR 205cc ported and polished heads. Yes it is in a 89 Mustang that I have raced this engine for 2 yrs. now. I really apprieciate everyones imput one the mateer THANKS JEFF

 

Has it had this problem for 2 years? What battery are you running?

Don

 

Check batt voltage, might have weak Alt.. Maybe not getting enough charge and is running down the batt by the time you try and restart.
13.1 shouldnt make a diff.

 

big output battery and big thick cable. make sure both ends of cable cannot be puled loose also check that ground

 

I have used two Optima D31M's (total: 2250 CA, 1800 CCA), each with its own positive cable to a separate solenoid, to start a big NA Diesel with 24:1 compression. You need a ton of potential amperage AND a way to get it all the way there.

 

IMO "00" cable might make the difference.

 

I had the same problem with the Comet 425" Windsor and Modern Mustang started it ended up being a bad conection on the ground wire. It started fine cold but would drag slow warm.