I have a sbc, tunnel ram, single carb with a mild cam. I could not get my turbo 350 "fresh build" to go into drive or reverse, I know that the tunnel ram set up is a vacuum robber so I got the idea to block off my brake booster and the transmision worked fine. I have heard about vacuum boosters? How do these work? What should I look for? And the best question.....is there such a thing as a non racing affordable vacuum booster? Thanks
that is what I was thinking, I have run rams before with no issues with the auto trans. The booster is a single diaphram, brand new and i went through all of the connections, all hoses are new as well. Is there any canister set up better than the other?
yep...i had the same problem on my 1970 Dodge Charger race car,with a tunnel ram,vacuum canister solved it...
uh...the transmission only needs vacuum to tell it to shift early, in normal driving when don't have the pedal to the floor. It does not need vacuum to go into drive or reverse. something is wrong with the transmission? or maybe I don't understand what the problem is.
I think he is right. On another note, on my 30 Tudor with crossram 6 two setup, when I put it on I couldn't get it to shift, not enough vacuum, th350 that worker perfect previously. I took the vacuum modulater adjusting screw and backed it way out, didn't work, then took the screw out, didn't work, then talked to an old tranny rebuilder. He set my up with a spring that went on the shaft that is behind the modulator. That spring "helped" the modulator do its job. It worked perfect that way, the modulator is not using vacuum, it is sensing the vacuum. The spring made it do its job by making it react properly with less vacuum. Hope this may give some insight. I just went back to a normal fenton tri power with 2g carbs. And am using a stock modulator. And it is perfect.
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