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Another stocker falls, My 30 A Coupe becomes a HOT ROD

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by A Rodder, Sep 16, 2011.

  1. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Super cool, now I need some wires
     
  2. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Couple more
     

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  3. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    That's it for now
     

    Attached Files:

  4. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    In regards to my post above regarding my suspension.

    I used a superbell dropped axle, reverse eye spring, new perches, shackles, kingpins and spindles, tie rod and 3 3/4 drop steering arms.

    The tie rod comes down and rests on the wishbone when tightening it up. When the wheels are turned it gets tighter and needs even more clearance. I thought about grinding the top of the bones. Then after some inquiries realized that is a bad idea. Flipping the bar to bottom of the arms would still bit the bone. Using the 1 3/4 drop arms would not give enough clearance to the bottom of the crossmember.

    So I guess I just will have to bend the new arms up about a half inch.
     
  5. Buddy Palumbo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 3,872

    Buddy Palumbo
    Member

    looks good so far
     
  6. George G
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    George G
    Member

    I never saw that done before. good idea. Keeps everthing in place.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

     
  8. FourBangNCanuck
    Joined: May 4, 2011
    Posts: 166

    FourBangNCanuck
    Member
    from ON, Canada

    Wow the car looks awesome man!
    Still running the stock rear suspension setup?
    Planning on doing any bigs/littles to finish the look?
    4ich is perfect!
     
  9. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member


    Thank you,

    The rear spring is changed to a T spring with 2 leafs removed, like an idiot, I forgot to take a measurement from where it was before to now in regards to how much it lowered it. From best I can tell looking at reference points from pics, it is about 2 to 3 inches.

    It is VERY soft in the rear now, I think I may need to run shocks.

    I am going to change the wheel and tire setup. I had a line on some 16 inch wires but they have turned out to be unuseable.

    At this point I think I might just go steel wheels. I found a used set of 16 steel wheels, but three take the small cap and one takes the large cap, so that is still in the air.

    Tire wise I want to run firestone blackwalls.


    Maybe I can get some input here, I was thinking 7.50's in the rear and 6.00 or 6.50's up front. I don't want a real short tire up front. On my Tudor I have the 165r15's, and they are way to short for this build.

    What are you guys running?
     
  10. Hitchhiker
    Joined: May 1, 2008
    Posts: 8,507

    Hitchhiker
    Member

    I'm going for 5.50 x 16's and 7.50 x 16's.

    I've got a set of wires for you if you want.
     
  11. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member



    I am interested, PM sent, thanks Joe
     
  12. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    For those of you running the stock steering box, I want to drop the column a little. Can I just elongate the tothe mounting holes to allow the box to arc down?
     
  13. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Any thoughts on this?
     
  14. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    I am still curious in the column drop.

    Here is a couple pics as of now. The stance is killer and I will post some pics of how the back came down.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 539

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

  16. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    I researched and the ticket was supposedly the T spring out back. I put it in with one of the springs already missing from about a third of the way down forom the top, and I took out the one three up from the bottom. I did lower it about 2 inches. The problem is the rear would squat about 3 inches when I stood on it. So we added the long one back in and it stiffened it immensly, like it should have been.

    I think in a fendered car the t spring alone is enough, but not on my fenderless car. The "arc" of the wheel well is just to high for what I wanted.

    So keeping with my end goal of wanting to build another ch***is with 32 rails and a Y block, I really don't want to modify this ch***is setup to much that way after I swap the body over I have a good ch***is I can sell to someone else that is fairly stock.

    So rather than extending the frame and mounting the spring off the back of the axle housing or stepping up the frame, we decided to reshape the crossmember to carry a closer contour of the t spring and raise it two inches in the process.

    Jerry, did all the work on the crossmember and I think it is great cheap alternative. It is not quite finished yet, but you can see what the result will be.

    Joe
     

    Attached Files:

  17. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    It's definately came along way!
     

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  18. seatex
    Joined: Oct 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,671

    seatex
    Member

    Lookin' damn good!
     
  19. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Thanks man!
     
  20. Lupe.
    Joined: Oct 2, 2011
    Posts: 114

    Lupe.
    Member
    from TX

    I like that crossmember idea. I will have to remember that trick.
     
  21. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    The whole idea is to get it to a point where I can drive it this next summer with the banger motor that is in it. Get a shop built in the summer behind my house, build a 32 railed frame and use a 312 y block. Then I will sell the ch***is out from underneath it as a roller. I didn't want to modify it more than necessary to achieve the look I want.
     
  22. Lupe.
    Joined: Oct 2, 2011
    Posts: 114

    Lupe.
    Member
    from TX


    Sounds like a smart plan. You get to end up with the frame you wanted, the body work will already be done, plus meantime you get to drive it around.

    I'm gonna continue my build on my A frame for now. I might steal your idea and look for a 32 frame after my wallet recuperates from this build.

    Good luck!
     
  23. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    cool little car. it sits so nice.
     
  24. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    thank you!!!
     
  25. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,637

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  26. C0ra1l1
    Joined: Sep 24, 2010
    Posts: 250

    C0ra1l1
    Member

    Congrats for the chop and stance. Your step by step plans sound like you are gonna enjoy your Coupe.

    -Pasi
     
  27. converseandbowlingshirts
    Joined: Nov 10, 2006
    Posts: 556

    converseandbowlingshirts
    Member
    from Eugene, OR

    It's going to be one of the sweetest A's in town Joe!
     
  28. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Thanks James, long time since you have been on the board.
     
  29. monkeyspunk79
    Joined: Jan 2, 2011
    Posts: 553

    monkeyspunk79
    Member

    She looks great. I actually really dig it in the stocker colors as it sits. Looks like it came out of some guy's shop in 1950. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing the pictures!
     
  30. 5w30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2007
    Posts: 177

    5w30
    Member
    from oregon

    Sweet looking A and yes you have to chop these if you want a true hot-rod!
     

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