Our 56 9 p***enger is running the stock drive train. It is worn out and so a deal has been done to get an engine in the works. I bought a useable 700r4 from an astro van, don't remember what year but I think I will at least have it looked thru with upgraded servos, etc. The engine. My carb guru guy wants the fenders off my coupe so we have worked a trade for an engine he is going to do for me. It is a late 70's four bolt 350 block, been bored .030 over. Using Keith black pistons and rods. The rotating ***embly has been balanced with the dampener and flexplate etc. It is using stock over the counter Aluminum chevy zz4 type heads from the dealership, brand new. Intake will be a performer rpm with a 600 edelbrock. I will run the tru ram cast manifolds from Speedway. 2 1/2 inch He has estimated with this setup it will be a strong 385 horse on a dyno. On the cam he mentioned a 292 or a 270. The 292 has to run a stall converter, will have a nasty thump, no low end vacuum for brakes, and should run a lower gear. The 270 he said should pull really well, still should be able to "hear" the cam. He said this was the biggest cam, generally that you can run with out going to a big stall converter. It will also be very streetable. His recommendation is the 270. I don't know about lift, duration, which rocker ratio etc. But he is on a pit crew for a drag team, know's his stuff, and I trust his work. He has done several multi carb setups for me and for my friends. So for this application, a family cruiser wagon, not a hot rod, will this still be a streetable setup. I want it to be easy, get in and fire it up and drive it 100 miles away at the drop of a hat. But have some scoot to it if I want it. How bout some insight from you guys, and maybe some questions that I should ask the builder if needed? Thank you, Joe
X2 on the smaller cam. Running in OD without low gears will need something in the low to mid range. I run a Comp 268 in my 350, and it does quite well on the street, in a full sized pickup. The idle isn't too bad either. Mine has ported 305 heads, flat topped pistons, and a 500 cfm Holley 2bbl. Single exhaust to get by emissions with a cat converter. You might want to ask him if that cam's lift will live with those heads. Some only take something like .465 before they bottom out on the valve seals. And I really don't know which ones they are. Good luck.
im running about 360 hp in my 41 olds with the 700r4 i have it geared at 373 to 1 it is pretty good on the street i cant imagine your car weight is to much heavier than mine that olds is a tank.
Sounds like your engine guy knows the score. I would put my trust in him and stay away from the big thumper to avoid issues etc. It should sound tough enough with the 270 lift. Good luck on the project. Loves me them 56 Chevy wagons, as a matter a fact, never met a wagon I didn't like. ~sololobo~
My OT truck, listed below, is running a 383 Smeding EFI crate motor that dynos 419 hp, 465 lb ft of torque. It is backed by a 700r4 with tough clutches and a stock stall converter. The cam is .468/.478 lift, 210/220 duration and 1.5 roller rockers. It is very streetable with plenty of vacuum and a decent idle. Your combination should do just as well, IMO.
Sounds like all solid advice. Using the 270 cam. Is that the degrees of rotation the cam is pushing up on the lifter then valve? Is there a lift I should be concerned with or are they matched with the duration?
The lift will be proportional to duration...the cam can only lift the valve so fast, and if it has more time to do it (longer duration) then you would have more lift. Don't worry about it.
Your guy knows what he's doing. The only suggestion I would make is to use a hydraulic roller type cam with the same specs. If you run a flat tappet cam you will have to use one of the specialty oils or a zinc additive. I'm also an old wagoneer. First wagon I ever bought was a '56 Chevy two-door. That was in '64 and I haven't been without a wagon of some sort since. Yours is a fine specimen.
I race 700R4's and know quite a bit about them. First and formost be certain that the ****** you have has a 30 spline input shaft. The alternative has a 27 spline input shaft and those do not hold up at all! The 27 spline shaft 700R4's basically self destruct due to very weak internal hard parts. The next thing you want in a 700R4 is a good case and there are 3 different ones. There are markings on the bellhousing on the right (p***enger) side just above the hole for the dip stick. There is an "MD8" case, a "K" case and a case with NO markings on it, this is the one you DON'T want. One on the problems with 700R4's is heat and this heat warps the cheezier case with no markings causing failure. You want at least an "MD8" case. The "K" case is a little better (stronger) than the "MD8" case but is not necessary for your application. Upon rebuild tell your ****** guy to install the "Corvette" servo and the "red" friction discs. A shift improver kit, like one from B&M would be better but not totally necessary especially if you're not a fan of "crisp" shifts. Get yourself a new O.E.M. General Motors T.V. cable and the proper brackets for the T.V. cable and carb. The adjustment and operation of that T.V. cable will determine if your new ****** lives or dies a very quick death. I have seen guys use fancy/pretty Lokar cables and smoke their ****** in 1 day. I also recommend using an external ****** cooler and NOT running your ****** lines through the internal cooler in your radiator. Again, heat is your enemy and by running your ****** fluid through your radiator you pick up your engine's heat as well as not being able to disapate your ******'s heat. B.T.W.: Kool Wagon!
Thanks guys, im not trying to question him, just get a little more understanding of it. The only downside is I bought some bellflowers for it but the inlets are only about an 1 3/4. He said I should run at least 2 1/4 all the way. I think I may make some out of stainless or take these and cut the inlets off, stub in larger pipe, weld then rechrome. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks guys, im not trying to question him, just get a little more understanding of it. The only downside is I bought some bellflowers for it but the inlets are only about an 1 3/4. He said I should run at least 2 1/4 all the way. I think I may make some out of stainless or take these and cut the inlets off, stub in larger pipe, weld then rechrome. Any thoughts on this?
Just so you know, you'll have to add the "mid" mounts to bolt in the 350, or at the very least use the aftermarket brackets that will bolt on the back of the bellhousing and go to the holes where the original powerglide bolted up to the frame. Something has to support it in the middle....I ran a similar combination in a '55 wagon with a 3.55 12 bolt....the super low first great of the 700R4 will give you a nice kick in the pants at launch!!
Why not a crate engine? do***ented HP & torque, warrenty, excellent prices and a wide choice of power selections?
I think he is spot on ... dual 1.75" tubes would be extremely marginal for your level of HP ... 2.5" would likely be best.
Very good info, based on experience, thank you! I will check the one I got already I will be getting the bisquit style speedway sells, I think they will be best, and I will add and additional ****** crossmember as well. Thought about it but, my guy is very experienced, wants my model a fenders in trade, and I just want to support him instead. In addition I want more that the 270 hp or whatever it is. If I compare the larger HP crate motors, I am not sure it would be any less.
What rear gears are you planning on running? I have heard with the 700r4 and 200r4 set ups, 4:10's are the "all around" gear choice, especially with a load or a waggy full of people.
That depends, the 700R and 200R are not identical, the 700R has a 3.00 to 1 first gear and the 200R is 2.75 to to 1. Small blocks like the 700R better for the lower first gear. I use the 200R behind my Olds 455, getting motivated from a stop is NOT a problem with that beast and a mild 3.42 rear end and the 200R shifts cleaner in my opinion with the closer ratio first to second gear change
Depends on what is meant by crate engine. If you buy a GM crate engine you know exactly what you are getting...and its all new with warranty.
Do you really??? Did you know that they are Mexican with majority of the parts made outside the US or North America for that matter? I prefer to have engines built by a professional engine builder and I have full control of the parts that get installed.
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